stalls in first mile until warm
 

[:-] I have an '00 Town & Country LXI which I love. 90,000 miles. It has begun stalling once or twice in the first mile before it warms up and then runs fine. I am first determining that I didn't get some bad gasoline because I filled up at a place for the first time. I also changed the air filter. Any ideas beyond that? Also, is there a way to read the codes on this vehicle by pressing radio buttons simultaneously or whatever? Can someone tell me how this is done. Thanks much!

RE: stalls in first mile until warm
 

if u dont have a check engine light on the u dont have codes that are active

RE: stalls in first mile until warm
 

Will it die if you just let it sit and idle as well? Is there a fuel smell coming out of the exhaust pipe in those first few minutes? Since it is a warm up problem, I wonder if there might be a bad heater in the oxygen sensor. That would explain why the problem goes away after the engine warms up, but it is by no means the only possibility. I'm not extremelywell-versed in O2 sensor failures, but a more typical symptom seems to be theengine hunting for the right RPM, as the O2 sensor is used to help determine the current air/fuel ratio. Also, if this was the case, I would tend to think a DTC code would get set, but I'm just not sure of what the requirements are to set an oxygen sensor DTC.

If you want to test the oxygen sensor, here's a couple of sites that talk about how to do so:

O2 Sensor Info/Testing
Testing O2 Sensors

The O2 sensor is just aft of the catalytic converter. I was looking around this weekend on my '97 T&C, and couldn'tsee one before the catalytic converter, which surprises me as I thought it would have needed one. Perhaps it was hidden somewhere I couldn't see.

CHRYSLER TECH,

I thought the check engine light only came on for OBDII-specific DTC's, although I could be wrong. Using the ignition on-off-on-off-on sequence and watching for the check engine light blinks (with a pause between the two digits for the codes) will flash some of the non-OBDII codes, such a the battery disconnected in the last 50 cycles (only one I've had yet), followed by the code 55, signifying the end of the sequence of codes. Of course, you probably don't mess around with that, since you have access to your DRB III scan tool I presume :D(Only a $6000 tool)

Have you done the "key dance" to pull any codes yet? It could be symptomatic of an EGR valve going bad. Not sure how totest this item- see here for more info: Rough, erratic idle until warmed up

Chad