Another (Different) Power Lock Issue
 

Alright, I have read through several threads on the power lock issues on T&C, and cant seem to find the answer to my problem. someone please HELP!

I have a 2005 LX with manual sliding doors.

The driver power lock switch doesn't operate anything, nothing, nada.

The passenger power lock switch locks/unlocks the driver and passenger door locks and the rear hatch, but neither of the sliding door locks.

The keyless remote locks/unlocks tthe driver and passenger door locks and the rear hatch, but neither of the sliding door locks.

Here is what I've done but with no success: removed and re-installed the IOD fuse; removed and replaced the negative battery terminal; swapped the working power lock switch from the passenger side to the driver side - when i did this, thinking the driver power lock switch was bad, that "bad" switch worked when installed on the passenger side but the "good" switch wouldn't work on the driver side (i marked them before i switched them just to make sure i didnt reinstall them in the same door panel)

So, i am at a loss. i have visually inspected the wiring on the sliding doors and see no breaks. as a matter of fact, you can hear the actuators actuating or trying to in the sliding doors when you press the lock/unlock switch on the passenger side or use the remote.

I really don't want to take this thing to the dealer unless i just have to.

I just purchased this van used from the original owner for my daughter, thinking that the BCM may need re-flashed and thinking that the temporary IOD fuse trick would work in the mean time. So now i am really puzzled.

OK all you mechanically inclined folks that love a challenge, please give me your thoughts

Thanks!

there is a software update for the 04 and 05 for the door lock issue

thanks Chrysler Tech. So maybe i'm a little confused with the software update issue. Other replies i read mention that pulling the IOD fuse works temporarily until you can have the bcm reflashed. Am i to understand that just because removing the IOD or disconnecting the battery didn't give the fix (temporary) that it still could be due to the need for the software update?

correct

thank you Chrysler Tech. i guess the confusing part is that i would expect a reset to return the software back to its original state instead of the fault state in which it is currently in.

I pulled the negative battery cable for about 15 minutes, but the radio stations remained set. that kind of confused me, but it may be normal for a chrysler, which i have never owned before now. Is it, or should i remove the negative cable for a longer period. I guess there is a chance the memory didnt totally reset if there was some capacitance that takes place over short periods. Any thoughts?

Looking for a little guidance. If i take this to the dealer, can i expect them to just perform the software update if I ask them, or will they offer resistance? And what is an average I should expect to pay for this service? Is there any way to get a software update besides taking it to the dealer? What are the chances that the BCM itself may need replacing? Sorry for all the questions, just want to be prepared when i get there.

an hour would be the norm to pay for the update and U ask them to see if your bcm has the update for the door lock issue.

thanks. I am scheduled to go to the dealer on Thursday morning, so i will let you know. the cheapest i found in Birmingham was $89. Others wanted $93, $95, and $148.

UPDATE: went to the stealer today. They had a difficult time updating the software, but finally got it . they reprogrammed/updated BCM from 4743752AA 4843752AB. DIDN'T WORK. Same issues as before (see thread). So, more evaluation. After being at the dealer for 3.5 hours, they narrowed it down to a bad BCM. Should have read the TSB 08-040-04 a little closer before i went to the dealer and asked for a software update. The TSB doesnt apply to software version 4743752AA or higher, so i guess i paid for an update that wasn't necessary for a fix to my problems. The cost was two hours at $89per hour for a grand total of $178, and for nothing. I didnt have the BCM replaced, but if I go back and have the BCM replaced, it will be $285 + $45 labor.

People, please learn from my mistake. Be sure you know which version of software you have before you attempt to re-flash as a solution; ask the dealer to verify for you based on that particular TSB. Also, my first clue should have been that the IOD fuse pull didn't work, and so I should have known there was another issue.

Please temper with reason all recommendations/solutions that people give you on this site.

Bottom line: A reflash of the BCM doesnt solve everything, and there are clues as what to look for before accepting that as a solution.

your one situation does not make all others bad The info I gave u was correct based on the info that U had given me.
This site and among all others are for information only and does not take the place of a qualified tech looking at your car first had with real data at there finger tips.

Yes, I agree with you Chrysler Tech. I appreciate your input, and that post wasn't pointed at you by any means. It was meant as a general input. This particular thread wasn't my only source used to make my decision to take the car to the dealer. The "fault" lies directly with me, not anybody else. I should have done more homework before I jumped to conclusions on a solution.