2007 2.8crd heater plug location
 

Hi,

Just bought a 2.8crd GV and it has issues starting so going to change glow plugs ready for winter hoping this will rectify the issue. Also the battery isnt the correct type so will replace this. It starts when attached to a jump pack after a few turn overs then runs fine. Just need to know the location of the plugs and a guide to remove and replace please if anyone on the forum can assist.

Cheers Dan

https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/...ng-then-19793/

Regards

Richard

List for you, read a bit [search for start] then ask your questions. I wouldn't touch anything till I'd cured the battery, the glow's are easy to test and cost nothing to test. There are lots of threads on battery's

Best of luck !

Fully aware about the battery issues on these as i owned a 2.5 crd before and after using a fully charged jump pack it started after a few attempts, so i am fairly certain it is the glow plug circuit. Is it an easy job or does it require removing the inlet manifold to gain access to the plugs?

Thanks Dan

What are you getting out of the glow plugs anyway.

Workshop manual, they are almost impossible to find particularly the diesel. If you open this and look for 14a FUEL SYSTEM. The book covers the fuel system on the 2.8L AND 2.5L. Hope this helps.

An update for you all..........
After checking out a few things and doing a "key dance" i had P0403 code appear which is an EGR valve electrical malfunction. I stripped down the EGR valve and vacuum tested it which showed that it was open all the time. To rectify this i just simply blanked off the EGR valve and gave everything a good clean as it was all gunked up. Now the 2.8CRD is starting straight away in the mornings and driving like a dream. Still have the code present however it isnt affecting it in any way.
Hope this helps,
Dan

So here is the EGR blanked off and its running ok. Last time I heard about this blanking off, the control module would need to be remapped or similar. But control has noted that EGR is not operating correctly so fault code will stand.
But wondering if this will pass MOT status. Emissions ?

Had a long drive in it today purely for test purposes and all was well, in fact it was great. Engine starting straight away, felt smoother, quicker on the power and no horrible plumes of exhaust coming out the back on hard acceleration or over-run. The P0403 code is still present when I do a keydance but it has no effect on the performance. On some cars namely my mates Volvo V50 he had to drill an 8mm hole in the blank to then make it a restrictor plate as the sensors could tell it was fully blanked and threw up an EML fault code. As far as im aware it should pass emissions as diesels are only smoke tested. In my mechanical opinion blanking off the EGR valve is better long term for a diesel engine and definitely by what i witnessed last night with all the sludge in the pipe after the egr absolutely caked in sludge. Not good for the engine whatsoever.

I'm surprised that the MIL isn't lit with the EGR blanked, most ECU's will detect the increase of air through the MAF. I'm a big fan of blanking EGR's and have done it on all of my older cars, which don't monitor parameters as closely. If the MIL is lit, then it's a MOT failure

I'll give it a try on the Chrysler I think.


Regards
Richard

Me too - add me to that list, I've always blanked till this car and each has resulted in much better MPG - acceleration etc. I did look at doing it on a GV but all the advice was it would throw a megga wobble and compensate elsewhere. As far as I'm aware they [Europe] have threatened the DPF and EGR test every year for the last 3, they did the DPF but have never implemented the EGR bit. I've never seen the usual guidance notes on EGR checking. The success or otherwise of Dans experiment may be year related as in Euro 1 (1993) and Euro 5 (2008/9) vehicles. If it works for Dan & tfb - I'm certainly having some of it for my 2005 - I've long hated the imposition of the eat~your~own~$hit~filter, and its costs .. .. both performance and financial.

I still need to take the inlet manifold off and clean that as didn't have time the other night so the engine is still breathing in a small amount of its own faeces. Whilst I'm at it, ie educing fuel consumption, why not de-cat the exhaust. I have to take it off to weld it soon anyway as there is a slight leak just after down pipe joint. Let's get that turbo spalling up more freely and quickly. Morally wrong? Maybe, rather have more mpg though on this thirsty beast! I was expecting EML or MIL to light up. I'm sure if it wanted to light up it would have done immediately or during yesterday's test drive. Maybe I have a fault somewhere else or maybe the P0403 code is suffice. I'm sure it's euro IV engines and beyond that will sense the egr blank which is why you need to drill a small hole to partially operate it, so anything before should be ok. I will keep on updating over the next few cold months with hopefully some good results and touch wood no MIL.

I don't see [EGR] it as morally wrong at all, I see it as a EURO imposed 'straight bananas & cucumbers', its an iniquitous waste of all Europeans money. Ditto the CAT's, we have to fit an expensive CAT which clogs in urban and city driving, then we are told by the manufacturers that when our brand new car clogs up we have to drive for a fast hot 40 minutes [active regeneration run] on the M25 and cough the carbon it cost us a fortune to collect for the EU parliament out of our exhaust and back into the environment onto the tarmac of the M25 - madness isn't it ?, certainly Euro 5 legislation required a Diesel Particulate Filter [DPF] to be fitted.

http://pmmonline.co.uk/files/profess...osch%201_0.jpg

Typical DPF Fault Codes

P1471 - Diesel Particulate Filter (Bank 1) Regeneration not completed
P2002 - Diesel Particulate Filter (Bank 1) Efficiency below threshold
P2003 - Diesel Particulate Filter (Bank 1) Particulate mass too high
P242F - Diesel Particulate Filter (Bank 1) Regeneration not active
P244A - Particulate Filter DIfferential pressure too low
P244B - Particulate Filter Differential pressure too high
P2452 - Particulate Filter Differential pressure sensor malfunction
P2453 - Diesel Particulate Filter Differential pressure sensor malfunction
P2454 - Diesel Particulate Filter Differential pressure sensor voltage too low
P2455 - Diesel Particulate Filter Differential pressure sensor malfunction
P2458 - Particulate Filter regeneration maximum regeneration time exceeded
P2459 - Particulate Filter regeneration, regeneration frequency implausible

I am one individual with a driving frequency lifestyle that is the primary cause [er] of blockages, short journeys and very and relatively few motorway miles will stop any vehicle from ‘active regenerating’, thus causing the DPF to become blocked. Blocked DPF's lead to deteriorating engine performance, increased fuel consumption and eventual loss of power and a very irritated QinteQ.

http://pmmonline.co.uk/files/profess...0Clean%202.jpg

VOSA test stations all view a CAT as a 'must be present' during the full emissions test. My understanding [and someone might want to (2014) correct me] is that with diesel there is no such VOSA requirement because a 'full' emissions [see 7.1 exhaust system] test is not performed on a diesel vehicle and should therefore pass the MOT. In that same section the schizophrenic document advises VOSA stations to reject the MOT because """A catalytic converter missing where one was fitted as standard""" It might however break the DfT rules in terms of the Road Vehicles Regulations 1986.

royal100805, you might want to do a pictorial 'walkthrough' for the EGR blanking and post it here .. .. because """darkchild101""" and many others will be along very soon asking for one - good work royal100805.

> as an aside <

The newest ideas in penalising the motorist is the pigs pi$$. UREA is injected as a fine spray into the exhaust catalyst, you buy a new car and it comes with a 19 litre weight of pigs pi$$ adding significantly to the cost of driving a diesel vehicle. Another mad and expensive inconvenience, and, when the supply is used you get three warnings and you are out [immobilised] till you get to a garage and pay to have it read, and reset after paying for another 19 litres of pigs pi$$.

Regarding these stupid EGR valves! The guys on theToyota forums tried to use a blaking plate! But it just didn't work! I tried it with tthe same results on my T180 2.2 oil burner with the same results! The guys on the Lexus forum use a enumerator that tricked the Denso Ecu into thinking it was still there! So no need to remove the EGR valve and worked a treat. I would have done it myself if I'd have kept the car...

Regarding the EGR, I dont mind as much with emissions as I know im increasing engine life and effectively improving fuel efficiency and low down torque. However with the cat, which prevents the most amount of emissions, it is morally wrong in a sense, but I shall not lose any sleep.

You are right QinteQ, it has to be present which is why when I eventually remove the exhaust to do the welding I am going to get a rod and bash the daylights out of the honeycomb inside it. So effectively to the keen eye of an MOT tester the cat will be present but unknown to him, it will just be an empty box.

When i get round to cleaning the inlet manifold I will do my best to post pictures, especially as I didnt with the rear crank oil seal job, because I have to remove the EGR valve anyway.

It is great having the car start up on the first turn of the key and driving smoothly. Just need to replace some bushings front and rear typical with Grand Voyagers, get some new bearings for the alternator, service the engine and auto gearbox then will be like new again in my opinion. Not bad at all for a car with 201,000 miles on the clock.

@ 210k he's a highroller which would explain the CAK in the EGR, but clearly she can still pick her shirts up when her airway[s] are freed from the strangulation applied by EURO jobswoths. I ran 2 different BUGs over a decade and managed a clear 4MPG improvement on one and a slightly lower figure on the other - both were 1900CRD's. There was no difference at all on the two Fiat's [hot or cold] starting capabilities but the Multipla's were well known to never need a 'glow plug' ever in their whole half-lifetime.

That would be helpful to many UK users, especially """user - darkchild101""". I also suspect that many others in the years to come will find the thread and benefit from the extra couple of minutes spent with a camera. Its a big ask to request the MODS to spend time builsing a loxked sticky of 'walkthrough' clutch / brakes / handbrick / rod ends / EGR etc. I suppose I could do it - not as a sticky but as a reference repository of known to work fix's.

BTW people it would help everyone if when asking any question if you SIG line stated clearly pre-stated your vehicle type, such as :

- QinteQ - 2005 Grand Voyager CRD Ltd Edn 2.8L Turbo Diesel Long Wheelbase EURO Wagon (4th Gen [Mk IV] - RG - 53 - H Series) [ US Town & Country Ltd ]
- royal100805 - 2007 Grand Voyager 2.8Crd Auto Executive XS
- TimmyTim - 2.8L Grand Voyager XS (56 Plate)