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Introduction and Question...
Howdy, Y'All!
New to forum but not PTs. We bought a 2002 Touring Edition new back in the day and had to put it out to pasture after about 120k miles. We just picked up a nice 2001 Limited Edition, Dark Blue and other than some trouble getting home and spending about $450 on tows we finally got back to TX and I think things are sorted. First, after about 75 miles into the trip at started to overheat so I coasted to the shoulder and called the first tow-truck. $110 later we were at a reputable repair shop waiting for a diagnosis and it turned out to be a cracked thermostat housing and weak radiator cap. They installed a new one and after the shop owner test drove it we were on our way. A couple hundred miles later it started running warm again so I coasted the the shoulder once more, but we were only 47 miles from our destination but called a wrecker. $300 later the Cruiser was sitting in my driveway. This afternoon I took it to a shop across from my house and requested they replace the thermostat and do a flush and fill of the cooling system. While they were replacing the thermostat they found a collant sensor that was leaking so we replaced that as well. This may be the issue as when it started getting hot the second time I was watching the gauge more than the road and watched it slowly increase from 1/2 to a little over 3/4 so I shut it down. Don't think I'll ever do this king of 400 mile trip again but it is a really smart looking car. Ok enough of the backstory... The car has an ABS and TRAC light on. After first startup the lights extinguish for about a second and then come back on. This leads me to think it might be a wheel sensor? I hooked up my scanner and found no codes so I'm not sure where to start looking so any hints will be welcome. Justin B. 2002 PT Cruiser LE |
Couldn't find an edit button so I will clarify the last sentence above. After car is started, putting it in gear and starting to roll off the lights go out for maybe a second then come back on. My BMW motorcycle will give an ABS fault until it rolls a few feet until it "sees" signal from the sensors then ABS light will go out.
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getting hot while in a stop and go driving condition or wile open road? as far as the abs you will need a scanner tat can talk to the abs module to see the codes.
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In addition to pulling diagnostic codes from the abs module, be certain to pull the stored codes (previously active and stored for 30-40 restarts).
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I believe the heating problem is now taken care of so that should no longer be an issue - knock, knock...
I have a scanner and it found no codes and the only thing of note was two monitors NA. |
as i said you need a scanner that can read ABS modules a cheap code reader will not work.
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Thanks, I'll see if I can find somebody with one that would be willing to do a scan for me. Mine wasn't really cheap (mid-range Autel) but it apparently does not have the ABS module. I'll have to see if I can get a software update for it...
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Well, things go from bad to worse. It seems the head gasket is blown and I'm having trouble finding a reputable shop that is willing to work on it. If I was younger and by back wasn't messed up I'd take a stab at doing it myself. The search goes on...
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I found that one of my neighbor's uncles is a mechanic at a Chrysler dealer and does work on the side at his home. I dragged the car over to him and he took care of it at a very reasonable price. While he had it up on stands I also had him replace the lower control arms (bushing worn) and tie rods. Thing runs great and feels like a go-cart with the new tight suspension. :-) The connector for the cooling fan was also melty looking so I had him replace the fan as well while he had it apart. Temp gauge stays rock-solid on 1/2 now.
Justin B. |
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