Hi Guys 3.3L in the UK
after some advice, my temperature guage starts cold and runs to mid point.

however i believe fans not kicking in. and yesterday, when temperature at normal, car just cut out and would not start (slowed to a stop with quite a metal on tarmac grinding noise!). Bonnet was almost too hot to open and could smell and feel heat.

would not restart but turned over.

had some cold water and put in expansion tank. left ten minutes then restarted fine. managed to limp it home cutting engine at trafffic lights. took about 1.5L water. checked later and water near top of radiator.

when i got back undid front grill and light, and checked power to fan resistor relay, power in fine. jumped the 2 thick wires and fan runs ok. aircon not currently working on my car (just purchased) so cant tell if module is sent a signal to turn fans on.

i have a few questions...
does it sound likely fan module and anyone know supplier in the uk?
why would the temp guage say normal..does it work if water a little low in Radiator?
the grinding noise not sure what it was (did sound like a chain dragging along tarmac about 3 seconds), thought crankcase broken open and all the oil spilled. checked oil that looks ok and normal.. this car is noisy pulley end, was told the aircon compressor pulley seized, hoping its this or the alternator and not chain.

for now going to put a jumper wire and switch in grill on fan to continually run (need to use car).

could the water pump have gone? not sure how this would stop fans running and give a normal temperature reading.

was going to order temperature sensor (cant find it under bonnet) and a fan module but Chrysler have pulled out the UK, so parts here not easy to get.

thank yo for any help, a grand voyager fan but this car is starting to test me!!

Steve
UK
3.3 Auto grand voyager limited XS, converted to run LPG/gas too.

 

First off the temp gauge reading is TYPICAL of all the vans...NOT a precise read. And I hope you are using some antifreeze along with water! Modern engines do NOT do well on straight water!
How long have you been driving with the MIL(CEL) illuminated? YES it is quite probable that the control module mounted to the bumper is bad, and this will also prevent a/c operation. Lastly not knowing year or mileage of the van, YES the water pump may have gone bad.

You can get most codes from the computer by learning the "key dance" trick using the ignition key sequence to do that, it should help you a lot in tracking down most concerns!

 

The classic cause of this overheating is usually - antifreeze/anticorrosive not been replaced when it should,-- aluminum radiator core all plugged up with ally corrosion which can't be cured.
How to check for sure -- remove top and bottom hoses from radiator and see if you can blow through it through the top. There shouldn't be much resistance.
I found this out when I first got my GV. You'll have to deal with the wide-open thermostat too. See my posting on the subject.
The correct antifreeze for ally rads. is the HOAT type. It should be changed every five years or less. If it proves your rad. is blocked, you're looking at around £300-£350 cost for a DIY job.
Leedsman.

 

Had an old range rover once with a blocked radiator.
The top radiator hose was rock solid and couldn't be compressed much when it was up to temperature, and the bottom of the radiator was cold whilst the top was hot.
Replacement radiators on ebay for around £50 or a little bit more.

The issue never really showed itself when running normally, only when towing or under some other load, and the temperature gauge did go above normal.

 

hi
thank you for replies.
a bit more info. car has done 117k miles, runs lpg and petrol (same issues on either)
i have fitted a temporary switch to turn on fans, while i wait for a fan module.
i can see the coolant sensor behind the coil pack? tried pressing/pulling but cannot get off the plug...how does this undo?. removed 1 HT cable to see but access difficult.

when getting hot (very hot!), temperature guage did read just under mid way

i have tested the ground to the fan module and that is okay.
however also put a test light (and to batt positive) to what should be pulsed ground on fan module connector and that does not light up engine running aircon switch on so not sure yet what is wrong with aircon.
if aircon compressure is faulty does the ECO close it all down?. with a faulty compressor should i get a signal a the fan module?

another problem (for another thread) car will not rev past 3500 rpm, chugs and just will not go. however car drives fine upto 3500 rpm was going to check wiring harness by manifold? and perhaps buy a second hang coil pack?

steve