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-   -   Driver Door Lock Switch Help (https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-200-sebring-14/driver-door-lock-switch-help-32140/)

soffenback 08-11-2020 03:21 PM

Driver Door Lock Switch Help
 
2005 Chrysler Sebring Sedan - Driver side door switch does not lock and unlock the driver door. Passenger side door lock switch works fine. All locks lock and unlock via the FOB. I went to the junk yard and got a new switch and replaced it. Same result. If the FOB unlocks and locks the driver side door lock, the actuator and any fuses should be good. Searching the web I have not come across this situation. Has anyone experienced this? Thanks.

dcotter0579 08-11-2020 09:34 PM

Check the wiring where it passes into the door. At that spot, it bends a little every time the door is opened and closed. Sometimes wires break from the flexing.

DaveLisaBerger 01-21-2021 08:37 PM


Originally Posted by soffenback (Post 115348)
2005 Chrysler Sebring Sedan - Driver side door switch does not lock and unlock the driver door. Passenger side door lock switch works fine. All locks lock and unlock via the FOB. I went to the junk yard and got a new switch and replaced it. Same result. If the FOB unlocks and locks the driver side door lock, the actuator and any fuses should be good. Searching the web I have not come across this situation. Has anyone experienced this? Thanks.

I have this EXACT same problem, I did the exact same thing as you and got nothing. I'm ALSO having it where my rear windows don't work either. Even my rear speakers don't work! I changed the radio to an after market radio and still the rear speakers don't work.
I have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring sedan LX

CaptainBlaze 05-05-2021 10:56 AM

Not sure about the speakers, but the wires in the door hinge boot break. It's pretty easy to find it, and a little more work to fix it. You can squeeze the boot back and will be able to quickly spot the broken wire, but you'll have to remove the door panel, speaker, unplug the harness and pull it back out the speaker hole to solder/repair it. I had the same issue last year when my electric actuator on the driver's door no longer worked. ... alas, now the electric lock/unlock switch is no longer working. I'm going to have to do it again.

Authority924 04-26-2022 09:28 AM

I've met the same issue, I used to switch on the kid lock, a small lock on the side of the door, but, I don't know why and how it blocked the door at all, so I had to use the left rear door to take out my kiddo. I called a locksmith to have a look at this issue, he said it was blocked because I did not switched it to the end. Actually I still do not know what I have not done correctly, but now it works

CaylinBr 04-27-2022 10:18 AM


Originally Posted by Authority924 (Post 121437)
I've met the same issue, I used to switch on the kid lock, a small lock on the side of the door, but, I don't know why and how it blocked the door at all, so I had to use the left rear door to take out my kiddo. I called a local locksmith in central london to have a look at this issue, he said it was blocked because I did not switched it to the end. Actually I still do not know what I have not done correctly, but now it works

So did the locksmith changed the locks or did he fixed the locks, this is important for me as I might have the same problem

Patska78 04-27-2022 05:54 PM


Originally Posted by CaptainBlaze (Post 118090)
Not sure about the speakers, but the wires in the door hinge boot break. It's pretty easy to find it, and a little more work to fix it. You can squeeze the boot back and will be able to quickly spot the broken wire, but you'll have to remove the door panel, speaker, unplug the harness and pull it back out the speaker hole to solder/repair it. I had the same issue last year when my electric actuator on the driver's door no longer worked. ... alas, now the electric lock/unlock switch is no longer working. I'm going to have to do it again.

I had wires broken on both the passenger and driver doors. I didn't remove all the stuff you say here though to repair the wires. I just pushed the rubber boot partially into the hole in the door, giving enough space to reconnect the wires(i used abiko-connectors & then wrapped electrical tape tightly around the wires). It was a bit annoying sure b/c of the small work space...but just wanted to say it's possible to repair w/o removing stuff other than pushing back the rubber boot. Everything's been working fine now for over a year. If they start breaking again, i think i'll just replace the whole wiring harness(i believe MoPar make those(?), saw 'em somewhere, maybe Rockauto..).


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