anyone to advise asap please
 

hi all, 3rd question i have ever asked since joining, i know it may sound cheeky as i never have any input into others questions but i dont know anything about cars hence my asking, but i would really appreciate some advice, i got in car this morning and my 98 voyager 2l when started was stiff to go into first and then it wouldnt shift into any other gears, i turned it off and it then went straight into the different gears , but when i turned back on the same problem happened so i have been unable to use it, the clutch pedal is very floppy and when i depress it i can hear what i can only describe as a springy metal sound xx would appreciate any advice many thanks x

The device which operates the clutch is obviously not working, hence jammed gears. It's usually a cable or sometimes hydraulic, but as I've not had a manual car in a long time, someone else here will show you the ropes (or cables).

Leedsman.

As above... Could also be clutch release bearing problem! When was the clutch plate last replaced? How many miles on the car? It this is a hydraulic operated clutch? Take a look at the Clutch/brake fluid reservoir and see how much is in there. You may have a leak? This needs to be taken into a garage if you don't know what you're doing.

ty for the replies, its got 100k plus on the car, i have no idea when anything was replaced, until today i have had no problems with the gears even sticking or being hesitat to change, its just flown though its mot apart from a brake cylinder on the wheel area? i have checked all fluid levels and all are ok,the brake one is about 3cm above the add level, last few days though its been a bit juddery on pulling off and have had to give more gas or is this just coincidence?

From your juddery on pulling off and more gas you possibly need a new clutch as its on the rivits. But saying that you got to start at beginning and get clutch operation checked.
As to which garage, take it to your mot one as they seem legit, only a brake cylinder, that's a first. Some garages make there money by fleecing Lady motorists, as they don't know any better.
Good luck and report back what happens. And, just ask...

ty for your reply, i know i was chuffed with an 80 quid bill for mot :) i so need my car as i have just had daughter take me to make my deliveries nd shes a newish driver and all i can say is OMG my leg hurts from pretend braking :/ pure coincidence but we had a 2nd hand starter fitted a few weeks ago and when we start car it starts but theres an initial clunk?

another quick question please, still having problem with the above problem, i have checked the reservoir and as soon as i removed the plastic cap i can see the fluid and theres ample so presume im not leaking fluid because its full, also tried pumping the pedal 60-100 ties as per another post in the forum but still no joy, i cant afford to have it taken to garage just yet until hubsters payday. i did have to drive it other day to collect disabled son as he had fallen ill and i found if i depressed pedal half way it went into gear not as smooth as normally did but easier than when i started the thread, does anyone have any more things i can try please tia x

it is possible, though difficult to drive without a clutch. It's a matter of matching the engine revs when changing gear - let the revs drop when trying to change up and raise the revs when changing down.

It is unlikely that your clutch plate is worn as it would "slip" when you tried accelerating. The most likely thing is the mechanism which releases the clutch. This consists of the pedal, a fluid reservoir, a master cylinder, pipework, slave cylinder, forked arm and a bearing.

I'm not as familiar with the manual boxes as the auto boxes, but if you can find someone to press the clutch pedal for you then you may be able to look for the slave cylinder pushing the release fork. You need to break the fault down to inside the gearbox or outside the gearbox. The outside stuff being easier and cheaper to fix as it doesn't involve removing the gearbox.

Regards
richard

mobile mechanic just been an said its my clutch so need a full new kit :( price 400 well looks like im going to be scrapping my car

when he said it was your clutch, did he say what was wrong with it and why he had come to that conclusion?

Yes, I agree that it is a fault with the clutch system, but which part of that system?

Regards
Richard

no idea tbh he just said i need a new clutch kit and rang for a price which was over 200 and with vat and fitting was 400, also said he would fit it at the roadside

just asked the mechanic and its the pressure plate x

Something doesn't seem right here...

hello goggs, what do you mean please x

EuroCarParts have Transmech complete clutch kits at £136.80 including vat or a Sachs kit for £206.40 including vat. Kits include pressure plate, release bearing and friction plate. I believe the work can be completed by a good mechanic (in a well equiped garage) in 6 hours.

hi alan, i have checked eurocar parts and unfortunately said t didnt have any parts for clutch for my vehicle, i also ut my reg in x

it is possible it's the pressure plate, but changing it at the side of the road is not something I'd fancy doing.

Regards
Richard

If any mechanic worth his salt was changing the pressure plate, they would also replace the friction plate and release bearing at the same time.

Edit: @snowprincess. Sorry, I'd priced for a 2004 model, I only just realised yours is earlier.

your problem is pressure plate, but you need to disassemble all the clutch to change it, when doing this work we change all the clutch kit, besides i believe that you cannot buy only the pressure plate because of what i have said (clutch disassemble), this is a 5 to 6 hours work but if you have some kind of lift will be much more easy to do.
3 years ago i changed one chrysler 2.5 diesel 1999 clutch kit and i paied 250 euros for it, i believe i bought it in ebay.

managed to get a recon from a chrysler part dealer on internet, 90 days warranty at cost of £90 so hopefully get me through christmas x just hope mechanic is not too long at fitting it now x

Is that the complete cluch assembly or just the pressure plate?

hi alan, its for the pressure plates, and 2 other things which i cant remember what, i may be wrong but im sure he said wheel and release? he did say twice it was everything i needed to get me back on the road and mechanic is charging me 130 to fit so still an expensive do so close to xmas but still better than 400 xx

The '2 other things' are more than likely the release bearing and friction plate. If so then that should be everything you need to get you back on the road. £130 for the labour is a good price.

Good Luck

UPDATE *** the "Guy" who said was a clutch set i needed didnt bother to tun up ater numerous messages etc which he read and didnt have the decency to reply, we managed to get another mechanic out and he said its not the clutch but the slave cylinder? its the one with a piston thing on the end, anyways hes fitted it but has had me pumping the pedal for quite a while now is that normal? hes now rang and asked someone to come down with a bleed kit as he reckons thats easier is this correct procedure as im now not sure what to believe :(

In your first post on this problem you described hearing a "springy metal sound". That's a mechanical type noise and that's why we suspected the release bearing or pressure plate. Leedsman thought it may be a hydraulic problem (which points to the clutch slave cylinder) but then you went on to say " i have checked the reservoir and as soon as i removed the plastic cap i can see the fluid".
So, assuming that it was the clutch reservoir and not the brake reservoir that you checked, and you could see fluid, then it's unlikely to be the clutch master cyclinder that's causing your problem.
If the mechanic has fitted a new slave cylinder and filled up the reservoir with hydraulic fluid, then it should only take about 10 pushes on the clutch pedal to bleed the air out of the system. That's assuming that the mechanic is releasing the bleed screw each time you depress the pedal. He shouldn't really need a bleed kit just for the clutch hydraulics if you're there to help him. :confused:

Whereabouts in the Country are you based. Perhaps somebody on the forum can recommend a local mechanic.

hi alan, ty for reply, after sitting here crying my eyes out all afternoon it looks like i will have to scrap my car, furious these 2nd lot of mechanics didnt return to my car today as promised, also looked under bonnet and they have removed several rubber pipes and jut left them, he was only occasionally under the car when i was pressing the clutch, im in east yorkshire, Hull, but my insurance runs out on the 19th and i cant afford to throw anymore money at the car and certainly cant afford another car, which means i now have no business, xx

If I lived near you I would help you out but I'm just too far away. Sorry.

alan dont be sorry its not your fault :) i am just so angry for being so trusting ,once bitten eh x

hubby had a look at car this am and we found a pic on the forum to compare with from glowplug? of the slave actuator? but i noticed that the new one the mechanic fitted yesterday the plastic flexible arms are snapped both sides would this make a difference to bleeding the clutch?

I'm sorry but that doesn't make any sense at all. Can you copy and paste the link from the page where you saw the pic and possibly include a photo of the new one that the mechanic fitted? (Glad to hear that you've not given up completely yet :))

[URL="https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/voyager-clutch-problem-6398/
hi i dont know if i have done this correctly but the white flexible arms as shown in the pic from the member are snapped, we have taken it off our car now and sadly the mechanic has not replaced the part as the one we got was from the scrap and was marked incase of return and the one we have taken off is not marked :(

Well I have looked at the two photo's and I have to say that is the strangest thing I have ever seen and the method of bleeding described by glowplug is the strangest thing I have ever heard.
From what I can figure out, the plastic clip is only needed if you remove the slave cylinder from the gearbox to prevent the piston from being pushed out of the cylinder (I think) Are you able to see a bleed nipple on the end of the slave cylinder, if so this is used in the conventional way of bleeding a hydraulic line.

Here is a simple explanation on how to bleed a clutch: Bleeding the clutch | How a Car Works
and here is a YouTube tutorial on bleeding a clutch using the same method that I think glowplug mentioned:

O.K. I have just watched the YouTube tutorial myself and I have to admit that I learnt something from it. :) I've not had to bleed too many clutches in my time and never had to resort to the method described in the tutorial but now that I've watched it I understand glowplugs theory and also realise that the plastic clips can be substituted by the 'G' clamp used in the tutorial. You will need to remove the slave cyclinder from the gearbox to use the 'G' clamp method. Good Luck.
Edit: Forgot to mention the the bleed screw is probably protected by a rubber cap to keep the dirt out. This will easily pull off.

well no joy im afraid the piston on the slave does not move in at all, but the mechanic has definitely not replaced the piece at all as i said it was marked by the scrap place and the one we have taken off had no markings on at all and was a pain to get nuts off as they were seized, now the mechanics not returning our part that we have bought and hubbys kicking himself as he said if he knew in the first place it was that easy to remove and replace he would of had a go in first place