Battery Killer
 

I want to buy this 1997 Sebring Conv. but it seems to have some elec. problems. Apparently the battery drains in 2-3 days. I put the top down today and the windows rolled down at the same time. Is this normal? The car has had some water inside and one of the drivers side window switches acts faulty. The rest of the car is immaculate and well cared for. Does this year and model have known electrical problems? I am going to attempt to try to trace the culprit with a voltage meter and wiring diagram. They want $2000 for the car as they have taken it to 2 mechanics that could not find the problem. Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this. Thanks

RE: Battery Killer
 

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hey brother,i've seen this twice in conv.the power amp under the seat powers up all by itself.causing the battery to drain.i think because it get wet being under the seat(picture).unplug the amp and see what happens.let me know!https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.c...S/80a243aa.gif

RE: Battery Killer
 

The four windows will drop when you put the top up or down, it protects the windows from being hit during the process and allows the roof and window rubbers to line up without getting squat.

Mike

RE: Battery Killer
 

It was the Amp. I replaced it with a nice aftermarket and got the car for hella cheap. Thanks so much! I owe you one.

RE: Battery Killer
 

would this happen in the 2008 sebring hardtop convertible? just got the car and the wife loves it as its her daily driver, but the battery keeps dying. the process goes as follows:

everything is fine
the navigation / stereo head unit doesn't come on and everything else is fine
12 hours later everything is dead including the new battery that was just put in at the dealership

charge the battery back up and everything is fine, now just waiting for the nav system to go dark.

battery after charge reading 13.1volts, 12 hours later, 12.4volts and when started after the alt kicks in and its 14.65V

any ideas?????

thanks in advance.

RE: Battery Killer
 

My 08 I can leave alone for 3-4 days and it's fine, I don't think they have a seperate amp anymore

RE: Battery Killer
 

so far its fine. maybe the wife forgot to close the trunk good or something like that?????

anyone else got any ideas?

RE: Battery Killer
 

Go to Harbor Freight and spend $3 or $4 for a digital volt/ohm meter. Disconnect the battery and make sure everything is off. There will be a low current scale on the meter, measure the current by putting the probes between the disconnected battery wire and whatever you disconnected it from. With all lights off, no key, the current should be about 0.05 amps. That's to run the clock and the receiver for the key fob. Much more than that and you have a drain somewhere. Pull fuses one at a time until you stop the drain. The problem will be in the circuit for that fuse.
With the problem isolated to one circuit, take the car to the dealer, tell them what you have foundand have them fix it under warranty.

Well, wife loves her 2000 sebring jxi and wants to keep it. 130,000 orginal miles and now we, like several others have a car that "spins and won't start. Since the value of the car is now low, I am determined to find the electrical problem that mysteriously keeps our car in the garage. Does anyone have an electrical diagram lying around that might help enlighten me on a test procedure. I have done the typical parts changing but it still does not get enough fuel pressure. I do have some electrical experience with relays and circuits so I think I might understand the diagram. Thanks in advance for any help

The "electrical diagram" occupies about a hundred pages of the shop manual.

Low fuel pressure probably means a weak fuel pump or bad connections leading to it. The fuel pump is in the fuel tank. You must drop the tank to get to it.