Exhaust smoke from passanger side of engine bay
 

Hi everyone, I have just purchased a 2.8crd 2008 Grand voyager and I have been sold a few problems lol
1, it does not want to start from cold and it takes forever once fried up no further starting issues all day.
1, when its cold it has excessive exhaust smoke coming from the passengers side of the engine bay. once it warms up it almost clears.


I am not to familiar with these vehicle's so hoping for some direction from this site.


Thanks in advance Ade

Regarding the poor starting get the hot plugs checked out. As too the passenger side smoke, before checking exhaust manifold, check the Auxiliary heater under passenger side floor for this smoke.

Thanks will feed back and let you know with the plugs, regarding the smoke there appears to be a lot of soot in the area of the bulk head too so would this still be the auxiliary heater.

Wrong post

Update, changed the glow plugs all were OK except the 4th one I am guessing who ever serviced it didn't want to strip the alternater off I can understand why lol now starts fine fingers crossed but still cannot identify the smoke under the bonnet as it's to thick when you rev it to see or breath lol, are they prone to leaking from the manifold on the passage side at all.
thanks again in advance for you guidence very much appreciated.

Ade

I wonder if you have a similar problem to what I have just had, where the EGR pipe had fractured, though mine gave a lot of noise but very little smoke.

Your starting issue may also be fuel pressure related, as common rail diesels are a lot easier to start with faulty glow plugs than a traditional diesel.
If you still have starting issues after replacing the glow plug then next thing to look at will be how long it takes the fuel pressure to rise

Richard

Was just thinking same thing Richard its like your repair. As to rail pressure issues here we go again. There's the sensor, relief valve, drain off hoses, injectors, etc, etc...
Where's the puller Scotsman 4th. Lets get hands dirty.

Hi both as I mentioned the cold starting seems to be cured and drives great with no smoke or hesitation have left it overnight 14 hours between starts and no issue if the fuel pressure was dropping I would have thought that would have shown it.

oh no
 

OK I found the leak it was a split ecr pipe fixed and welded so that's gone away, car ran fine no problem yesterday started and away then this morning would not start again just cranking over, gutted now.
started it with easy start one little squib and away it went. Again no starting problems again through out today.
Any ideas where to spend my money next please need confidence before I give it the wife and 3 kids to use.
thanks in advance for any answers.

Unfortunately lost in a motorbike accident that took out the garage.

I am guessing they are a bit of a mare to remove then the old injectors.

Yep, the timing belt snapped on mines and I had to order an injector puller from America (genuine miller tools one for the voyager).
There's a copy avaliable on ebay these days, for a little over £100. Don't know the quality of them though.
Mines was used on around 12 cars, and had a 100% success rate. If I see another genuine one on ebay, I'll probably buy it.

I'll bet your fuelfilter housing is leaking "air in fuel line over night. It's common on 2.8CRD becourse 2.8 dosen't have a electric fuel prime pump like on the 2.5. You can change the filter housing or get a re. fit kit with pump and harness like on the 2.5CRD high output.

If you got injector leaking "or bad return valve" and get low fuel rail pressure ,the engine control will set an error.The 2.5 model will flash the pre.glow light.Think 2.8 got an engine light.

Hi the fuel filter housing you mentioned the re fit do you know where i ca get one from.
thanks
Ade

You can get filter housing on Ebay or by the dealer it will cost you 100£ . The trick is internal in the housing some thing goes loos when removing the old filter and it's not possible to fix it. Hear in Denmark we have change a lot of filter housings (The top where the prime pump is placed).

I once saw a OEM kit in germany with a electric pump and harness made to 2.8CRD I'll try look up the number.

The electric pump on the 2.5CRD is only running about 5 sec. when engine is running the pump is off.

You could try prime the filter before starting , just to rule out the possible Air problem in fuel line.

2.8's have a hand primer pump just central between the RAD and the engine block, if you can push it till it gets hard and stays hard you don't have leak back.

Hi if I prime the pump it goes hard but never stays hard how would I recognise an injector leaking as it drive great once it fires and starts great everytime when it's warm, when it's hard to start and it finally does its a bit smokey and lumpy for 10 seconds then clears and never smokes again would this be the symptoms of a failing housing.

Thanks
Ade

It's a lot of guess. I think your glowplugs is failling.

If a injector has realy bad leakback you will get a low rail pressure error.

How is your leakback from injectors ?

How high is rail pressure in idle ?

How is you prop. valve running in idle high end or low end ?

If you pressure valve on the rail is leaking your prop. valve is running high.

If it a bad spray hmm , pull out all injectors and and connect them to rail and connect wire. And turn engine and see spray pattern (por man's way) watch out don't stand in line of fire it's very high pressure.

Common rail system is quit simple , it's just so much easy if you got a DRB tester.

HI I have only just changed the glow Plugs 2 weeks ago 3/4 were ok but I changed for new anyway I also checked all the supply to them it was all fine, I checked my oil level and it seems high but I will change the oil the weekend and see if its the previous owner overfilling or if the diesel is leaking into the bores.
The DRB machine you mention is this the same as an OBD2 Code scanner? I have access to one of these through my neighbour.
I plan to check the returns the weekend and see if I have issues.

You already have an ODB2 scanner, search this site for > key dance <

A DRB III is an excellent old school scanner and harder to find than rocking horse cack, if you did find one in good knick they will still cost you in the region of £1000 last time I noticed one go on ebay, as far as I'm aware they are so rare even main stealers share them for example 1 scanner per 50 dealers. The STARSCAN and the StarMobile superseded them, the Witech is the new kid on the block, and costs a couple of thousand dollars. Best of luck.

RG diesel Bad cold start
 

If you can't see prop.valve value or rail pressure

I would try the injector leak back test.

I all ways wondering how mutch engine oil it takes , My 2.5CRD only take 4,75 -5 litters the manual said 6,5 litters . My engine run very unstable if I fill 6 - 6,5 litters. If I ad around 5 litter it's okay.

Been running 300000km with 5 litter oil 5/40 Elf NF900.

Better be a little low on oil in a turbo engine then to high.

DRB III it's handy there is so manny parameters to look at , I never try the OBD tester I got DRB III why settle with sec.best.

Bad start could be.

Air flow not right , prop valve stuck or worn. rail pressure not right.

Air in fuel line ,(bad filter housing) I once made a clear fuel line to the Hi.pressure pump to see if we had air in the line (a lot) turn out the filter housing had a leak. Manny seals is tight to pressure but not to vaccum.

If you got white smoke it could be a injector leak or wors a headgasket.

You need to find root case to white smoke / bad cold start. It's likly your injectors but there could be another cause why inj. is worn(bad spray pattern) or leaking when left over night.

The amount I've heard that white smoke is due to injectors is a myth as its purely down to no preheaters and a cold engine. White smoke is not fully burnt fuel in the exhaust fumes. I could show you film of 1700hp and 2700hp diesel engine loco's, 4/5/6 in a line, starting up from cold in a frosty winter morning and guess what, its white smoke, not black or grey. These engines have no preheaters or electronics until the later engines with full electronic control came along. Black smoke was made by opening up the power controller whereby injecting more fuel which didn't fully get burnt. Check this up at a Railway Station and see what I mean.

tough day
 

OK not the best day lol
1, egr pipe fixed with quik steel seems to last according to the reviews but car stinks now hope it goes soon as can't let the wife in it like that lol.
2, i thought this had fixed the exhaust gases or so it seemed but then realised it had 2 leaks second one was the joint between the turbo and manifold 2 back nuts were loose tightened those but still get a smell under the bonnet massively reduced but still there, looked everywhere not a clue.
3, did leak back test on Fuel pressure relief valve it leaks on cranking and is a steady flow on tick over, I am hoping this is my starting issue as I like tinkering with cars but I also like to see a benefit and this car is slowly beating me lol.
So any words of wisdom and motivation would be appreciated.
thanks
Ade

If it leaks on cranking the pressure in the rail is not being attained, pressure sensor notices this and sends signal to ECU to stop injectors injecting. How much should this leak off be at tick over depends on pressure in rail. Simple option is to check side by side with another engine my confirm this. Either that of connect test equipment.
Sounds like you need a new relief valve as looks like you've found your starting issue.

The amount of fuel in the leak back should be equal on all injectors. A coffe cup in around 60 sec. aprox. The amount is not so important it's the different.

It dosen't make sens to messure when cranking you must crank a long time. Idle 900-1000 RPM when you will get true reading.

White smoke in unburnt diesel and with working plowplugs it could for sure be a injector with a bad spray pattern..

If back leak is to high your rail pressure could be to low and injector won't work. Common rail injector still work like a old style injector to over come the spring load inside .

OK so now I am confused, I was under the impression the relief valve at the end was only supposed to open when it exceeds the recommended pressure in the rail (such as letting off after heavy acceleration ) which is surely not achieved during cranking and tick over, now diesel voyager you are saying it should be leaking on tick over a coffee cup worth.
can anyone clarify before I spend £100 tomorrow.

I would say get a new pressure relief valve (to start with). None starting issues and shutting down under load have been accrued to this valve. And Injectors with too much fuel leak off. The thing is you are getting somewhere that looks to an end. Either that or stick it in a garage and get a loan.

Thanks it's not that I am not grateful for the advice just guess when you get contradicting information it takes my confidence away regards the car, that I will ever resolve the issues lol.
just another note it's never failed when driving but has since yesterday played up staring when warm which till today has not been an issue.
Does anyone recommend a place to by these valves from.

You can get the rail valve on ebay mopar no 5093924AB.