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-   Chrysler Voyager & Town & Country (https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/)
-   -   Grand Voyager Wheel Bearing / Hub Replacement (https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/chrysler-voyager-town-country-21/grand-voyager-wheel-bearing-hub-replacement-19435/)

travelmad Apr 8, 2013 04:41 AM

Grand Voyager Wheel Bearing / Hub Replacement
 
Quick question to those who have had experience with hub/bearing replacements.

On my Grand voyager I had to replace one of the front bearings at the weekend. Watched a pretty useful video on youtube.
Took a while to get the old one out but it came eventually, cleaned the knuckle since there was a little corrosion visible. The video that I watched says when fitting the new one, it will be a tight fit and you should turn each of the four bolts to pull the hub in square. My new hub/bearing went in easily (didn’t need to pull it in), which leaves me wondering if the knuckle needs replacing??

goggs Apr 8, 2013 03:52 PM

Wheel Bearing.
 
Hi Travelmad.
Your option here is to clean inside of knuckle and lock in new bearing with studlock or the like. Not so easily to knock it back out though.
Haven't checked out the workshop manual proceedure but from what you are saying the bearing is locked in by the backplate with the four securements.
Normal wheel bearing have to be drifted out then the new one pressed in squarely. A big vice can normally do this.
Goggs...

travelmad Apr 9, 2013 04:09 AM

The bearing comes as a hub/bearing assembly, and does not need to be pressed in.
If you watch this video @ 9 mins
when the new hub is fitted, each of the 4 bolts is used in turn to pull the bearing in sqaurely.
For me the bearing was flush with the knuckle without using the bolts. Suggesting either the new bearing is too small or the intenal dimension of the knuckle has increased after cleaning it.


goggs Apr 10, 2013 04:57 AM

hub bearing.
 
Hi, from what your saying about bearing turning in hub it sounds like a previous bearing has overheated, partly locked up and started turning/slipping in the knuckle. Looks like your going to need a complete knuckle/bearing assembly for repair...
Goggs.

goggs Apr 11, 2013 04:03 PM

Bearing Replacement.
 
Hi, just watched video, god it couldn't be any easier. Gone is the job of knocking the bearing out of the knuckle or hub and pressing a new one in, as the bearing is in a housing thats bolted to the knuckle. Surprised he didn't put a film of copper slip inback of brake disc though, to avoid rust and aid in disc removal. As well as between disc and wheel of course as alloy wheels seem to like sticking to discs like glue...
Goggs.

sundowners Aug 9, 2013 01:26 PM

Hi
I am just preparing to do this job-----(even bought a new torque wrench:))
On the clip he doesn't say the torque setting for the 32mm hub nut----anyone any idea??
Nigel & Pamala

georgef Aug 9, 2013 08:35 PM


Originally Posted by sundowners (Post 72414)
Hi
I am just preparing to do this job-----(even bought a new torque wrench:))
On the clip he doesn't say the torque setting for the 32mm hub nut----anyone any idea??
Nigel & Pamala

The torque spec is as follows:
1984 thru 2007 is 180 lbs-ft (244 Nm)
2008 thru present is 118 lbs-ft (160 Nm)

George

sundowners Aug 10, 2013 04:20 PM


Originally Posted by georgef (Post 72429)
The torque spec is as follows:
1984 thru 2007 is 180 lbs-ft (244 Nm)
2008 thru present is 118 lbs-ft (160 Nm)

George

Thanks for that
Nigel

sundowners Aug 28, 2013 04:36 PM

Hi
I got around to fitting a front wheelbearing assy yesterday-----it went much easier than I expected:D:D-------My torque-wrench is not big enough for the big centre nut so I did it very tight with my 3ft breaker bar (tighter than it was)
Nigel & Pamala


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