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04-08 Pacifica: FOUND Fixes for strange electrical issues

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Old Jul 4, 2022 | 04:45 AM
  #1  
darealSoulless's Avatar
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Exclamation 04-08 Pacifica: FOUND Fixes for strange electrical issues

Hey guys, just wanted to touch down once again on a problem I had with my 07 Pacifica, 4.0, FWD. This will be quite the wall of text but if you're having intermittent or strange electrical issues this is definitely worth a read because it may be the solution for all your issues. For cheap or nothing if you have a few basic tools handy. I've been working on Chryslers for years so if you have an electrical issue, just drop it in the replies for this thread and I can point you to a possible solution and provide you with some wiring diagrams as needed.

Basically the issue I had was random and strange electrical issues. I've gathered experience with problems like this before, I've owned cars as old as 1987 so finding gremlins is nothing new to me. I've been working on Chrysler products for about ten years and this fix has been a major breakthrough for a lot of people who otherwise would've scrapped their early to mid 00's Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep products.

On these, it seems especially with models from '01 to around 2010, or the era where Daimler was the parent company over Chrysler, whatever years, that a lot of these models have issues with their integrated (printed circuit board) and non-integrated (TIPM to harness to wherever) circuits. Issues in these systems (corroded wires, melted connectors, chafed wires, etc.) cause a whole host of strange problems and below I'll have outlined one specific example and what to do to fix it and general guidelines for anyone experiencing weird electrical problems like the one I had.

I have an '07 Pacifica, and live in an environment of extreme climate shift. It gets to be over 100 degrees here during the summer and below zero in the winter occasionally so the temp cycles just wreak havoc on the electrical systems not just in this car, pretty much any old(er) car. On my Pacifica, I noticed an issue where the cruise control would cancel itself, dash would flicker occasionally, and most notably when I would go to start my car when it was warm after getting a soda or refueling, the relays in the TIPM would do their thing, click, but the starter would weakly click one time and I did further diagnosis and confirmed that the battery was good, starter motor itself was good, as well as all related relays and fuses. Next move was the TIPM (fuse box) itself. I ordered a used one from a salvage Pacifica on eBay for about a hundred US dollars and begun to disassemble things. I pulled up a wiring diagram for the ground distribution circuit of the car and found there are three eyelets in the front left of the engine bay (roughly behind driver side headlight, below battery tray) that a lot of the major system grounds for this car attach to. There are also some underneath the air cleaner box on the passenger side. That can be removed via a couple screws, unhinging the top of the box, removing filter, then pulling the airbox out of its securing pins. On the motor mount, you'll notice a couple small wires that terminate to eyelets right near the motor mount on that side. I removed the drivers headlight and airbox and found some horribly corroded eyelets and on the three eyelets under battery tray (Grounds to frame rail up front, they're a bit buried so you may need a mirror or to look from below to be able to see them) I found that just touching them a time or two with my socket was enough to break a wire free. All I did to resolve all the electrical issues was just strip the wires back to a clean spot, add some heat shrink, then crimp all the wires to new eyelets. Two of the eyelets hold three wires each, then another slightly larger one holds two. I reconnected the eyelets and added some Fluidfilm to keep the corrosion at bay.

Next, I went up to my TIPM and removed the starter relay. I noticed one of the female connections (where the relay's prongs insert) had worn out and was a little wide. So I simply removed the fuse box lid, pushed the tabs/removed screws (the TIPM is super easy to remove on these) and lifted it up. There's a bunch of plugs on the back, just remove them all using the red push tab and off-white rotating lock pieces on each connector. Make sure to look down all the plugs, front and back, to make sure none of them have any corrosion on the pins that contact the leads on the back of each plug. Cars are relatively sensitive to poor grounds and they'll act weird if even just one circuit ground is corroded. Sometimes it'll work when the ground can backfeed through another circuit and sometimes it won't. (e.g. on my car when it got warm in the engine bay the grounds weren't satisfactory for a lot of my accessory systems as well as my starter circuit)

Wherever you find dirty connections, just clean as needed or goto the salvage yard and clip off a new connector from a similar vehicle to replace your nasty one with. Once you've got all your grounds in the engine bay as well as the TIPM connectors cleaned, perhaps even the module replaced like I chose to do, put everything back together and see what you got. For me after doing that, the car started like a champ and all electrical problems vanished. I also had a re-appearing check engine light issue that disappeared as well after doing this.

Before taking it into my own hands I had spent several thousand dollars with a mechanic (I hate working on my own cars, I don't get paid for it) trying to fix this issue to no avail. Then was able to fix it myself in one afternoon for about a hundred bucks. Needless to say that made me pretty mad. So hopefully to save that from happening to someone else or to save someone from having to buy a new car, I've decided to make this thread in hopes it's helpful for at least one person. As stated before, I've been working on car electronics for a long time now so if you have a Chrysler product with an electrical bug that you and your mechanic can't figure out, post a reply about it and I'll see what I can do to help.
 
Old Nov 29, 2022 | 09:54 PM
  #2  
Amartin453's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 3
Default Check Engine Light On

Over the past few years the check engine light has been on which is being caused by a cracked fuel pump/evap vent hose on top of the gas tank. Anyway, I’m tired of seeing the check engine light on and since it’s my beater car Im looking to permanently disable the light. Any suggestions on how to do this, can I simply pull a fuse?
 
Old Dec 19, 2022 | 02:06 AM
  #3  
fadiks's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 28
Default

At first the issue was discontinuous where the radio shut off, the air went off, power windows quit working, headlights quit working, and all pointers on the scramble enlightened. At the point when I left and took a gander at the vehicle, the haze lights just quickly flash. Issue has been going on more regularly. It appears as though it is an electrical thing. I took out the battery and cleaned the associations for the 3 ground focuses under the battery plate. Set up everything back, same issue. Are there some other ground focuses? It seems as though there is one on the motor, as well, however it has an odd sort of wire that simply interfaces it a couple crawls beneath. Understand more: https://www.city-data.com/discussion...al-issues.html
 
Old May 25, 2023 | 05:32 PM
  #4  
Lee.M.'s Avatar
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Joined: May 2023
Posts: 1
Default Chrysler Pacifica 2017 Electrical Problems

Hello,

Does this sound familiar to you? My vehicle's electrical interface seemed to stop working: my windshield wipers turned on, a series of messages lit up on my dash (check this and that type messages), my speedometer and RPM gauges went to zero, and all of the warning lights came on- Check Engine, Seatbelt, Airbag, Battery, etc. When I tried to shift into Park, the round shift **** locked in Neutral. The keyless ignition button did not respond when I tried to press it to turn off the engine. The power windows and AC still worked, and the engine remained on, and the parking brake still worked. After about 10 minutes, everything turned on again, and I drove home slowly on sidestreets avoiding highways. Then it happened again while driving. Once home, we had to manually disconnect something under the hood to get the engine to turn off. I am attaching photos of the dash, taken during the first and second incidents, as well as in between when the car seemed ok but kept giving me messages about temperature etc.

during first electrical shutdown

during first electrical shutdown

in between incidents

in between incidents

during second electrical shutdown
Any ideas? Thank you so much for your time.
 
Old Oct 8, 2023 | 12:11 PM
  #5  
SINCITY192's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 1
Default

Originally Posted by darealSoulless
Hey guys, just wanted to touch down once again on a problem I had with my 07 Pacifica, 4.0, FWD. This will be quite the wall of text but if you're having intermittent or strange electrical issues this is definitely worth a read because it may be the solution for all your issues. For cheap or nothing if you have a few basic tools handy. I've been working on Chryslers for years so if you have an electrical issue, just drop it in the replies for this thread and I can point you to a possible solution and provide you with some wiring diagrams as needed.

Basically the issue I had was random and strange electrical issues. I've gathered experience with problems like this before, I've owned cars as old as 1987 so finding gremlins is nothing new to me. I've been working on Chrysler products for about ten years and this fix has been a major breakthrough for a lot of people who otherwise would've scrapped their early to mid 00's Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep products.

On these, it seems especially with models from '01 to around 2010, or the era where Daimler was the parent company over Chrysler, whatever years, that a lot of these models have issues with their integrated (printed circuit board) and non-integrated (TIPM to harness to wherever) circuits. Issues in these systems (corroded wires, melted connectors, chafed wires, etc.) cause a whole host of strange problems and below I'll have outlined one specific example and what to do to fix it and general guidelines for anyone experiencing weird electrical problems like the one I had.

I have an '07 Pacifica, and live in an environment of extreme climate shift. It gets to be over 100 degrees here during the summer and below zero in the winter occasionally so the temp cycles just wreak havoc on the electrical systems not just in this car, pretty much any old(er) car. On my Pacifica, I noticed an issue where the cruise control would cancel itself, dash would flicker occasionally, and most notably when I would go to start my car when it was warm after getting a soda or refueling, the relays in the TIPM would do their thing, click, but the starter would weakly click one time and I did further diagnosis and confirmed that the battery was good, starter motor itself was good, as well as all related relays and fuses. Next move was the TIPM (fuse box) itself. I ordered a used one from a salvage Pacifica on eBay for about a hundred US dollars and begun to disassemble things. I pulled up a wiring diagram for the ground distribution circuit of the car and found there are three eyelets in the front left of the engine bay (roughly behind driver side headlight, below battery tray) that a lot of the major system grounds for this car attach to. There are also some underneath the air cleaner box on the passenger side. That can be removed via a couple screws, unhinging the top of the box, removing filter, then pulling the airbox out of its securing pins. On the motor mount, you'll notice a couple small wires that terminate to eyelets right near the motor mount on that side. I removed the drivers headlight and airbox and found some horribly corroded eyelets and on the three eyelets under battery tray (Grounds to frame rail up front, they're a bit buried so you may need a mirror or to look from below to be able to see them) I found that just touching them a time or two with my socket was enough to break a wire free. All I did to resolve all the electrical issues was just strip the wires back to a clean spot, add some heat shrink, then crimp all the wires to new eyelets. Two of the eyelets hold three wires each, then another slightly larger one holds two. I reconnected the eyelets and added some Fluidfilm to keep the corrosion at bay.

Next, I went up to my TIPM and removed the starter relay. I noticed one of the female connections (where the relay's prongs insert) had worn out and was a little wide. So I simply removed the fuse box lid, pushed the tabs/removed screws (the TIPM is super easy to remove on these) and lifted it up. There's a bunch of plugs on the back, just remove them all using the red push tab and off-white rotating lock pieces on each connector. Make sure to look down all the plugs, front and back, to make sure none of them have any corrosion on the pins that contact the leads on the back of each plug. Cars are relatively sensitive to poor grounds and they'll act weird if even just one circuit ground is corroded. Sometimes it'll work when the ground can backfeed through another circuit and sometimes it won't. (e.g. on my car when it got warm in the engine bay the grounds weren't satisfactory for a lot of my accessory systems as well as my starter circuit)

Wherever you find dirty connections, just clean as needed or goto the salvage yard and clip off a new connector from a similar vehicle to replace your nasty one with. Once you've got all your grounds in the engine bay as well as the TIPM connectors cleaned, perhaps even the module replaced like I chose to do, put everything back together and see what you got. For me after doing that, the car started like a champ and all electrical problems vanished. I also had a re-appearing check engine light issue that disappeared as well after doing this.

Before taking it into my own hands I had spent several thousand dollars with a mechanic (I hate working on my own cars, I don't get paid for it) trying to fix this issue to no avail. Then was able to fix it myself in one afternoon for about a hundred bucks. Needless to say that made me pretty mad. So hopefully to save that from happening to someone else or to save someone from having to buy a new car, I've decided to make this thread in hopes it's helpful for at least one person. As stated before, I've been working on car electronics for a long time now so if you have a Chrysler product with an electrical bug that you and your mechanic can't figure out, post a reply about it and I'll see what I can do to help.

Can you tell me if a 4.0l v6
chrysler Pacifica 07
has a ground wire on the passenger side Mount like the 3.5l engine have?
I’m having trouble after changing the head gasket and water pump it starts but only stays on if I keep giving it gas.
 
Old Jul 16, 2024 | 11:25 AM
  #6  
BornN2chrysler's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 2
From: Indiana
Default

Originally Posted by darealSoulless
Hey guys, just wanted to touch down once again on a problem I had with my 07 Pacifica, 4.0, FWD. This will be quite the wall of text but if you're having intermittent or strange electrical issues this is definitely worth a read because it may be the solution for all your issues. For cheap or nothing if you have a few basic tools handy. I've been working on Chryslers for years so if you have an electrical issue, just drop it in the replies for this thread and I can point you to a possible solution and provide you with some wiring diagrams as needed.

Basically the issue I had was random and strange electrical issues. I've gathered experience with problems like this before, I've owned cars as old as 1987 so finding gremlins is nothing new to me. I've been working on Chrysler products for about ten years and this fix has been a major breakthrough for a lot of people who otherwise would've scrapped their early to mid 00's Dodge, Chrysler, Jeep products.

On these, it seems especially with models from '01 to around 2010, or the era where Daimler was the parent company over Chrysler, whatever years, that a lot of these models have issues with their integrated (printed circuit board) and non-integrated (TIPM to harness to wherever) circuits. Issues in these systems (corroded wires, melted connectors, chafed wires, etc.) cause a whole host of strange problems and below I'll have outlined one specific example and what to do to fix it and general guidelines for anyone experiencing weird electrical problems like the one I had.

I have an '07 Pacifica, and live in an environment of extreme climate shift. It gets to be over 100 degrees here during the summer and below zero in the winter occasionally so the temp cycles just wreak havoc on the electrical systems not just in this car, pretty much any old(er) car. On my Pacifica, I noticed an issue where the cruise control would cancel itself, dash would flicker occasionally, and most notably when I would go to start my car when it was warm after getting a soda or refueling, the relays in the TIPM would do their thing, click, but the starter would weakly click one time and I did further diagnosis and confirmed that the battery was good, starter motor itself was good, as well as all related relays and fuses. Next move was the TIPM (fuse box) itself. I ordered a used one from a salvage Pacifica on eBay for about a hundred US dollars and begun to disassemble things. I pulled up a wiring diagram for the ground distribution circuit of the car and found there are three eyelets in the front left of the engine bay (roughly behind driver side headlight, below battery tray) that a lot of the major system grounds for this car attach to. There are also some underneath the air cleaner box on the passenger side. That can be removed via a couple screws, unhinging the top of the box, removing filter, then pulling the airbox out of its securing pins. On the motor mount, you'll notice a couple small wires that terminate to eyelets right near the motor mount on that side. I removed the drivers headlight and airbox and found some horribly corroded eyelets and on the three eyelets under battery tray (Grounds to frame rail up front, they're a bit buried so you may need a mirror or to look from below to be able to see them) I found that just touching them a time or two with my socket was enough to break a wire free. All I did to resolve all the electrical issues was just strip the wires back to a clean spot, add some heat shrink, then crimp all the wires to new eyelets. Two of the eyelets hold three wires each, then another slightly larger one holds two. I reconnected the eyelets and added some Fluidfilm to keep the corrosion at bay.

Next, I went up to my TIPM and removed the starter relay. I noticed one of the female connections (where the relay's prongs insert) had worn out and was a little wide. So I simply removed the fuse box lid, pushed the tabs/removed screws (the TIPM is super easy to remove on these) and lifted it up. There's a bunch of plugs on the back, just remove them all using the red push tab and off-white rotating lock pieces on each connector. Make sure to look down all the plugs, front and back, to make sure none of them have any corrosion on the pins that contact the leads on the back of each plug. Cars are relatively sensitive to poor grounds and they'll act weird if even just one circuit ground is corroded. Sometimes it'll work when the ground can backfeed through another circuit and sometimes it won't. (e.g. on my car when it got warm in the engine bay the grounds weren't satisfactory for a lot of my accessory systems as well as my starter circuit)

Wherever you find dirty connections, just clean as needed or goto the salvage yard and clip off a new connector from a similar vehicle to replace your nasty one with. Once you've got all your grounds in the engine bay as well as the TIPM connectors cleaned, perhaps even the module replaced like I chose to do, put everything back together and see what you got. For me after doing that, the car started like a champ and all electrical problems vanished. I also had a re-appearing check engine light issue that disappeared as well after doing this.

Before taking it into my own hands I had spent several thousand dollars with a mechanic (I hate working on my own cars, I don't get paid for it) trying to fix this issue to no avail. Then was able to fix it myself in one afternoon for about a hundred bucks. Needless to say that made me pretty mad. So hopefully to save that from happening to someone else or to save someone from having to buy a new car, I've decided to make this thread in hopes it's helpful for at least one person. As stated before, I've been working on car electronics for a long time now so if you have a Chrysler product with an electrical bug that you and your mechanic can't figure out, post a reply about it and I'll see what I can do to help.
Hello my mother has a Chrysler Pacifica 08' it's got an issue where many electrical components inside aren't working, gear is locked in park and lots of dash lights. I am slowly diagnosing it to fix myself. A shop told her to replace the tpim completely but I'd like to look at all her grounds etc and clean the connections to it. Can u send me the wiring diagrams u have for the tpim? Do u have one that shows all the grounds and where they go? It's a learning process. I've fixed many cars problems but the electrical I haven't ever tried to tackle but this time I'm going to. Thanks for any help you can give me.
 
Old May 31, 2025 | 03:13 PM
  #7  
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Joined: May 2025
Posts: 11
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Hello. I am new to the forum but not new to Chrysler! I have owned my 2006 Pacifica since late 2007.
I have been pretty happy with it, except for the high cost of parts etc.
I am currently having 2 electrical issues with the car.
1. the drivers side high beam does not work. I have swapped/replaced bulbs etc. but I can’t seem to get it to work.
2. the dash lights for the heater/air conditioner/fan controls work only intermittently. I have taken it apart and checked the connections/relays etc. and can sometimes get it to work but that only lasts for 20:minutes or as long as a couple of days.
Sometimes giving it a bang with my fist in the top right corner will result in them coming on for awhile.

I had the ground wires on the right side of the motor under the battery checked/repaired, hoping it would solve both problems but no luck.

Regarding the high beam problem, my next step was going to be to check the ground on the bulb socket, but I don’t know what color the ground wire is.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks
Bill
 
Old May 31, 2025 | 10:09 PM
  #8  
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Joined: May 2025
Posts: 11
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I decided to do some more checking on the problem of the driver side high beam not working.
I was able to determine that the ground wire was ok and that the problem is with the wire (white/grey stripe) that provides power to the bulb socket.
I traced it back until it went into the main harness but still no power.

The only solution I can think off is to run a wire all the way from the passenger side harness to the drivers side but there must be a better way.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or help.

Bill
 
Old May 31, 2025 | 10:26 PM
  #9  
CHRYSLER TECH's Avatar
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Posts: 9,135
From: Norcross GA
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The tipm aka the fuse box is what supplies power to the headlights
 
Old Jun 1, 2025 | 01:11 PM
  #10  
bhumeny's Avatar
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Joined: May 2025
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Thanks for your reply. I agree with you 100%.
But……. I doubt that there is a separate relay for each of the headlights and for each of the bright headlights. I will try and find a schematic for the fuse box to verify.

Bill
 



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