rear brake replacement help on 2008 T&C
 

Hey guys,

Am replacing rear pads and rotors and wanted to ask if anyone could advise if rear brake cables need to be disconnected from calipers before removing calipers from the caliper bracket. If yes, what is the procedure in doing so. First time with the Chrysler system and not yet familiar with the process. Thanks very much if anyone can help.

Lou

No......they do not have to be removed.

Thank you. Saved lots of time and hassle. Forgot to add about turning the driver and passenger side caliper pistons back in. Clockwise or counterclockwise. Thiy're near the end of their travel and am afraid of popping them out too far if I turn the wrong way or I would just try both ways if I they were more inboard. Thanks again.

Lou

You'll need a special tool for them. Parts stores who rent tools should have one.

Yeah, got the tool. Just need to know which way to turn each side to get them back into the calipers. Can you advise? Thanks.

Lou

Should be clockwise. The tool should be threaded in that direction.

Worked like a charm. Clockwise on both sides. Thanks for that.
Will be trying CRC's synthetic/moly brake grease for the sliders, pins, and other metal to metal contact points vs Never Seize which I have used in the past with success. Any opinion on one vs the other would be appreciated. Have to use something as the rotors required a sledgehammer to get them off (after a few of our Northeast winters applied their effect to the metal)! Thanks again.

Lou

Either is fine, just don't use anything in a spray you can't control where it goes.

The minor issues continue. After bottoming the LR caliper piston in its bore and reassembling the caliper, when depressing the service brake, the piston will come out to engage the inboard brake pad but will retract fully into the bore upon release. Never heard of this before. It should stay out somewhat. Also, the e-brake will work when activated but the LR caliper piston will not advance the inner pad enough to contact the rotor. And upon release, the piston will retract back into the piston bore as it should.
Any idea what's going on? I was able to get it all to work by turning the piston back out of the bore about 1/2 turn. I also heard a click inside the piston. Am I ok to use it now or will the piston/e-brake cease to function in the future as the pads wear and the free space increases. Thanks for any advice if you can help. Someone told me to make sure the piston recesses are aligned vertically in the bore to make the e-brake work right. Is this correct? Also, there are no tabs on the pads to fit into the piston recesses.

Lou

For next time, NEVER reverse the direction of a piston.... There is No need to bottom the piston out. Only turn it in enough to clear the new pads.

Using a 13mm wrench, Work the e-brake levers at the caliper,,, 120 or 130 pumps should do it.....It will ratchet out to meet the rotor . Just a note...the right side nut will loosen when you pull on it with the wrench....Just tighten it back up and continue.
On anything EXCEPT a CHRYSLER....Yes this is true.....We dont have tabs, and ...Technically, the ebrake will work with the piston in any position, But Vertical is preferred, because that is where the "WORM GEAR" on the piston "STARTS".

It can be very intimidating at first, but once you see how it works , you will understand....

Thanks for the response. Both sides were already back together and I'd driven about 20 miles. Can I work the e-brake by foot in the vehicle or do I need to remove the wheel and tire again and disconnect the cable from the e-brake lever to perform what you're saying with the wrench and e-brake lever nut. If I will need to do it by removing the wheel again, will I just use the wrench to turn the nut holding the e-brake lever to the worm screw which will thus turn the worm screw? The right side seems fine and needs no attention.
Did I cause any damage to the piston by working back out of the bore (max was about 1/4 to 1/2 turn)? Will the e-brake system continue to function properly going forward, at this point, if I work the piston out to meet the rotor as you suggest? Many thanks again.

Lou

Can anyone comment on the last few issues? Thanks.

I wouldnt recommend doing it the car, For the simple fact that you probably wont be able to walk for a week

Yep.....
Not at all... The only problem is increasing your Workload, As the piston moves outward away from the wormgear, and takes that much more adjustment to Mesh them back together.

yes....

Remember to use your E-brake at least 3 to four times a week, to maintain adjustment....Even if you just set and release when you park it for the night, it will make a world of difference.

What's the easiest way to disconnect the e-brake cable from the lever so that I can turn the nut? Many thanks.

Lou

You Dont have to....leave it right where it is, and Just Work the nut back and forth, What you are doing is basically simulating ebrake Actuation....But, since your Pedal is "Press To Release"...The ratcheting effect would take forever to accomplish 30 seconds of work under the car.

Tried the technique on the caliper lever nut to no avail. Rotated it about 150 times and the free play between the pads and rotor did not change (still about 1/16 to 1/8 inch). When I step on the service brake or on the e-brake, though, both are doing their jobs of locking up the wheel sufficiently so we must be there already. Will check again in 3-5000 mi to confirm that the piston is moving outward to take up the clearance from wear and that the e-brake is actually still working on the LR caliper and ratcheting out.
Thanks again for all your time and direction. Really helped a lot.

Lou

Follow up to this thread as some time has passed. Have about 25,000 mi on the rear brakes now, and was hearing some noise from the LR so decided to check for wear, etc. Much to my surprise, the LR brake pads were not nearly as worn as the RR. Also, the LR e-brake cable functions but the caliper piston does not even reach the pad. The RR cable and caliper work fine. As such, I have a LR not completely functioning caliper. Can anyone tell me how to adjust the piston, if possible, to get it working again. Also, the e-brake spring which is worn, does not pull the caliper lever all the way back to its stop when the e-brake is in the released position. Could that have affected the piston adjustment as time and miles went by. I have another thread posted about the e-brake caliper spring.
The LR service brake functions seemingly ok, but the caliper piston travel is great due to the high clearance with the pad. How can I close the gap? Do I have to replace the caliper (at some expense). Thanks for any help guys.

Can anyone help with any advice regarding this situation? Thanks.

Well, when in doubt as to the function of a rear caliper, it turns out the best solution was actually to replace the caliper. It really wasn't that expensive and definitely a no brainer if you have an extended warranty. Caliper was replaced and it is amazing how much the braking has improved. If anyone has this issue: Replace don't repair. Good luck.