Fuel pump '07 2.4
 

I need to replace the fuel pump in my car. It has gotten progressively worse, and I'm done waiting on it to restart after stalling. Does anyone have any tips, such as the hose connectors and how to release them? I have done a fuel pump prior on a Dodge Ram, but it was 5 years ago.

Also, I don't have an owner manual suddenly, and I need to know which relay is the fuel pump relay in order to release the fuel pressure.

Thanks!

Hi,
My daughter has a 2005 sebring with 2.4. I don't know if the layout is the same as yours on the main engine compartment fuse box. In her owner's manual it indicates #28 to be the fuel pump relay. Have you taken the cover off and looked on the inside of the cover? Number 28 in her fuse box is the 1st from the drivers side on the firewall side. There are four slots and the 4th from the drivers side is empty.

Well, I've found the issue, and it isn't pretty. The connector from the car that connects to the pump was fried. One pin is stuck in the connector, or actually burned into it. So, now I need a connector as well as a pump.

BTW, if you need to replace your pump, don't drop the tank. I did, THEN found the access panel under the back seat. That was a DOH! moment.

Thanks for the reply beast39, I appreciate your input. I think the relay may end up being bad since the pump shorted out, but I'll just have to see after the new pump is in.

I ordered a wiring repair kit from the dealer, $48. If it's just some female connectors and some wire, I'm going to leave it there and buy the same items for less than $2 and do it myself. If it's the actual harness, I'll pay. Should work, you think?

You didn't say whether your car is a sedan or coupe. The coupe has an access panel under the rear seat, the sedan and conbertible do not, and on those models, you must drop the tank. Go to chrysler.com to get an owners manual. You may be able to download it for free.

I've run across a very few that have melted fuel pump/asd fuses in the PDC under the hood also. Look it over real good. If you had burned connectors, I would be suspicious of how many Amps the fuel pump is pulling. The relay itself isn't really a load. Keep an eye on that connector repair. Those repair kits are nice. The heat shrink they supply is DA BOMB, I love that stuff! Way better than the parts stores sell. Just use a flame to shrink it like a lighter, (I use a grill lighter) but be careful of the fuel tank! lol :eek:

Well, I can tell you I don't have a convertible. It's a four door model, and I did have an access panel. I had to do a similar repair on a Pontiac Aztek I had, there was a wiring harness in the middle of the car for the fuel pump where the wiring went inside the cabin from the bottom of the car. I just eliminated the harness, hard wired it with solder and shrink wrap. I used a heat gun. It smells like gas pretty bad in the garage right now already, good thing I quit smoking.

I wonder if the old pump is actually ok, and the wiring is the only problem.

wires dont burn up unless there is a load that is excessive on that wire aka corrosion bad part or faulty connection.

I thought about that chryslertech. I don't know which wire does what in the connector. I was doing a lot of cranking trying to start the car the last few times it stalled. I imagine it would run now if I patched it all together again (I won't). I just wonder if all that cranking burned the wire. I'm going to pick up the repair kit today and the pump's supposed to be here Tuesday.

Oops, sorry about that comment about the coupe, I was thinking yours was an '05.

Cranking should not affect the fuel pump wiring. The fuel pump is intended to run essentially continuously the whole time the car is driving, so long sessions of engine cranking should not affect it.

With that smell of gas I would not park it in the garage, though.

Yeah, makes sense about the pump wiring. I can't believe it would run in the condition it was in. I didn't expect to find that. I'll be sure to air the garage out a while before firing up the heat gun. :o

2006, Fuel pump 2.7 litre 6 cyl Sebring Touring
 

I had a fuel pump replaced at 55K - just died in trafic on day. The only thing I could think of I could have done wrong is added Fuel Line cleaner from a bottle. Maybe that burnt something in the pump. I dont know.
Anyway, dealer chaged me $1000 to change the pump!

I hear that you need to use a scan tool to de presureize the pum and clear the codes, when you install the pump, then you need to use the scasn tool to pressureize the pump. This is what I have read. Not sure if it really needs to be done using scan tools. Let me know what works.
GUS

I dont know what your dealer hourly rate is but where im at that job would run you $650 tops. Shop around next time (that goes for anything) NO, you do not need a scan tool for ANY part of that job. Depressurizing is not a big deal. Just hold a couple rags around the coupling when you disconnect it. The only priming procedure is to activate the fuel pump enough to get gas up to the rail. Usually 2 or 3 key cycles and waiting a few seconds each time will accomplish that. Same procedure if you ever run out of gas.

I have $110 in the pump change. If your pump was under the back seat, then that price is heavily excessive IMO. After I put the tank BACK ON after seeing the access panel, I changed it in about 15 minutes.

As far as depressurizing and pressurizing, I figure the pump going out and the car running out of gas depressurized everything. Building pressure I suppose is done when the pump finally gets fuel to the front. I did have an engine light come on along with a "gascap" show up on the odometer, but I had a line that was loose. I tightened it down and viola, the lights are off. No other issues so far.