Timing Belt Replacement
 

I'm going to be replacing the timing belt & water pump in my '05 Pacifica 3.5L.
Looking for tips, advice and things to look out for during R&I. Pictures would be helpful as well. Thanks.

I could be wrong, but Pacificas are equipped with timing chains.

3.5 is a belt

found this if it helps

https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/...ht=timing+belt

good info
 

Thanks for the link, I replaced it just fine. Took a couple tries to get the belt on with all my marks lined up. And I DID NOT loosen the rocker arms. simply lined up marks on cams to back cover marks and added white paint marker to the marks to make easily visible, marked the old belt with white paint marker at the cam marks and crankshaft mark. Transferred marks to new timing belt to ensure exact same number of teeth in between.Reinstalled making all marks line up EXACTLY as before. Had issue with the RH cam wanting to move off mark slightly. The cam also turned a 1/4 turn once making a clunk. Just used a breaker bar and socket to return to original position. Taking care NOT to make a full revolution with it, but to rotate opposite the way it just turned. And DO NOT stick your fingers in the cam gear to try and hold it. It won't work and it hurts when it moves ( got lucky and all fingers attached). Took the time to replace water pump as well while in there. removed air box, headlight and wheel well shroud for easier access and unmounted power steer pump and reservoir no lines disconnected just move aside gently (will be some resistance)

now to find that broken motor mount and replace it

I'm about to do the timing belt on my 04. I have some dumb questions regarding the procedure, I've never done a timing belt before. Mileage is at 107k.

1) Do I need to remove any of the serpentine belt pulleys prior to removing the cover that accesses the timing belt?

2) I believe the water pump is located behind this cover as well so I bought one thinking that I should replace it while I am in there since it's original and I only want to access this area once.

The only info on the forum about changing the timing belt seems to start after you have removed the cover. I just want to make sure I do this part correctly as this is my wifes daily driver so once I start tearing into it I need to finish it the same day, need to avoid hiccups.

Any other tips?

Thanks

buy a service manual it will walk u through it

I can't find a manual for the Pacifica, Haynes makes one for every Chrysler except the Pacifica. Got any links to what you are talking about? Thanks!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-...item27b78ba411

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-...item3a61955bc6

all over ebay

Thanks I'll check those out.

I've heard that the actual shop manuals require a DRBIII scan tool for diagnostics, which of course I dont have. Is it the Service Manual that has information in it on how to complete certain jobs, like the timing belt?

I also found the online version of Chiltons has a Pacifica manual, I was thinking of subscribing to theirs. Has anyone used this?
http://www.chiltondiy.com/default.aspx

a manual is a book not a computer

http://www.alldata.com/ This is an awesome online resource I use with step by step guides. retailmenot.com has discount codes. Yes had to remove all but the far aft pulley. will need a puller for the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) timing belt and water pump is behind the plate the pulley's attach to. Always a great idea to replace the water pump while in there good insurance. no sense in going through all the hassle to do it later on.

also ended up replacing the accessory belt pulley's. pulling them off disturbed the bearings and they started groaning something awful. they were like 5 bucks a piece at autozone

I was wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks to keeping the marks lined up and the camshafts from moving when replacing timing belt on pacifica. I did as the alldata manual stated(loosened the rocker arms) and everytime I started to screw in the the tensioner and when it was tight the left(nearest cab) moved a tooth. I tried everything from advancing one tooth to tighening the rocker arms and after six hrs I gave up and had it towed to a garage. I have worked on my own vehicles for 16yrs or more and have done all kinds of repairs including replacing an engine and never have had to do this? any suggestions of what I was doing wrong?

Hi, i own a 300 touring... how did you locked the crankshaft pulley to remove the bolt?
Is 3.5l a freewheel engine? did you needed specific tools for chrysler 3.5 engine?
thanks!

You'll need a vice to compress the tensioner prior to re-installing and a pin to lock it in place until you get it mounted. Something about the thickness of a paperclip but more rigid. I don't remove the harmonic balancer, but some people do. It's a low profile puller like this one >>http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...DAMPER-PULLER/ Other than that, it's pretty straighforward. Go ahead and do the water pump while you're in there.




TIMING BELT

CAUTION: If camshafts have moved from the timing marks, always rotate camshaft towards the direction nearest to the timing marks (DO NOT TURN CAMSHAFTS A FULL REVOLUTION OR DAMAGE to valves and/or pistons could result).

https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.c...S/81d1d39d.gif
1 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT GEAR ALIGNMENT MARK 7 - LEFT CAMSHAFT GEAR 2 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT GEAR 8 - LEFT CAMSHAFT GEAR ALIGNMENT MARK 3 - CYLINDER HEAD TO INNER TIMING BELT COVER BOLTS - RIGHT 9 - CRANKSHAFT GEAR ALIGNMENT MARK 4 - TIMING BELT 10 - CRANKSHAFT GEAR 5 - WATER PUMP PULLEY 11 - TIMING BELT TENSIONER PULLEY 6 - CYLINDER HEAD TO INNER TIMING BELT COVER BOLTS - LEFT 12 - TIMING BELT TENSIONER

1. Align the crankshaft sprocket (10) (TIMING GEAR ALIGNMENT) with the TDC mark (9) on oil pump cover.
2. Align the camshaft sprockets (2, 7) timing reference marks (1, 8) with the marks on the rear cover.
3. Install the timing belt starting at the crankshaft sprocket (10) going in a counterclockwise direction. Install the belt around the last sprocket. Maintain tension on the belt as it is positioned around the tensioner pulley (11). NOTE: If the camshaft gears have been removed it is only necessary to have the camshaft gear retaining bolts installed to a snug torque at this time.
4. Holding the tensioner pulley (11) against the belt, install the tensioner into the housing and tighten to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.). Each camshaft sprocket mark should remain aligned the cover marks.
5. When tensioner is in place pull retaining pin to allow the tensioner to extend to the pulley bracket.
6. Rotate crankshaft sprocket 2 revolutions and check the timing marks on the camshafts and crankshaft. The marks should line up within their respective locations. If marks do not line up, repeat procedure. NOTE: If camshaft gears have been removed and timing is correct, counterhold and tighten the camshaft gears to final torque specification(<A href="https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.com/service/mds2002/Dispatcher?SERVICE=SoftLink&SoftLinkId=919025420"> Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION) .
7. Install the front timing belt cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
8. Tighten the rocker arm assemblies and install the cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSY - INSTALLATION).
9. Connect negative battery cable.

Thanks! where can i find technical schemes such yours?

As a customer, you can subscribe to Alldata online. I like it the best of all the aftermarket products out there.

Wow alldata is wonderful... I also need a good DIY manual to replace automatic transmission fluid on 300 chrysler... i never found a good manual, is there a particular procedure or is simple? have you got a link to a manual or video?
Plase note that i'm from italy (milano) so maybe my english it's not so good...
Perhaps here in italy mechanics are not concerned to repair USA cars, maybe they feel a risk to damage the car... If i go to a chrysler dealer service it's really really expensive... Fortunately i like motors and DIY! so it'a a pleasure to contact experts in USA!
I purchased my 300 touring in Miami and imported it in italy... done all myself.. i really like usa cars.

We're already starting to work on Fiat cars and Fiat engines in Dodge products. nI think the Multiair is going to be a big hit with fuel economy. I suspect your dealers there will be doing the same soon also with a little Chrysler stuff. I know some Chryslers are getting re-badged as other brand names.

What exctly do you need to know about the transmission? Which one do you have?

Timing Marks Way Off need help
 

2004 Chrysler 300M 3.5 ltr
I replaced the timing belt and must have had some slack in the belt. When I put the belt tensioner back on and rotated the engine two times as the Haynes manual directed...the camshaft marks are way off. I may not have been on the compression stroke when I aligned TDC. Now at TDC on Crankshaft the cam shafts marks are 1-2 marks past 180 degrees opposite the marks on the top of the housing.
What do I do to realign everything? Some posts I have read caution against rotating a full revolution to realign the cams.
I have rotated the motor by hand more than one revolution...
can I go back in and rotate the camshafts clockwise to align the marks without the valves hitting pistons?
What is the procedure for realigning the camshafts and Crankshaft when they have moved this far and never been disassembled?

I just need to replace transmission fluids, is it a simple operations? as in this video:
Transmission Fluid & Filter Change Part 1 of 3 - YouTube
or maybe there are more proper operations to do?
---
about Fiat vehicles... in italy all fiat vehicles are famous for poor quality...and short life...

Same in USA but they have been gone for many years. Now they're back....we'll see how they do.

To bring it all into time, set the cams on marks, put the belt on left cam-right cam, then back the crankshaft up a tooth, put the belt on it then move it forward to pull the slack out.

If you need to turn the cams, move the crank off of TDC so the pistons will go down some.

Is that the transmission you have? It's pretty straightforward. The pan is a pain to clean all of the silicone off. If you have a NAG1, they are super easy to do. The key is to get the fluid level correct. Yes, you will need a dipstick.

mmm i don't know what kind of transmissions i have... I have a 300 Touring 2005, 3.5v6... where can i check transmissions type?

Someone have a tip to identify what kind of automatic trasmission i have?
NAG1 or 42RLE?
i think 42RLE checking in an autoparts dealer...

The NAG will only have 6 TOR-X bolts holding the pan on with little brackets. And it's rectangle. The other will have a more square pan with many bolts that have 10MM hex head fasteners.

Thanks so much!

Yesterday i went to mechanic and lifted up my 300c to check what kind of Automatic transmission i have... it's 42RLE.
Someone know the proper procedure to replace automatic transmissions fluids?

URGENTLY NEED the thread of the harmonic balancer Bolt....
Someone can help? thaks!

this tool HDP514 HARMONIC DAMPER PULLER | Matco Tools
permit to pull the damper without remove the radiator.
And what about this other tool?
Save on OTC Tools 6075 at ToolTopia.com

have you ever used it?
how do you reinstall damper usually?