Just got a 2007 Aspen Limited
 

Hello Group as the title says I'm the new owner of the 07 Aspen Ltd with the 5.7l Hemi. I have owned a few Explorer V8's, Navigators, Excursions and older Suburban 2500 and wanted something upscale and not as large as the last 2 vehicles and of course wanted to drive the iconic Hemi engine. I bought this truck unseen from auction in other state so I only know what was listed. There are no problems stated but I know it is a gamble nevertheless. This is my first Aspen and haven't done as much research as I should so I am asking for some of the known issues and weaknesses of this truck.

I plan on using it as my weekend transport and occasional medium trailer tower. I plan on occasionally towing cars on a 20' auto transport trailer. How does it tow? I have towed from this trailer to 40' 5th wheels with a F250 so have experience towing just wanted to know about this model handles trailers.

Thanks in Advance!

Welcome to the forum!

Thanks!!!
Is there a more active forum for Aspens? I just got it and have some more questions but no one responded to earlier post.

Happy Holidays

I wish there was, but I haven't found one. Best bet is Durango forums, as we are basically the cousin.

Problem is that the Aspen was only made 3 yrs. To add to that, they revamped the 4.7 and 5.7 in 2009, so you have different variations of each engine in those 3 years too.

Hey thanks!
So these are basically identical drivelines? I knew they were related but didn't know how much they share. In reading newcartestdrive.com and comparing the features of the Durango vs the Aspen they seem to have a lot of similiarites.

Correct, identical drivelines.

I think the 4.7 changed in 2008 and I know the 5.7 changed in 2009.

Welcome to the forum. Sorry for the delayed response. Been busy. Sadly, as Rawyzf mentioned, their is not a lot of talk about the Aspen. I even found a Facebook page for an Aspen club and rarely see any post on it. The Durango forums are your best bet as most of the problems are the same.

As far as some of the "Known" issues, I can tell you the ones that I am aware of and/or have experienced along with what I know for fixing them.

1) Fuel spit back when fueling - Many have experienced this as well as myself. Known fix is a service bulletin to replace fuel filler neck. Only covers 07-08 models from what I've heard. SB # 14-001-12
2) Check fuel cap message when cap is on and tight (Code P0455 - P0457) - This is not a fuel cap issue. It is the ESIM (EVAP leak detect switch). Simple DIY fix at charcoal canister. About $35 and takes about 10-15 minutes tops to replace.
3) MDS Solenoids going out (4) total on vehicle (multiple codes P344x) - When this happens, fuel saver mode will not work and check engine light will appear. Will not pass inspection. Make sure you use the recommended oil weight. Part alone is about $100 online (was around $40). Requires removal of intake manifold to replace. Best to do all 4 at the same time if you already have it taken off. I still need to do this myself. Currently have the MDS disabled with a DiabloSport tuner.
4) Engine stalling after fueling when hot (No codes) - From my research on this (due to me having the issue), it is due to the On-board Refueling Vapor Recovery Valve which is part of the fuel tank. Meaning the whole tank needs to be replaced (about $800 for the tank alone). As much as I have found reported on this to NHTSA, I'm surprised Chrysler doesn't have a service bulletin or recall on this one.
5) Airbags (drivers & passengers) - This is part of the Takata recall. Check your VIN to make sure both of these have been replaced.

That's all I can think of at the moment.

As far as towing. The most I have towed is around 2000-2500 lbs with a small 10' flatbed (was an old motorcycle trailer). Towed without any issues. Haven't gone any bigger than that. Although I was looking at at getting a 25'+ cargo trailer at one time but no longer need it so I guess I'll never get to see how that goes.

Hope this helps.

I severely hate issue #1 and dont get why it's not covered on 2009. I have to listen for the gas to start to fill the neck and quickly stop the pump, or it overflows a little.

Yeah, it makes no sense to me either. If the issue is still there on the 09's, it should still be covered.

Wow! I never heard about any of those those although the fuel filler neck issues I have had on Ford Fusion also with the low evap leak.

The issues I have discovered now are the hub bearing was bad. I don't know how the previous owner drove it with that loud rubbing sound. Had dealership replace it but afterwards saw on Moog website that the factory one can be prone to water intrusion which contributes to early failure. If I had known that I would have had an Indy shop install Moog but if they were original and lasted 137k I should be okay for awhile.

Front suspension was sloppy and made noise that stabilizer bar bushings and end links cured but that I would considered normal maintenance.

Suspension seems spongy which is better than the harsh SUV ride I have experienced in other SUV's but I believe the shocks need replacing so I will search but I believe most people like Bilsteins, I just want to see for this chassis are they still recommended.

Tapping noise at startup (1 min) which because of the bad weather can't look to see if manifold leak or the notorious "Hemi" tap that I see on other non Aspen Hemi forums. Some say correct oil weight and quality filter will cure it. I know the exhaust studs break off on the 06+ Explorers 4.6l and the manifolds warp is a common issue on them but those are tight compartments and repairs are so expensive most people get used to it. I had dealership quote 19 hours to remove engine to replace them but found an Indy shop that charged 4 hrs a side to squeeze in there to replace them with my stainless steels replacement studs and Dorman exhaust manifolds.

I now just discovered a quirk in the rear heat that I will create a thread for. It blows cold overhead for a short while then warms up the air stops flowing from overhead ducts then goes through lower side duct by the passenger rear door.

I never had a full time 4wd vehicle so I am curious how it operates and if any weak points or maintenance issues with it.

I am surprised it has a neutral transfer case selection which might come in handy if I decide to tow this behind a motorhome later.

Thank you both

I have a broken off manifold bolt, drivers side, furthest one back. Very common in these. It ticks and then goes away after a min like you said.

I tried to get it out, but ran out of time. I'll try again someday when I am bored.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.chr...366928c9e4.jpg

Sounds like previous owner didn't pay attention to maintenance.


I've noticed slight sloppiness in mine as well. I attribute it to being an SUV. Nothing like my Honda Accord. Any slight movement in the steering wheel would put you in the next lane on that one. Of course, I have heard reports of issues with Dodge/Chrysler front ends. Not only on the Aspen/Durango, but their pickups as well. Since you've already replaced the bushings and end links, you should be good to go for a while. As far as shocks, general consensuses I've read is Bilsteins for stiffer/towing purposes and Monroe Sensa tracks for smooth/non towing conditions.


Haven't ran across either of these yet. Thankfully.


The full time AWD comes in handy in the snow and ice. When I took mine up to Colorado during the winter, I tried several times to bring the rear end around by punching the throttle while turning. Couldn't do it. Now trying to stop suddenly would slide of course. LOL. Biggest issue is the fuel economy. Since you can't turn it off, it burns more fuel than what it would if you could run in 2wd.

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I couldn't find any info on the awd system in the factory brochure how does it work?
Is it electronically applied or always on?
What does the 4wd lock detent do on the 4wd knob?
Also I haven't tried yet but to get into low do I have to start with transmission in Neutral then switch to 4wd lo?

Thanks

Thanks for the clear picture. We just had our first snow storm so it will be awhile before I am able to inspect mines.

Do you plan on using an extractor or welding a nut to it and using a wrench/socket to remove it?

Information for the transfer case is found on page 280 in the owners manual. If you do not have the owners manual, let me know and I'll see if I can upload the electronic PDF file I have on it.

It depends on which transfer case you have (NV140 or NV244). The NV140 is a single speed (4 HI only) which provides full-time 4wd. The transfer case divides power with about 48% to the front and 52% to the rear.

The NV244 is an electric-shift case controlled by the switch on the dash. It provides 4 modes (normal 4wd hi range, 4wd lock, 4wd low and neutral. Under normal 4wd hi range, the transfer case allows the front and rear to rotate at different speeds based on road conditions which eliminates driveline binding and component wear. 4WD lock and 4wd low, locks both the front and rear together.

As for shifting to neutral: Page 361 of manual
1) bring vehicle to a complete stop
2) shut off engine
3) turn ignition key to on position without starting engine.
4) press brake pedal
5) shift transmission to neutral
6) use ball point pin or similar object to press the NEUTRAL button for four seconds
7) after shift is completed and the NEUTRAL light comes on the dash, release the NEUTRAL button
8) start the engine
9) shift transmission in to REVERSE
10) release brake pedal for five seconds and ensure that their is no vehicle movement
11) repeat steps 9 & 10 with transmission in drive
12) turn ignition key to the unlocked off position
13) shift transmission into park
14) attach vehicle to tow vehicle with tow bar.

To turn off NEUTRAL tow:
1) bring vehicle to complete stop
2) shut off engine
3) turn key on without engine start
4) press brake pedal
5) shift transmission to NEUTRAL
6) using ballpoint pen or similar object, press the NEUTRAL button for one second
7) after the NEUTRAL indicator light turns off, release the NEUTRAL button
8) after the NEUTRAL button has been released, the transfer case will shift to the position identified by the selector switch
9) shift the transmission into park
10) start the engine
11) shift the transmission into drive

I'm going to try to extract it with a left bit and extractor. I'm trying to avoid taking the full maninfold off. If I do have to take the manifold off, the bolt will be easy to get out though, as it almost flush with the manifold, meaning it's sticking out about 1/4". I can't get a nut on there, as it sits right now.