Just installed the Hawk LTS brake pads on the Aspen and wow what a difference! Stops much better with less effort on the brake pedal! Money well spent!

 

Any set of new pads should give those results.

The only real differences in pads are 1) longevity and 2) dust.

 

I have installed several different pads and rotors over the years on all of my vehicles. Never have done a scientific study and measured the stopping distances but without a doubt the Hawk LTS pads grab much better and slow the vehicle down with a noticeable difference compared to other pads IU have installed!

 

I have to disagree with conversion02. Although longevity and dust will vary from pad to pad, the brake pad compound has a lot to do with how they perform. I have used them all. My 06 pacifica's rotors warped real bad after about 45K with semi metallic pads on it. I installed new cryo treated drilled rotors and standard ceramic pads. One year has passed and they are still true, but the braking performance of the pads has deteriorated. Switched to carbon pads for SUV's and there's a huge performance difference. I get more dust with drilled rotors but they are still true and I know stock rotors would have warped on me by now. I do a lot of highway driving in very hilly areas where I need to do a lot of 60MPH braking. So not only does pad compound make a difference, so does the choice of rotors.

 

The type of pad is implied.

My comment was specifically for semi-metallic vs semi-metallic for example.

Obviously, an organic Raybestos pad is going to be a bit worse in the stopping power department than a carbon fiber KVR pad. I use KVR carbon fiber pads with KVR cross drilled and slotted rotors on my Tbird, but it's not a daily driver. A) I don't want to destroy pads that cost $250 worth of pads, but they give me much better stopping power (especially stopping from 115 mph on the track). However, on my daily drivers (the Saab, specifically), I use Akebono pads and cross-drilled rotors and have loved that combo.

I'd personally rather put the additional money in rotors, if I cared about stopping power, as cheap rotors warp and rust and can destroy pads. Slotted rotors are a nice improvement, but really are designed to keep the crap off the pads by keeping a clean pad surface. However, they also keep the pad quite toasty, as there's always more fresh pad surface in contact with the rotor. Cross-drilled dissipate the heat better and provide a bit better stopping power (especially in wet weather). On any daily driver, I would probably steer clear of any slotted rotors and simply go with cross drilled.


For stats - since I've only really done the research on a Tbird, because that's what my main build is, I'll compare some stopping power...

Stock 10.8" system with single piston calipers = X

Stock 11.6" system with single piston calipers = X+ approx 3% (due to the heat factor)

Dual piston PBR calipers with stock 10.8" rotors = X+ approx 22%

Dual piston PBR calipers with 13" rotors = X+ approx 28%

Four piston AP Racing calipers with 13" rotors = X+ approx 40%

Needless to say, for improved stopping power, either get bigger rotors (more pad surface area), more pressure (not very likely), or go with more pistons on the caliper (extremely costly and the system pressure may not be able to support the 2, 4, or 6 pistons in each caliper). Pads have little impact on overall stopping power, but some pads are better than others and will improve stopping.

 

where is a good site to pick some of these hawk brake pads at?

 

Below is where I got mine:

http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/Search...00=210&Search=