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-   -   Mystery 2.7 engine (https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-200-sebring-14/mystery-2-7-engine-19779/)

jeepdaddy65 06-05-2013 02:45 PM

Mystery 2.7 engine
 
Just bought a 04 Sebring Platinum Series Convertible. Love the car. Went to change the oil and filter, and the filter for an 04 is different than the one that was on it. It is a 2.7l but what year ? The filter that was on it was a Penzoil PZ19, I am curious as to what year the engine is an how I can find out so I get the right parts in the future. Thanks in advance.

dcotter0579 06-05-2013 07:55 PM

Look on the back (side facing the transmission) of the engine block, just under the left (closer to the front of the car) cylinder head. There should be an engine identification number stamped there. The first number is the last digit of the model year. (1 = 2001, etc.)

The PZ 19 filter is the correct filter for any 2.7L of that era. What filter did you buy?

jeepdaddy65 06-05-2013 08:50 PM

Thanks for the info. I ended up taking the old filter to the parts store to compare it with others. Found one that fit. It is a Mobil 1 filter M1-209, Don't know what it goes on but it works. The one the computer at the parts store had me get was a Fram TG16. Not even close to the one that was on the engine. Kinda wonder if someone did an engine swap at some point. Thanks again

dcotter0579 06-06-2013 12:49 PM

This makes no sense. If you go to the Pennzoil site and look up the filter for your car, you get the PZ-16, which is the one you found on your car.
If you go to the Mobil-1 site and look up the filter they recommend, you get the Fram PH-16 and TG-16, among others.
So what you seem to be telling us is that you removed a PZ-16 filter (the correct one) from the car but couldn't install a TG-16 (the correct filter) back on.
An engine swap doesn't explain anything since the same filter is used on this engine for several years, despite some minor electrical changes.

jeepdaddy65 06-06-2013 03:15 PM

The filter that was on the car was a PZ19 not the 16. The 16 in any brand filter was to big in diameter to fit. even though the car calls for the 16's filter, the 19 was small in diameter and long. the 16's were short and bigger in diameter. The filter that is listed for that year just wouldn't fit in the notch in the oil pan to screw on. I just ended up cross referencing the PZ19 filter and got a Mobil 1 filter that fit. Called previous owner to see if he at some time maybe changed out the motor

dcotter0579 06-06-2013 04:53 PM

I see that I mixed up the 6 and the 9. Must have had an attack of dyslexia there. The PZ 19 is the correct filter per the Pennzoil page. I don't know whether the oil filter manufacturers are necessarily consistent from brand to brand with their numbering systems. It's not surprising that cross-referencing the PZ 19 produced a filter that fit also. It should do that.
It does not appear that Chrysler changed the filter specification from year to year. Were you able to get the engine identification number? If you can get that complete number the dealer can probably verify that it belongs to your VIN.

jeepdaddy65 06-06-2013 05:08 PM

No problem, I appreciate all the help. I couldn't find the engine number on the block or heads. Ran the VIN# and all matched with what the title says. Called the local Chrysler dealer they couldn't help. I guess if the filter I have works all should be good. The coolant air bleeder that I ordered came in today and it looks like it's the right part, won't know until I take it apart. Just knowing that these cars had some cooling and sludging issues I thought maybe it had a different engine put in it. engine runs good and is strong so we'll see what happens down the road. Thanks again

dcotter0579 06-06-2013 08:53 PM

There are several threads on the forum here about replacing the coolant outlet manifold (bleeder as you call it). Search them out and read through them. You do NOT need to remove or loosen the upper intake manifold to replace that part, provided you have the correct tool.
Use the search term "gear wrench" to find a long discussion.

The best guy to talk to at the dealer is the guy behind the parts counter. Get to know him. Bring a box of donuts. Forget the telephone. The parts guy can look up your VIN and tell you lots of good stuff.

jeepdaddy65 06-06-2013 10:38 PM

Thanks again for the advice and info, talked to the guy I bought it from today he said car had 40,000 mi when he got it, and other than normal maintenance and replacing a ball joint and tie rod end never had any problems. It now has 89,000 and seems like a strong engine. Along with the coolant air bleeder, going to change the plugs this weekend, hopefully that goes better than the oil filter did. Thanks again

dcotter0579 06-07-2013 09:36 AM

There's discussion here about changing the plugs, too. The front plugs are easy. To pull the rear plugs, use a 3/8ths ratchet with a short extension, a u-joint, another short extension, and the socket (in that order). Pull the rubber edge guard off the cowl to give yourself a little extra room, and you'll be able to "roll" the socket contraption down into the hole to reach the plug.
When removing plugs fom aluminum heads, it's a good idea to just break them loose, then run them back in to hopefully knock off any carbon build-up from the threads. If you encounter resistance when threading them out, run them back in for the same reason. You don't want to try to drag a chunk of carbon through the threads or you'll risk damaging them.
Don't gap platinum plugs. They come gapped from the factory and a gapping tool can damage the platinum coating on the electrodes.

Have fun with it. Come back and tell us how it all went.

jeepdaddy65 06-09-2013 02:01 PM

Went to put the oil pressure switch on today. Guess I will have to live with the oil light on at idle, there is no way, without a lift that my big body can get at the shield let alone the sending unit. I'm to old and fat to be a contortionist. Oh well, on to the coolant air bleeder housing and spark plugs. This car while nice is a pain in the A** to work on, nothing done on this car is easy or goes smoothly. might want to sell it if this is going to be a never ending project

dcotter0579 06-10-2013 09:01 AM

Maybe you're a lot bigger than I am but I was able to get under there to pull off the oil pan which required removal of the crossunder exhaust pipe. I jacked it up in two stages and set my jackstands to their highest height. I remember thinking I could have done it with ramps which would have provided about the same room. I got my 68-year-old body under there though it ain't easy anymore.

Thundercraft 06-11-2013 12:26 AM


Originally Posted by jeepdaddy65 (Post 70899)
Went to put the oil pressure switch on today. Guess I will have to live with the oil light on at idle, there is no way, without a lift that my big body can get at the shield let alone the sending unit. I'm to old and fat to be a contortionist. Oh well, on to the coolant air bleeder housing and spark plugs. This car while nice is a pain in the A** to work on, nothing done on this car is easy or goes smoothly. might want to sell it if this is going to be a never ending project

I had the oil light on at idle - and the car only had about 40K miles (less than 76 thousand KM) on it when we bought it about 14 months ago. Although the engine didn't look like it had any sludge issues, there are some pretty tiny passages. I did an engine flush & then put in a top tier synthetic. The light still flickered for the next week or so and then my son took it on a 400 mile weekend jaunt and the light has never been an issue since. (yes, the light is still good - it is on with key on/engine off).

I get some weepage from the sending unit, but not near enough to make me crawl under there & replace the sending unit (and no drips on the driveway).

Your mileage may vary.

jeepdaddy65 06-11-2013 07:34 AM

I did the engine flush also, and put mobil 1 synthetic in the car. Hopefully that will resolve the oil light issue for me as well.

jeepdaddy65 06-13-2013 02:15 PM

I know this forum is for people who like sebrings, I am having so much trouble with mine I just want to sell it. Did the oil flush and put synthetic in the car, did the oil sending unit, replaced the coolant air bleeder and changed the plugs and serpentine belt. Figured all was well. Wrong, after driving it for 1 day, got up this morning and found a nice puddle of oil under the car. If anybody wants to buy this piece of S**t Please let me know. I am in Ohio, It is a 2004 Sebring Touring Convertible "Platinum Series", 89,000 miles.

dcotter0579 06-13-2013 03:28 PM

Golly, I never thought of it like that. Here, if I had just changed the oil and replaced the oil pressure switch and found a puddle of oil under the car, I would have figured I must have done something stupid, like cross threaded the drain plug or wrinkled the gasket on the filter. I never would have been bright enough to figure out that the obvious source of the problem is that the CAR is a POS.

That just opens up a whole world of possibilities....

jeepdaddy65 06-13-2013 03:35 PM

The leak is coming from the pan, not the filter or sending unit. Probably when I did the engine flush it got all the gunk and sludge from around the pan and gaskets cleaned out and then with a good synthetic found any little space to leak out of. But thanks for the input. Beautiful car. Platinum series came with a bunch of options, leather seats with suede inserts, full power. all the bells and whistles, got pics if you know anyone who is interested in the car

dcotter0579 06-13-2013 04:02 PM

There's a "for sale" forum here. Look down near the bottom of the home page. Post up the pics there.

jeepdaddy65 06-13-2013 10:07 PM

Thanks for the info will post it for sale, thanks again


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