Blew the engine (3.5L) on my 2005. What labor is involved to replace?
 

ya, so coming down the highway 68km from home I guess the minor coolant leak I had that I was going to fix today, turned into a massive coolant leak which blew all the coolant over the road, then overheated the engine faster than I could pull over. Next thing I know the RPMs jump, then fall, the engine dies and I roll off to the side of the road with the thickest cloud of black smoke I've ever seen.....covered the entire highway.

I check it out and oil has blown out both heads on the side, and filled my intake and airbox with a swimming pool of oil.

sooooooo.....she's dead Jim, and I'm broke as broke can be. I'm trying to get a rough idea of what kind of money I need to get together, but I don't know how many hours or what kind of labor is involved with removing and replacing the 3.5L.
I've been quoted about 13 hours to do the swap and anywhere from $1100 - $2500 just for labor, and I can pickup an engine from the wreckers for $700.

Has anyone removed one of these and can give me an idea of how difficult this job is? Can't work without the car, but can't fix the car without work....catch 22.

I'm also considering doing as much work as I can to make it easier (and less time) for a shop to do it.

Book time for engine replacement 12-14 hours is listed, varies by what needs to be swapped or "groomed" from engine to engine.
13 is a reasonable quote from a shop.

ya I was talking to a good shop so I didn't think they were bull****ting me or anything was just kind of curious myself because I was half considering picking up an engine crane and jack stands and taking a crack at it myself. I know I could do it, but it would definitely take me longer.

So I guess I just have to pony up the cash to get it done because it's really my only option short of throwing away a few thousand dollars for the car purchase, scrapping it and ending up with no vehicle and no money to buy another one.....again.

Man, the car is 13 or 14 years old. You gotta ask your self, is it worth it in terms of time, money and hassle? Engine trans plants on old cars rarely go well, Connectors fail and have to be sourced. Sensors don't match up. Software has to be sorted and that is a very expensive issue requiring multiple trips to the dealer who doesn't give a fig if it doesn't work. Time quotes from your mechanic go up in smoke and costs go through the roof.

If you can swing it, cut your losses and move on.

I purchased the car 2 months ago for $3100 total road ready.
Insurance doesn't cover this...no options there.
I have no money for another used vehicle and can't trade this one in as it is....no options there.
Scrap it for $200? ....no thank you.
I also bought it for my daughter to give to her next year, so I won't be getting rid of it.
Can't find another 300 for the price it'll cost to swap the engine.
Only car I can drive at the moment due to some legal troubles and an interlock.
Sourcing connectors? no problem, hit the wreckers and cut them off. I've done it tons of times.
the engine was VIN matched and is out of a 2006....same engine.

I have been in your situation myself with an 04 Intrepid.
I spent all of my available cash to get the car and two weeks later the crankshaft bearings failed. There was plenty of oil in it, no leaks.
The way I saw it, I had two options, bite the bullet and take a loan out for another cheaper car, or take the plunge and fix the Intrepid.
Getting another car could see me in the same situation all over again, whereas paying a shop to replace the engine had one huge advantage.
The advantage being a one year parts and labor warranty from the shop on the engine.
It cost me close to $4000.00 back then for everything, but the price of 3.5 H.O. engines at that time was pretty steep, even used.
I have since sold that car and upgraded to a 5.7 300C, but that car is still running fine for the current owner.

Oh, one last thing.
If you swap engines, and the replacement engine does not leak oil, switch it over immediately to synthetic oil.
The 3.5's last a lot longer with synthetic oil, and you can get the oil cheap at walmarts.
Regular price for a five quart jug of Mobil 1 synthetic is just over $28.00 and they carry the correct MoPar filter in stock.
Always use the MoPar filter also. I noticed with my old car that it would make a weird noise starting up with Fram and Purolator filters, from day one, but with a MoPar filter, it only made that noise when it was time for an oil change.

The aftermarket filters were either restricting the oil, or allowing it to drain back down.
Either way, that means poor lubrication on startup.

Okay Killavolt, If you can do the work yourself and you got the tools, go for it. It's the only way you will come out. Do keep us informed what you decide and keep us posted along the way. we are in your corner.:)

This "Guide" is for the 300M (99-04) and has helped folks in the past. Your 05 "C" is similar and shares the 3.5 engine platform (but not identical) so it may help in the process:
NOTE on SRT Time: Engine Swap book time of 13.9 does NOT Include additional work noted as "Stuff to Consider while the engine is out"
This is a work in process, I will update and correct as we go along.
Once completed I will move this to the KB.
For Ease of Use I have listed common Wrench/Socket sizes as opposed to actual fastener size. I am going from memory so there may be a few items to tweek. I will also go back and add images.
Prep steps:
Depressurize Fuel System by removing relay and running engine until it stalls.
Remove wipers 15mm, cowl T25, and strut tower brace 13mm.
Disconnect and isolate Ground Cable at stud 15mm
Remove air cleaner assembly and all connections, push pin, screw clamps, unplug IAT (02 &up)
Remove Jump post wires and Battery + connector, unplug O2 sensors and remove valve cover to body grounds
Disconnect Crank position sensor and remove the sensor from the trans housing (pass side) 10mm
Unlpug Block Heater 110v connection (if present)
Remove Radiator Upper Crossmember 13mm, 10mm, 7mm (headlights) 3 push pins for grill 2 more 10m and plastic rivets
for plastic air guides. Remove hood latch or cable to get crossmember out of the way
Remove drive belts, A/C and Alt/PS 15mm 13mm
Remove mounting bolts for A/C Compressor, unplug harness, (3)13mm and lay compressor aside (bolts stay with assy)
Raise and support vehicle (frame support recommended)
Remove the Structural Colllar oil pan to trans 15mm
Remove Torque Converter Bolts (4) 17 or 18mm ? Rotate engine to access all 4 Push the converter back slightly
Remove starter bolts from the trans side (3) 15mm
Remove lower trans to engine bolts pass side 17mm
Remove 4 15mm nuts from lower engine mount studs
Drain Coolant and Oil
Remove rad hoses, spring calmp, and Fan assembly, plug, 4 10mm (drivers side lower easy access from bottom)
Removal of Radiator and Front Fascia Optional but recommended : http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.ph ... eplacement
Remove Coolant tank, 2 10mm & hoses, & heater hoses at engine.
Unclip Fuel supply line at injector rail.
Remove bolt from throttle body to fuel rail bracket 8mm/T20
Remove throttle body bracket 10mm top, 2 13mm bottom, and the 13mm nuts on the other trans studs for harnesses
Remove Upper Intake/Plenum 10mm, 13mm unplug SRV/MTV/MAP Vac hoses, PCV, Throttle bracket disconnect cables and EGR clips as needed
Remove B+ wire from Fuse and Relay Center, unplug harness, and unplug additional harness at PCM
Remove Clamps at Cats Both sides 10mm nut (FSM says replace clamps, I have reused them)
Remove P/S pump mount bolts (3) access thru holes in pulley, 13mm and lay pump aside
Attach lifting device at eye near A/C compressor and plenum bracket drivers side.
Raise engine and Trans together, support trans with a jack & wood block under pan. Go just high enough to clear the mount studs from the frame. Be sure the load is evenly supported.
Reach in and grab the starter, remove the wires or strap it to the engine (harness will come with the engine)
Remove the last remaining engine to trans studs 17mm (or 18mm)
NOTE there are 2 Dowel Rings that align the engine and trans. Be sure all bolts are out and evenly move the engine forward from the trans. If you twist it to much you could crack the aluminum block or trans.

:Stuff to think about doing whie engine is out
Inspect and check Connecting Rod Bearings with Plastigauge, replace if indicated. See http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.ph ... d+bearings
Starter Contacts
Rear Cam cover Seals
Rear Crank Seal
Lower intake heater pipe oring.
Flush/Clean out plenum.
Inspect heater pipe above starter
Obviously do T/B W/P & Thermostat on "new" engine
Trans front seal
Inner Tie rod bushings
Stabilizer bar bushings

INSATLL RECOMMENDATIONS
I recommend removal of the LEFT/Drivers side Engine mount and bracket from engine. Remove the mount from the bracket, and the bracket from the block. This way during installation, once the engine and trans are mated, you can install the starter easily. Then install the mount and bracket, while the engine is still on the hoist, then lower into place.

Thanks guys, I'm not gonna tackle this one myself simply because it'll take me far longer than an experienced shop to do it, so I'm just putting in some overtime at work to build up some funds to have this done. I've got the manual and it's just 74 simple steps to an engine swap :D

Once it's in and working I'll be running royal purple oil and filter, I could see why fram would be a problem since they're literally like the worst filters ever made and honestly nobody should go anywhere near them.

So that's where I'm right now, I haven't had a chance to give the replacement engine a good once over with the overtime and it's been raining(no garage), but I kind of would like to swap or cleanup the balancer from what I can see so far.

I'm hoping I can get around to unwrapping it's saran wrap covering like so much leftover food and checking it out today.