I'm doing a brake job!
 

What I need to know is if I have to torque the wheels on a 1996 nonconveritible to anything specific or no?

RE: I'm doing a brake job!
 

WHEEL INSTALLATION To install the wheel, first position it properly on the mounting surface using the hub pilot as a guide. All wheel nuts should be lighly tightened before progressively tightening them in the proper sequence Tightening Wheel Nuts Then tighten wheel nuts in the proper to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.) Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts

RE: I'm doing a brake job!
 

Im sure Chrys tech response is accurate .. however, Ive never seen anyone torque lugs.

RE: I'm doing a brake job!
 

i agree with that

RE: I'm doing a brake job!
 

On steel rims it's not that big a problem but an aluminum rim improperly torqued will have problems. Since they usually require higher torque values than steel, the nuts will sometimes work loose. In all cases where a rim is "holding" a rotor in place, improper torque on the lug nuts can cause the rotor to have a slight wobble that becomes a warp after several applications of the brakes.

Unfortunately, most tire shops don't insist their employees do the proper thing, instead they rely on an impact wrench to generate sufficient torque. That's ok most of the time. But it becomes a problem in three circumstances I've experienced.

1. If the wrench is applied for a sufficient amount of time, the bolt WILL snap. And the shop won't tell you.

2. If you have a flat tire, it becomes difficult if not impossible to remove it with the OEM tool. It was designed around the torque specs......

3. If the shop compressor is turned off early and you rush in with an "emergency" flat repair, you WILL have loose lug nuts by the time you get where you're going. In my case, the wheel assembly (dual wheels) came off the truck and headed on down the interstate....

Torque right and insist the tire shop use a torque wrench is my preference. No torque wrench? No sale.