OK thanks for that...I have factory repair manuals for 06 and 08 pacifica's and have worked on many issues involving the trans, engine, drive train. Can't say I've ever seen a reference to a "transmission controller". There is no reference to such an item in the manuals. It is always referred to as the Powertrain Control Module. There is however a reference to a "transmission control system" which consists of sensors, relays, solenoids and electronically controlled clutch but the until controlling trans performance is the PCM. There is no such thing as a transmission control module per say.

 

+1 for OEM Hydraulic mounts, Expensive but worth it considering the labor it takes to change out Anchor mounts every few months.
and +1 for the ground issue. I changed the upper motor mount and an intermittently working horn issue seemed to resolve itself. I just looked at the same ground strap in the illustration above since my 62TE went into limp home mode last night, and it's corroded at the chassis side. I'm into car audio and have plenty of 1/0 wire, so I'll whip up a new ground strap tomorrow. Thanks Crystal017 for sharing your experience... Certainly aligns with my own at the moment.

 

My adventure with Chrysler Pacifica touring 3.5 liter Engine

(How I fixed Mine to run like new)



Parts I Replaced In my quest to fix the car

Battery

Terminals

Transmission control module

Alternator

Power steering pump

Pulley’s

Serpentine belt

Transmission Input speed sensor

Transmission Output speed sensor

Crankshaft Position sensor

Oxygen sensors

Gas cap

Air intake sensor

Idle air control

Throttle position sensor

Cleaned the throttle body

Transmission fluid and gaskets



My Pacifica Like many others decided one day to drop into Limp/ Fail Safe Mode and started throwing an entire Range of Trouble Codes to Include.



02 sensor failure

Loose gas cap

Evap system Leak

Transmission control system

Transmission Control Module

Crankshaft Position sensor

Battery failure



The cars behavior was just baffling I am so careful to keep up the routine maintenance the RPM’S racing almost redlining and the speedometer not wanting to go above 40. It took me just under two weeks and a very huge part of my savings to locate the actual problem and it was nothing the trouble codes ever threw.

I’m not a mechanic so I spent a whole bunch of time on forums and self help sites trying to locate the reason’s my car decided to all of the sudden shut itself down and wasn’t responding to the new parts like it should if those things were really the problem. I was determined and the cost for parts alone was so much that I was my own mechanic and was certain I had done everything very carefully and correctly.

The Gas Cap Light and the Evap system leak

After replacing the parts indicated by the trouble codes the problems still existed so I went back carefully over everything and found the air intake housing was not properly seated in its place. I had some work done and the housing had to be removed to get to it when it was put back on the holes on the bottom of the housing were haphazardly matched up and shoved down onto the frame the seals on those holes are there for a reason they prevent extra air from getting into the engine and they caused a headache and false gas cap light and Evap systems trouble codes. Simple easy solution to one of the problems.



ALL of the other trouble codes

I replaced everything indicated by the codes and when that did not clear the trouble codes I reasoned that it must be in the parts that control the parts so I started into the wiring the sensors and all of that nonsense until pretty much everything under my hood is brand new. Should have fixed the trouble but it did not. So maybe my Transmission really had gone out and it was time to scrap the car but I couldn’t shake the feeling I was missing something had to be missing something but I already replaced everything so what could it be.

I broke the actuator clips in the driver window so I was researching what to do about that since my mechanic skills had already proven so wonderful and I ran across something about the Fuse that controls the windows.

I went out and started looking in the fuse box and found one of the fuses to be named the EATX fuse curiosity got me it’s a tiny little 20 amp fuse. What is an EATX and what is the reason for the fuse?

EATX = ELECTRONIC AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE SOLENOID and that is the TRANSMISSION very expensive repair may as well scrap the car when It goes out it puts the car into limp/safe mode and your entire car will throw code because the computer can not register where the problem is really coming from just that everything is shutting down for seemingly no reason. The transmission has not failed the little nothing fuse blew.

I replaced the fuse and the car instantly started behaving better the check engine light was still on so I had the codes cleared and read again it was the Transmission Input speed sensor causing the light still replaced that and the car drives like new from the showroom floor no more check engine light no more problem.

None of the codes, advice from mechanic friends or thousands of forums I poured over looking for an answer would lead one to look at the FUSES plenty of other things mentioned all of them extremely expensive solutions and stuff that in all honesty I just could not afford. I was ready to call it quits and accept that I would have to pony up the money for a new car or a new transmission when I stumbled onto this solution