Front Blower Motor Quit
 

I have a 2002 Chrysler T&C LXI I left the windows open overnight and it rained. The cabin got wet but I did get it dried out. The only problem that I can find is that my front blower motor for the automatic climate control will not work. I can feel cold air from the vent while driving so the AC is working but the blower wont come on to move the air.

All of the other controls work just fine including the rear blower. I checked the fuse box under the hood and all were OK so I replaced the blower resistor module which sits just behind the glove box. I still get nothing from the blower.

Anybody got any other ideas other than replacing the blower? I'm trying not to do that unless I have to. Is there any way to test the blower without taking it out?

best thing to do is see if U get the power and ground at the motor connector if U do then possibly the motor is locked up due to the water in the motor.

Front Blower Motor Replacement 2002 Town and Country Van
 

OK..so I tested the connector for the motor and have power. Bought a new front blower motor from the local Chrysler dealer, plugged it in and it works. Now for the big problem, actually installing the motor.

I must note, all of this works easier if you have the glove box out first. You just open the door, pinch the sides and it falls open. Be careful unhooking it from the hinge but it shouldn't be difficult to get the glove box door out of the way.

There is a housing that has to be removed. Believe it or not, this is the toughest part of the whole job. This housing has an actuator on the bottom of it and this is what creates the "recirculation" mode. There are 2 hex screws (5/16 or 5.5mm) that have to be removed. The front screw is easy enough. The back screw is a bit harder because the whole component sits so close to the floor it is hard to get a socket on the screw. I used an open end wrench.

Once you have the actuator off, you have to pop the rotating door gear up and out of the the housing. I used a screw driver and punch to do this but you need to be sure to do this at this point otherwise you will have problems later. Next, you have to remove the housing screws which are the same size as the actuator screws so you can use the same wrench or socket. This is where the fun comes in. There are 6 screws and the first five can be accessed and removed without much difficulty. It is the last screw that is the problem.

There is one screw in the very back that is almost impossible to get out. It is right next to the firewall which has a thick padded insulation that the screw head is jammed into. To make matters worse, there is no room to get a socket, wrench or even a pair of needle nose plier into. Due to the angle of the floor pan and proximity to the firewall, if you can reach the screw, there is no way to get any leverage.

I tried using a swivel or knuckle but that didn't work. You have to find a flexible extension (a bendable gooseneck) that I found at Sears Hardware ($10/ea). They only had a 4" extension so I got 2 just in case (1/4" drive). It was a good thing because I ended up connecting both together to reach the screw. Once I got that last *&((&$@ screw out the rest was relatively easy.

The only other problem is getting the motor wires out of the housing as they go through a hole in the side and there is a rubber grommet pressed into the hole as a sealer. I just took a pair of wire cutters and cut the housing from the top down to the wire so I could take the grommet and wire off of the housing. From there, removing the three screws holding the blower motor (same size as the others) was no problem and the blower slid right out.

I replaced the blower motor, plugged it into the connector and tested to make sure it worked...it did. From there, I unplugged the connector, re-assembled the housing (be sure to get the gear for the rotating door back in place first), I have to admit that I didn't bother replacing the last screw in the back, replaced the actuator and plugged everything back in. All work well now.

One more thing. There is a cabin filter that is located just to the left of the blower motor assembly. While you are under the dash I would highly recommend replacing this filter as it gets clogged and can restrict airflow. I found mine was filthy and contained debris such as leaves and pine needles. It slides in in and out vertically and can be accessed by popping off the thin cover with a screwdriver.

your welcome

Front screw removal
 

On my 2001 Chrysler T&C Ltd AWD, you can access that front, top mounted, screw from the top right speaker hole. I had to remove the pillar trim on both sides and then I could remove the speaker/defroster dash panel. Unscrew and remove the speaker. Then we used 1/4" drive flexible (spring) extensions with a couple of solid extensions with a deep 8MM socket. After digging out most of the insulation from around the top mounted front screw, one of us held the socket on the screw head while the other operated the ratchet. We have no plans to replace the screw. The other four should hold the Recirc Panel Door as it is very light. One other thing, the Recirc Door Panel can be punched out of the lower housing, as it just snaps in. But be very careful as the three sided Recirc mount on the bottom of the lower panel is fragile.

I'm having the same issue. I'm trying to test the power to the blower motor and want to make sure that I'm testing the correct wires. It looks as if the power should be the green and black wires just behind the glove box. Is this correct?

Green is power Black is ground :) Unplug it first, check the green for power. If you probe it with it plugged in you'll see power at both wires and it will throw you off..lol

blower fan 2011 town and counry
 

the fan in the front, the rear works fine, quit working, checked the fuse and it is fine, don't know where the relay is for it or if there is one, or if it is the blower and where is that located