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-   -   Boost Pressure Sensor (https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/boost-pressure-sensor-25243/)

Jodel 11-05-2015 10:47 AM

Boost Pressure Sensor
 
I have a P0235 fault code on my 2007 Voyager 2.8 CRD. Is there an option of cleaning the BP Sensor, or should I replace it? I have been quoted about £60 through Chrysler. Is it specific to this model or are they in any way generic, as there are much cheaper ones online, but I don't know the part no. Thanks

goggs 11-05-2015 01:27 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Boost pressure and temp sensor, sits atop manifold. Not clear about your 2007 model as mines 2003. Are my pictures alike. Does your power cut down of hard acceleration and light come on.

tfb 11-06-2015 01:30 AM

search goole for the bosch part number on the sensor....you should be able to find a better price.

Also just because the the ECU has flagged a P0235 it doesn't necessarily mean the sensor is a fault. Diagnostic procedure can be found here
http://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/m...Powertrain.pdf

Regards
Richard

goggs 11-06-2015 06:11 AM

I'll have that info too tfb. Amazing what you can find on here.

goggs 11-06-2015 02:20 PM

As I've got same code problem as you, but I've managed to overcome it, I am interested if the boost/temp sensor is the problem. But my cars just passed the MOT today after a page full of repairs including all handbrake cables. So I may get back on this fault if weather permits. Unless you find it first. Would be ideal to try another sensor incase buying one is a waste of money.

goggs 11-06-2015 02:48 PM

For reference there are 4 wires on the boost sensor, DB, DB/LG, LB/PK and DB/YL.
DB is ground. DB/LG is temp return sensor signal. LB/PK is 5v Reference or input volts. DB/YL is Boost return signal. So as boost increases, voltage will either go up or down, computer notes this and fuels accordingly. So this is the test I'm going too do soon to see what happens.
Wiring by tfb.
Directed by Wes Craven.
Produced by Disney.

goggs 11-07-2015 12:16 PM

Another answer to code on boost pressure is Turbo Actuator as this is what makes the boost of course. So like me check its operation by substituting a rubber hose to it and suck. Course hose may implode so need to use plastic washer hose with rubber connections. Think I'll still put my money on the sensor (went I get some).

Jodel 11-19-2015 08:53 AM

Have replaced the Boost Pressure Sensor and still getting the P0235 code and the MIL comes on after about 2 or three miles. There is what I would describe as turbo lag when accelerating at about 40mph, the revs ahng at 2000 and then after about 5 seconds, it atarts to accelerate

goggs 11-19-2015 03:53 PM

Sounds like turbo problem as in turbo operating problem. Check hose for leak, they often split at connection ends.

goggs 11-24-2015 03:11 PM

Hi Jodel you had any luck. Interested to know Boost/Pressure sensor didn't solve the P0235 Boost code. I didn't have the Turbo Lag thou.

Jodel 11-28-2015 04:01 PM

Booked in to dealers on Friday for diagnostics. Fuel consumption is up as well, only getting avg 23mpg on long runs.

goggs 11-29-2015 03:47 PM

Hey wait I thought for a mo you actually had a petrol V6 what with 23mpg...
Mine has a slight flutter on the power and I've got to back it off, if I don't engine light comes on temporarily. Car still useable thank god but it still rains...
Anybody into Anti-rain-dancing.

Jodel 12-21-2015 04:53 AM

After nearly 4 months, 2 main dealers and a local garage having no luck with sorting this, including a main dealer trying to tell me it needed a new boost pressure sensor for £186, which I had replaced 2 days before.. I took it to the excellent Clive Woolford Motor Engineers in Tewkesbury. They had it for half a day, at a labour rate less than half the main dealers and found 2 faults. I was getting the P0235 BP sensor error code and also P0487 which I think was EGR related. They found one of the thin vacuum pipes to the EGR valve had a hole in it due to chafing and the EGR was clogged up. More obscurely, they discovered that the loom to the ECU had at some time been refitted so it was routed incorrectly and fixed with cable ties, such that it was under tension and so making intermittent contact, which may have lead to the B Pressure low voltage error?

The car now goes like a train and is back to it's old performance and the fuel consumption seems improved.

tfb 12-21-2015 05:00 AM

it's nice when you find someone that is actually capable of diagnosing faults and not just swapping parts out.

Regards
Richard

goggs 12-21-2015 02:32 PM

Nice result Jodel, may help me there somewhere. I'm on a P0235 and it causes power loss on booting it. But it started to shut down as well but a new sensor at £53 cured shutdown only. Have still to get vacuum pipes to EGR and Turbo checked out. But be interested to know where this ECU tight cable work is.

Jodel 12-31-2015 04:35 AM

Having sorted the Boost Pressur Sensor and loom problems, I subsequently got a loud buzzing noise from under the bonnet, which would continue for about 30 seconds after switch off and then die away. The mechanic at Clive Woolford diagnosed it as a failed diaphragm in a pneumatic solenoid which operates some sort of air valve used to shut off engine. It doesen't appear in any of the sensor diagrams in the PDF diesel-SM manual I have, which led me to think it is a later addition connected to emissions? It sits at the front of the head, to the left of the Boost Sensor and is fed vacuum as a branch off the EGR vac solenoid and outputs down to the shut off valve near the EGR. It looks very similar to the EGR solenoid and is made by a Czech company called Pierburg, part no 7.01010.00. I have got one on order.

Anybody shed any light on this please?

tfb 01-01-2016 03:06 AM

Sounds like the throttle valve. It is to do with emissions and it blocks off the air to the engine when the EGR operates.

Richard


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