'05 w/3.5L Currently in a "limp" mode, possible timing issue?
#1
'05 w/3.5L Currently in a "limp" mode, possible timing issue?
So here is what I know. Friend that has been borrowing it called one day and said it was running rough, no power, sounded bad and died.
I go to where he parked it and it's got what seems like a miss that wants to tear the engine out of the car after 2500/3000 rpm and also any rpm's over that mark the gas pedal was non responsive. Ran codes and on top of some O2's and an EGR that I knew about, I got a cam position sensor code.
**Replaced the cam sensor and issue is still there and with these codes p0131 (O2's), p0340, p0344 and p0660. The p034X are camshaft position sensor issues, and but the other one is Intake Manifold Tuning (IMT) Valve Solenoid Control Circuit and this has me stumped.
So I'm at a lost, my worst of worst is it's jumped time some how and as such doesn't fully know where the cam/crank are in relation to each thus the wicked miss. I do know we had the timing belt down around 142k miles and it currently has 223k miles. So it's close to the 100k interval.
Anybody got some suggestions. I need to get a volt meter that will read frequency or diagnostic reader to see live results so I can see what is actually happening at the sensor.
I go to where he parked it and it's got what seems like a miss that wants to tear the engine out of the car after 2500/3000 rpm and also any rpm's over that mark the gas pedal was non responsive. Ran codes and on top of some O2's and an EGR that I knew about, I got a cam position sensor code.
**Replaced the cam sensor and issue is still there and with these codes p0131 (O2's), p0340, p0344 and p0660. The p034X are camshaft position sensor issues, and but the other one is Intake Manifold Tuning (IMT) Valve Solenoid Control Circuit and this has me stumped.
So I'm at a lost, my worst of worst is it's jumped time some how and as such doesn't fully know where the cam/crank are in relation to each thus the wicked miss. I do know we had the timing belt down around 142k miles and it currently has 223k miles. So it's close to the 100k interval.
Anybody got some suggestions. I need to get a volt meter that will read frequency or diagnostic reader to see live results so I can see what is actually happening at the sensor.
#3
Thanks for the info on the code pointing towards that tuning valve. I had a buddy that works on cars and finally got back to me saying to check the same thing. Must be slipping in my old age as I had no clue the 3.5's had that tuning valve/flap in the intake.
#4
I have a follow up question for you.
On what I would call the front of the engine ( where timing belt/water pump is located) right hand front side of the intake is the tuning actuator? Then on the rear of intake is a rod that crosses over and controls the left side ( firewall side) tuning valves correct?
That rod and actuator(?) is real stiff and if pulled "open?" will not fully return to its seated position without assistance.
Could this mean there is not an issue with either actuator and maybe more of an issue with buildup in the intake thus causing it to stick like the throttlebody does at times and a good seafoam cleaning will work?
On what I would call the front of the engine ( where timing belt/water pump is located) right hand front side of the intake is the tuning actuator? Then on the rear of intake is a rod that crosses over and controls the left side ( firewall side) tuning valves correct?
That rod and actuator(?) is real stiff and if pulled "open?" will not fully return to its seated position without assistance.
Could this mean there is not an issue with either actuator and maybe more of an issue with buildup in the intake thus causing it to stick like the throttlebody does at times and a good seafoam cleaning will work?
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