2.8 CRD Auto engine cut out on kick down
 

Hi,

I have just been driving and went to put my foot down but not that hard, and the engine cut out? So I pulled over and re started straight away not even a stutter, started to drive then put my foot down again and it did it again??

am i doing something wrong or any ideas please, only had the car a week so am very new to this??

thanks

Hi guys,

Does no one have any ideas on this problem? I'm off on holiday in a few weeks and don't want it happening on the journey???


Any ideas would be great.


Thanks

Going on past experience and the experience of others on the forum I'd suggest that it's air getting into the fuel system via the fuel filters heater.

The best way to confirm this is to splice a section of clear 8mm plastic pipe into the fuel line from the filter to the injection pump and look for air bubbles. If you dont fancy cutting the fuel lines then try replacing the fuel filter heater, but I'm not a big fan of replacing parts without confirming that they are faulty first.

Regards

Richard

Yeah I'm not that confident to do that unfortunately, would this be the main cause you feel??? Is the fule filter heater easy to replace?

Thanks

The fuel filter assembly is located at the front on the engine and accessed from underneath.

Jack the car up and support it on proper stands, remove the fibre under tray. Look up at the front of the engine and you will see the bottom of the fuel filter and water trap. Take the electrical connection off of the water trap and unscrew the fuel filter - it might be a bit of a bugger to unscrew though. Once the filter is off and you now have diesel dripping down your arms use a allen key to unscrew the stud in the centre of the heater element and remove the electrical connections from it. The element should just come off. Fit a new fuel filter as well and pump the little pad on top of the filter head to prime the new filter with diesel

Found an image of the assembly on ebay, not a great picture but it gives you and idea of what you are looking at - I wouldn't recommend buying a 2nd hand one though
https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/...92GZrygZ//2Q==https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/...92GZrygZ//2Q==
Chrysler Voyager 2.8 CRD diesel fuel filter head pump | eBay

The heater element is the black plastic bit directly above the silver fuel filter

Regards
Richard

Cutting out..
 

Hi S6Voyager,
Now here's a little answer here but it was in relation to a differant car that I don't have the info on at moment.
It relates to the Foot Down info, cutting out.
The fault I'm referring to involves the foot peddle actuator, electronic gizmo that tells ECU to speed up engine. If this goes kaput, or acts up, Engine shuts down.
Well you don't want car to go mad do you so this cuts it out.
Goggs..

Hi thanks for the replies I managed to speak to a chrysler mercanic who said that's its typical on these models that its the fule filter letting in air, so going to start there and see what happens, will keep you informed.

Hi guys,

Ok so the car vistited the chrysler garage this morning, they think its not the fuel pump as mine is located at the back of the car near the tank not in the engine bay one which is a commons casue, they are not 100% sure without doing a full check which would cost me a fortune!

but why they were checking they have very kindly made me aware i have oil coming from the engine/gearboc conection!!! great!

im ion talks with the dealer i bought it from ive only had the car 3 weeks!

Any other ideas please?????

Hi, I have exactly the same issue with a 2005 2.8 Grand Voyager CRD. The engine cuts out at 2500rpm as you have described. I have recently just had the gearbox changed also and thought that this was some sort of "limp mode" or ECU fault. I googled this fault and found this We have a 2005 Chrysler Grand Voyager 2.8 CRD (stow and go). - JustAnswer where the owner rectified the fault after clearing a fuel blockage. This seems to be consistent what others are saying here.

Hi thanks for your reply, how would I go about clearing a blockage? Or des a Gararge need to do it?

Thanks

- the fitters making you aware of oil from the engine /gearbox - yeh right !
- could well be caused by the same junior 'fitters' that did the last service badly
- spin-on's both oil & fuel not lubricated first or put on tight enough are frequent oc-ups!
- the end float bearing looks like its loosing oil, when in fact the oil filter [dripping down] was put on badly
- and the diesel filter put on badly sucks air or suffers from 'flow back' when in fact the diesel filter was put on badly

Be safe check the filters for leaks............

If you have no air leaks, probably is a bad injector...
The Ecu software is highly restrictive: if the fuel rail pressure is only a bit lower or higher than target point, it cut off the engine. Other cars hasn't this problem. For example if you disconnect an injector with the engine idling, it will died after about 2 sec, because the pressure raise too much compared to target pressure: other cars idles with 3 cylinders...
Another problem (i had) is the fuel pressure relief valve threaded on the right side of the fuel rail: if it leaks (like mine) the pump can't build up the needed pressure and the ecu cut off. To check this valve you need to disconnect the little return line tube near the valve and tap it, then connect a tube in the rail nipple: put the other end in a bottle and start a short test drive. If you can see fuel in the bottle then your valve is bad.

Just for info I have had my fuel filter changed and the problem seems [fingers crossed] to have gone. [i'll need to do some more mileage to be completely convinced] but so far I have been able to hard accelerate and exceed 2500 rpm without it cutting out.

You say Fuel Filer replaced, this just the replaceable element or the whole unit, casing and filter.

Just the replaceable fuel filter.

How many KMS had on it before change?

Afternoon gents,

Thanks for all you messages, ok the update, the car has been back with the dealer I bought in from (not a Chrysler dealer) for nearly 3 weeks as it was still under the warranty, I only had the car 3 weeks! The rear main oil seal had gone and was pissing oil everywhere so they have sorted that and the say they have traced the cutting out issue back to a leaking injector which has now been changed, they have been test driving the car for the last few days and its going back on the diagnostic tester today for a final check and i might get it back tomorrow!!!! fingers crossed!!!!

I have to take it back to Chrysler to have the airbag sensors changed which is free as part of a recall when i get it back so will get them to give it a once over again to make sure everything is ok! keeping my fingers crossed as this hasn’t been a great start to my Chrysler life!

will update once I know more!

Hi guys

Ok so I had the car back a week and all seems to be fine no cutting out and been back to chrysler for the air bag sensors and they say the oil leak has been sorted as well!!!!


BUT.....fuel consumption seems to be really high, I haven't had the car that long so am not sure what it actually performs like but put £50 in the other day was around 3/4 of a tank ish, told me around 280 miles left, now the light has come on, I've done 135 miles with 47 miles to go???? It just doesn't seem to be that good???


What can cause this???


Thanks

hi. my 2003 2.5 crd is currently in the garage having the same fault rectified. it seemed to get worse after its service the week previous. even though the fuel filter was changed. now ive been told its the fuel pump cutting out. my chrysler has now been in the garage for 10 days and this morning they tell me my fuel tank is absolutely full of black sludge which is clogging everything up. so they are gonna steam cleam the tank before they replace the fuel pump!! its a nightmare trying to ferry 5 kids about in a ford fusion hire car!!!

well seems the previous owner of my voyager had filled it with red diesel!!! added engine oil to disguise the colour and totally kill my fuel system. cost me £597 to get it fixed on weds!! no shes running lovely with the clean fuel tank and system. new fuel filters and added stp diesel treatment.

Well im keeping a close eye on my consumption at the moment, ive changed the air filter as that was black so engine was not breathing properly, im going to change the the fuel filter as well and see what happens, they changed one injector but i think im going to check the others for leaking!!! She runs smooth and well but see s to lack a bit of power and fuel comp is high!!! Glad yours are running well now gents keep your fingers crossed for me!!!!

I would not trust anything the fuel guage tells you. I have never heard of an accurate one and when I asked a dealer if it could be set up to indicate actual fuel remaining, it seems it was an in joke. If you fuel guage says 3/4 full, it is likely less than half full. If it says 1/2 full, you will find you can put about 50 litres in - it is a 70 litre tank. I would suggest mileage to empty would be equally inaccurate. In the end you just have to understand what the guage is telling you and not take it literally.

With regard to injectors I would suggest you never change just one> each injector is set up mechanically using shims to set certain parameters - it is a highly sensitive job done in a climate controlled room by an experienced technician and very few diesel shops are able to do it. I paid good money at two Bosch "qualified" shops before I found one where they really know what they are doing. They have one of 4 Bosch test rigs in the UK and are located in Derbyshire. If you really want your injection system sorted out, check in with Swadlincote Diesel Services. After paying good money at two other places to do the job the quantity comparison test on my car was:
#1 + 1.9
#2 - 0.9
#3 - 0.3
#4 - 0.2

This seemed to imply an injector fault so the injectors were removed, cleaned ultrasonically and put in the test rig:
#1 Under fuel on mid load test step
#2 Pass Tests
#3 Under fuel on mid load test step
#4 Under fuel on mid load test step and Idle test steps

The three injectors that failed were repaired with new nozzles and set up to match the one that passed. The seats were recut and the injectors reinstalled.

The car now seems to get about 10MPG more than it got before at similar speeds and conditions.

The Injector test was £42 The repair £100.00 (including test) Labour on vehicle 3 hours.

Swadlincote Diesel certainly know their stuff

vrc8883