$1000 to fix washer pump?
 

Guys - maybe someone can help - the wiper pump wouldn't work on my 2005 Pacifica - which we love - 100,000 miles. My local mechanic bought new pump - wasn't it. He said it was (according to Chrysler) a tipum sensor?:confused: - part of the electronic module - replacement cost $1000.

No bad fuses.

Everything else works fine - I googled tipum - nothing - it can't be the tip sensor......

Any help would be great.

TIPM...

Totally integrated Power Module

I totally get it....so a $1000 TIPM controls the washer pump?

If that is so - I'll just hard wire it:cool:

Well - went to the shop - and I read alot of threads - my thought is it MIGHT be the tipm - as quite a few threads have started with tipm diagnosis but ended up with things like the ignition switch being the probem...plus tipm=definately having the dealer look at it=$$

Shop says no ground coming out of tipm for the pumps....

That phrase is a little vague, but I get what they're saying. Ground doesn't actually come from anywhere...lol

How are you planning to hardwire it? A toggle switch maybe? That would be the only way I could see. Until the ckt gets to the TIPM, it's all request signals. The TIPM does the work. Same goes for headlamps, tail lamps, wipers, etc. You rarely have any source power AT a switch anymore.

My threat to hardwire it came before I did any research - my favorite phrase is "How hard can it be?" I have looked at a handful of Mopar threads and there seems to be a recurring problem that the TIPM failure causes certain things not to operate - from fluid pumps to ac to starters - since everything runs through it. The only way to deal with the TIPM is go to a dealer - and for that you are looking at $1000 - which totally sucks - seeing as they want $200+ to run a diagnostic that takes 2 minutes....

It is not the pump - sometimes the above mentioned problems have been solved by replacing the ignition switch.....I am going on vacation and took the car back from the shop - not sure how to tackle it

But seriously - how hard would it be to simply run a hard wire with two switches - wired oppositely?

I believe the shop meant that the TIPM was not completing the circuit for the sprayer pump.

Its pretty easy access to the TIPM to check the pump ckts. I don't get the $200 diag charge really. The thing is, if you have the right scan tool capabilities then it's a pretty quick diagnosis. You watch for the request signal on the data and then actuate the TIPM outputs and probably jump the pump motor wires to check for operation. Just goes to show you how behind the times independent shops are these days. I get these repeats from them on a daily basis, sometimes multiple times.

Thanks for your attention - so what do you think it is? - The TIPM? And if it is - what is my remedy?

Hello all. Was browsing this site for remedy to front and rear washers not working on wifes 05 Pacifica. Was distressed to see it could be 1000 dollar nightmare. Here's how i fixed it.
Remove left front wheel.
Remove 3(maybe 4) screws from front edge of plastic inner fender well.No need to take the entire piece out so dont risk breaking the plastic push pins that go to the body toward the engine.
Pull the plastic piece out from behind the fender lip at the front bottom to maybe midway to the top of the fender lip
You will find the washer reservoir easily accessible between that fender well and the bumper
Mine has 2 motors.(1 rear 1 front I figured). Chances both were bad very low.
There are 2 wires going to each motor. One had a blk w/yell stripe and a blk. The other a purple and a black. Figured black was the common so should go to ground. I took a simple test lead with a bed of nails on one end to one of the black wires and put the other end directly to the neg of the battery.
Turned key to acc and tried the washers. Both were now working!
Since both worked w/ only the jumper on one of them, this meant they had a common ground point but the ground is not getting back to the battery. I found there are 3 body ground posts located under the battery tray. These were extremely corroded and the wires were just falling off the connector on 1 of them. Remove 2 screws on top of the headlight housing and slide it out to make it easier to get both hands in there. Remove the ground post nuts with 10mm socket. Clean the posts and connectors with a wire brush and reconnect. In my case the one connector had 7 wires going into it and was so bad it fell apart. Had to strip them back and put a new end on it, which wasnt easy in that tight spot. Made sure everything was still working and then put everything back together. Hope this saves you some money!
I left out the testing of the washer motors. if you want to test the motors just take a test lead from the battery positive and connect it to the colored wire at the washer motor while you have your good ground jumpered to the black wire. Or further to rule out the plug you can unplug the connector at the washer motor and go right to the pins of the motor. Be careful and support the washer housing with 1 hand while trying to wiggle the plug off. Mine were tough to get off and I can see something snapping if you're not careful. Hope this helps

I can see a dealer doing that after a new module doesn't cure the problem. But hey, times are tough and the profit off a $1000 item means the kids eat.