98 grand voyager reverse light probs
 

hi i am in australia and have a 98 model grand voyager,
having trouble with the reverse lights
they always stay on wether in reverse or drive and go for a little while then will blow the fuse and turn signals stop working and the abs light comes on{hence the blown fuse,}. replaced multiple fuses ,same thing .
obviously some kind of short or some thing
just spent 3 days on it ,driving me mad ,
can anybody please shed some light
cheers javic76

Did you have any luck with this? I have the same problem. The fuse blows usually on engine startup after the van has been running for a while already. The front blower also does not work. I have replaced the blower motor and changed the relay. I can't figure out why the fuse keeps blowing.

Sorry tyeaway,no luck,can somebody tell me how to tell what the inhibitor switch looks like or where I can find it

Now I need to find out how to remove the Trans range sensor(trs)

Ya, I think it is the Trans Range sensor. I guess some folks also call it the Park/Neutral Safety Switch. The wiring diagram showed the transmission range sensor reverse lights, the front blower motor relay and blinkers all on the same fuse. The fuse that kept blowing.

Other signs were: 1) when I put the ignition to On/run position before starting the engine, the PRND3L display would display a box around the R and not around the P even though the shift lever is in Park. 2) I could start the engine with the shift lever in Reverse. Keep your foot on the brake when starting with this malfunction. 3) On the PRND3L display on the dashboard, I would never get a box around the P or the N when I put the shift lever in that position.

The thing I am still unsure of is how the reverse lights being continuously illuminated and getting really hot would cause the fuse to blow without the bulb blowing first? Or maybe it is a short in the TRS that causes the fuse to blow.

To change the switch on my 2000 GV, 3.3l with 41TE, you have to drop the pan, then drop the valve assembly to get at the switch. That is a little too risky for me. I took it in and they quoted a price of $287 including new fluid and filter. I have not got it back yet though.The actual part is pretty cheap at around $35.

Good Luck!

Let me know the outcome tyeaway

The bulbs are carrying the load they are designed to carry. Any light bulb will last longer when continuously lit. It's the constant on off cycles that sap the life out of light bulbs. The fuse is trying to carry a load higher than it is rated for so it blows to protect the circuit including the bulbs. It protects the circuit, not the bulbs. That's the beauty of the design. Instead of disassembling light assemblies to change a bulb, you pull a cover off a fuse box and change a fuse in less than a quarter of the time.

It was the transmission range sensor. They also call it the Park/Neutral Safety Switch. You can Google an image of it. I had a transmission shop do the work for $287 to include new fluid and filter. I didn't see it being done, but they apparently dropped the pan, then dropped the valve assembly. He said there are springs you have to watch out for and one of them was broken. The actual sensor was apparently then easy to change. The actual part was also pretty cheap at $37. No guarantee on electrical parts.

Everything seemed to work well on the drive home, until I get there. The engine starts to chug and soon thereafter - misfire # 5 cylinder. Here we go again!!

One headache gone and another takes it's place. Uh boy. Start another thread for your misfire and we'll help get you going.