I bought this 2008 Pacifica that had a problem with a bad ground. The headlights, horn, radio, ac, turn signals and wipers did not work and you had to push in this yellow button thing to get it out of park. It would start and drive, just with all those issues. The guy I bought it from sent me a link to a video of a guy who had one with the EXACT same issues and he tracked it down to the few cluster of wires that were suppose to be grounded to the inside of the engine compartment by above the driver's side wheel well. The video showed him wiggle the wires and the just broke completely free of the bolt they were suppose to be connected to. So I figured for $500, the worst is it'll go to scrap yard and I might be out 1 or 2 hundred. So I bought it and got it home and wiggled the wires and just like in the video, they broke. It was very difficult to work in the area but I eventually got them stripped back and re fastened to the bolt.I THINK SECURELY. . I don't know what is going to be relevant information and what isn't but I am going to try and be as detailed as possible to hopefully get answer that is going to fix it. So a long with the ground wires, some other things that may play a part is the connector to the positive side of the battery was actually for the negative side so it didn't fit right so I bought these connectors off temu that are like the quick release levers for a bicycle seat or wheel but they are for a battery. Someone said since it's aluminum it wasn't good for that purpose. I do have to jump start it frequently. Well I did, until I list my key and fob. So the guy that came out to make me a key and fob programed the new one and reset all the codes(I haven't the first idea of what they were). That seemed to take care of the battery problem. Also it says that it has a sealed transmission but the plug that is suppose to be in the spout in place of the dipstickis gone! The previous owner told me it was missing ever since he bought the car for his wife. So no biggie I told myself. I did watch a video about that and on it a man said the sealed transmission thing is just a way for the manufacturers to make sure the dealerships get more money because of price drops in car sales. And said there is NO RESSON AT ALL the consumer wouldn't be able fo general maintenance (adding fluid, changing the fuid and and filter etc. Almost every light that could be on is on, and the information center says 2 tires need air. So the problem is that the transmission keep going into limp mode randomly while I'm driving or when i come to stop. And I know it's went in this mode because it makes a pretty loud clunk noise and kinda jerks forward. Then it will not shift out 2nd gear. Also when it is in this mode it will not let me manually shift it either. The numbers that show up beside the P R N D won't even show up. As soon as I pull over and put it in park, shut the key off, and restart it
It will shift normally for a while. NOT LONG AT ALL REALLY. 2 FIVE YOU AN IDEA I WENT TO HET MY GRANDSON AND HE LIVES 3.2 MILES FROM ME?(IN TOWN?)AND I HAD TO PULL 9VER 6 TIME. IT MAY BE ALL IN MY HEAD, but it seems to be more frequent the longer I drive or let it run. I added one quart of Lucas treatment in it and I thought it fixed it but it didn't. I don't know the codes that came up but the key grid said he reset them but when I got in to drive it the✓engine light, ABS,tire pressure, oil, esp/bas, stability control, brake, and air bag lights are all on and stay on. One more thing, when I use jumper cables the negative side of the cables gets VERY HOT.
I've either went far enough into the details for someone to be able to tell me what the problem is or quite possibly I've went too far and left everyone reading this scratching Thier heads and went on to the next issue! This is my first time posting something here so my apologies if I didn't do it right. Any feedback will be appreciated and hopefully it's not too harsh.

 

Suggestion - Break the long run-on text into paragraphs. The large block of text is very difficult to read and understand.

Chryslers do not tolerate a low voltage condition well and will exhibit all sorts of weird and random behaviors. Since you have already noted a bad/broken ground I would suggest inspecting all of the engine compartment ground points to be certain they are corrosion-free and secure. A poor/missing ground will cause a low voltage condition as the current flow is restricted. Pay particular attention to any braided ground straps. This could possibly be a cause of the hot negative cable.

Check both ends of the battery cables to be certain they are corrosion-free and secure.

Suggest having the battery and charging system professionally tested, something is not right,

Once the electrical system is in good shape, it will be time to pull the diagnostic codes from the various control modules. Note the codes do not identify a particular part to replace but get one started in diagnosing the actual problem. The transmission diagnostic codes will identify the condition that caused the limp mode (P0700 is a generic code, actual codes are P07xx) As noted before, a bad ground may cause diagnostic codes to set.

Suggest dropping the transmission pan and inspecting for metal chunks. A fuzzy magnet and gray slim on the pan is ok. Replace the filter and refill with licensed atf+4 only. No universal atf fluids and no snake oils (aka additives). These transmissions are known to like fresh atf+4 trans fluid.

Note how easy it was to read my post.