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-   -   Flickering lights on our Pacifica (https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-pacifica-15/flickering-lights-our-pacifica-5302/)

mmckrakin 02-26-2015 07:11 PM


Originally Posted by brown53098 (Post 81584)
I need HELP!!*
The symptoms:
Wiper relay 57 clicking non stop,*
ABS/TC/BK lights on are illuminated,*
Engine code light is on...code U110C
Depressing the brake will not release the shifter interlock. What is NOT Working: Radio, A/C, DVD, power (lighter) outlet, front wipers, headlights, fog lights.

First sign was when I tried to wash my back window. When I arrived back home I started researching online. I came across a post on another forum but it didn't say what the fix was. The crazy thing that post suggested was removing fuse #4 which is the "bcm 1 feed". After removing that fuse and turning my headlights on and turning the switch for the interior lights on, all of my warning lights go off, I can shift out of park, my power windows work, my radio works. What doesn't work is the front wipers, high beams and fog lights. My driver's side headlight is also out.
The code reader will only give me a U110C code.
I took it to my local shop and they wouldn't even look at it.
Any direction or help would be MUCH appreciated.

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x2 ... did extensive chassis ground stud and wire terminal cleaning ( the three spot welded ground studs under the batt tray with all associated wires ),did the $10,000,000 ramsey pos lead jumper wire fix to the relay block power feed, cleaned the engine ground strap on front valve cover, cleaned terminals on batt, pretty much have cleaned and inspected every ground and feed (off batt) i can see, no luck. Did some voltage checking on the ticking relay, shows 7.2 v approx at the feed post, i dont think the relay itself is at fault, i still believe theres a ground issue somewhere that wouls cause body control module issues tho my scanner is giving multiple,but inconsistant dtc's, anywhere between 2 to upwards of 94 codes. Clearing these has no effect on symptons at all and the codes return in some fashion or another immediatly leading me to believe they are all erroneous . If anyone has identified the route cause of the above quoted symptoms id say he/she is in for a medal or at least to be lumped into a similar catagory as ranzy

Shutout 09-19-2015 08:08 PM

Late reply, but what I ended up doing:

At one of the ground studs (G103), there is a ring terminal that has about 7 wires in it. That terminal was corroded so none of those wires were getting ground. G103 is one of the 3 ground points under the battery holder. It is the lowest one and the one closest to the front of the vehicle.

To check, you need a multimeter. Remove the ring terminal from the ground post. Set your meter to ohms. Touch one end of the probe to the ring terminal, and the other end to the negative post on the battery. You should get 0.1 or so. If you get a HIGH NUMBER or INFINITY (sometimes shown as 1), then it's not a good connection. You will have to re-cut, strip, crimp, and then connect all the wires in new ring terminals and re-connect to the ground lug.

For those of you who want to do a step by step check starting at the IPM and who have some general electrical knowledge. This is a good video:

These are the ground points in the IPM I had to check:
c1 black/dark green pin 6
c7 black/orange pin 8
c5 black/yellow pin 14
c4 grey/black pin 12

c5 black/yellow pin 8 bad ground ... which connected to G103.

busboy4 10-09-2015 05:05 PM

Thanks Shutout,

I was just working an '04 with the "classic symptoms". I went first with the power lead "bypass" to the IPM but no luck. I too found that the 7 wire bundle that attaches to the forward-most, lowest ground stud under the battery tray had extensive corrosion and most if none of the 7 wires had good connectivity. I pulled (easily) the OEM connector and re-stripped and crimped the wires to new connectors - I did one with 4 wires and one with 3. There is not much room to work and not much slack in the wires but enough to get the job done. Worked like a champ.

Thanks for the lead

Shutout 10-09-2015 05:22 PM


Originally Posted by busboy4 (Post 91900)
Thanks Shutout,

I was just working an '04 with the "classic symptoms". I went first with the power lead "bypass" to the IPM but no luck. I too found that the 7 wire bundle that attaches to the forward-most, lowest ground stud under the battery tray had extensive corrosion and most if none of the 7 wires had good connectivity. I pulled (easily) the OEM connector and re-stripped and crimped the wires to new connectors - I did one with 4 wires and one with 3. There is not much room to work and not much slack in the wires but enough to get the job done. Worked like a champ.

Thanks for the lead

Glad I posted and glad it helped.

One other thing I noticed was that even after all this my driver side headlight would not work (even with a good bulb). F or whatever reason the ground for the headlight is clumped in another ring terminal of about 8 wires. This terminal is 2 posts away from the other one, maybe 6 inches away. Same issue with corrosion.

busboy4 10-09-2015 05:43 PM


Originally Posted by Shutout (Post 91901)
Glad I posted and glad it helped.

One other thing I noticed was that even after all this my driver side headlight would not work (even with a good bulb). F or whatever reason the ground for the headlight is clumped in another ring terminal of about 8 wires. This terminal is 2 posts away from the other one, maybe 6 inches away. Same issue with corrosion.

Interesting you mention that. The Vehicle in question had an "added ground" behind the left headlight that was/is "sistered" into the OEM ground and to a sheet metal screw added into the sheet metal behind the headlight.

I used a "piercing probe tester" to probe each of the wires in the bundle you address. All had solid ground so for now I let it alone. But I'll start there next time if necessary.

Thanks

Mssytasha 12-05-2015 05:50 PM

Are you able to possibly send me these pics? I'm not able to view them for some reason. Thank you very much :)

johnnyproperty 04-05-2016 10:35 PM

applied the 'Ranzy' fix but...
 
2 Attachment(s)
2004 Pacifica

Still have the flickering after the Ranzy fix but it does seem to simmer down sooner. At startup the random light show begins immediately but it does stop after about a minute. So we will try with another cable from the positive terminal to the fuse box.

QUESTION - noticed the disconnected wire in proximity of fuse box and wondering if it was already disconnected (I think so) but am wondering if anyone can identify the wire and if it should be reconnected and how to determine, if so, which is positive and negative in the plastic connector.

Two pictures attached.

Barbara 2 04-11-2016 08:06 PM

Looking at your first pic and compared it to our '04 Pac we don't have nearly that many wires in a loom and the one we have looks like it goes into the firewall and maybe to the wiper motors. Someone else should be able to help. *BW*

johnnyproperty 04-11-2016 09:56 PM

Thank-you. I think it might be to do with remote starter. I connected the wire and the remote now does not work LOL. Will disconnect and see if the remote works.

johnnyproperty 04-11-2016 09:59 PM

Regarding flickering (Ranzy fix), I detached, cleaned and reattached the ground wires under the battery tray. Did not redo the Ranzy fix which we did first, left the cable that we attached the first time in place. No flickering!


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