CRD Cutting out AGAIN!! Please help me!
 

Voyager 2.8 CRD Auto 2005 km 132000.
On hard acceleration the engine cutting out! (P1130)
I changed fuel filter support (haeter melted), cleaned tank (wasn't dirty), added an electric lift pump, changed the fuel rail relief valve (leaking), changed Mprop valve on the HP pump.
At cold engine is fine, but when hot, at WOT it cuts out again, not if i press the pedal to 3/4.
Instead on the highway (120-130 km/h) if i press the pedal at WOT, is fine :confused:.
I performed the injectors leak back test:
all injectors leaks the same, about 20ml/min at idle and about 30ml/min at 2500 RPM.
What can i do now?
Many thanks to who could help me!

Hi Joker2cv

I don't have a solution to the problem but if you need me to take any readings/measurements etc from my car, be happy to. I have 2005 2.8 CRD auto 190,000 miles.

what about the high pump iteslf , deffo sounds like the mprop is sensing too much pressure and cutting fuel supply , my car did this but when i got the car it had one of those plug in chip things and i messed around with the settings and turned it up and it cut out due to too much pressure
it can also cut out if the pressure is too low which could point to injectors of high pressure pump

I connected a voltmeter to the fuel rail pressure sensor (central wire) and i read this values:
at idle about 1,16 volt (corresponding at about 300 bar) - FINE
normal criuse 1,9-2,3 volt (corresponding 700-800 bar)
at wot it goes to 3,5 volt (1500 bar), then drops slowly to 2,8 v (1000 bar) and cuts!
If i press first at wot and then to 3/4, the pressure remain constant to 3,4 volt and the engine doesn't cuts out.
It's like if the pump can't supply to the delivery of fuel at wot: it can't hold the pressure because the quantity of fuel burned and leaked by the injectors is higher than the quantity supplied by the pump itself...

@ RODGER:
Could you make the same measurement with voltmeter (digital)?
If you could i'll tell you how make it. Thank you very much!!

Hi Joker2cv

I have digital voltmeter, just give me instructions, happy to help.

Hi Rodger,
You should remove the engine cover and screwed at about the middle of the fuel rail you will see the fuel pressure sensor with a 3 wire plug: strip a little part of the central wire and connect to it the positive lead of the voltemeter (the negative lead to ground). The sensor has a range from 0 to 5 volt, so set the voltmeter to read this interval. Then perform a road test and record the values at idle, normal cruise(70-80 km/h) and at wot from 50 km/h: please hold the wot for at least 15 sec (free street!) and see the voltage reading changing. T
The last test (at wot) is the most important for me.
Thank you VERY MUCH for your help!!

Hi Joker2cv

I need to make up some longer leads for my meter, might take a day or two. I will come back to you.

Rodger

Hi Rodger,

I'll wait!
Thanks a lot!!

Fabio

Hi joker 2cv
Hopefully I will get to this tomorrow
Rodger

Hi Fabio

Sorry this took so long.

Idle (warm engine) 1.16 - 1.19 V

Light cruise ie 40 MPH @ 1500 RPM autobox just in top gear, flat road exactly 1.5 V

Moderate acceleration 2.2 - 2.7 V

WOT (about 12 seconds, the longest road I have!) it goes almost immediately to 3.39 V and then creeps up to 3.41 V and stays at that. I did this 3 times with the same result.

Hope this helps, let us know what you find.

Rodger

Hi Rodger,
First of all many thanks!
The values you find are very similar to mine (i tested today again).
The problem is that my pump can't hold the maximum pressure (3,4 volt) and drops to 2,8 volt then cuts out because the PCM "reads" too low pressure.
I think that i'll need to refurbish my high pressure pump... :(
Thank you very much

Fabio:)

I can confirm that. Just replaced my hp pump+timingbelt. The Car dos not cut of Any more, but om still Having problems Edith just startens tre engine. Once started it runs fine.

Hi Rabster,
Did your car cut out too before the pump changing?

I'll have to Withdraw my last statement, it did the same cut out even after i changed the pump. Happened today on my way home and it did not wont to start. Had to spary it with easy start.

Did it cut again??
Perhaps you have a problem with injectors too.
Did it cut on hard acceleration?

Yes hard acc, dont think the injectors, all 4 New ones.

Oh! i'm very surprised!
What will you do now?
Please inform me about next works...
Did you checked the fuel pressure relief valve on the rail? Mine was leaking...
Mine doesn't cut out when the engine is cold or warm, only when is hot (after at least 20 min running): yours?

I checked everything and nothing is leaking, now i got a new problem, my starter motor wont work now, think its worn out due to all the starts and no running engine :(
I got a friend working for chrysler here in stockholm, but he wont be back untill the middle of august, hope i can fix it bofore that...

I'll keep you posted.

I'm tuned ;)

I tested my MAF sensor and i found it bad! The output voltage is steady at 1,03 volt with engine running too.
I tried to disconnect the MAF plug and the engine runs better: much response and it cut out less. The engine light on the dash strangely remain off: the ECM does not notice that the MAF is unplugged. Is it possible?
Could be the bad MAF my problem?