Loosen the rusted 32mm (1.26 ") nut behind the rim?
Hello.
I want to remove brake disc, half shaft etc. on the driver's side (not UK, Japan...), then remove the transmission. But the big nut is very tight. So far, I have sprayed rust remover, and even attached a small plastic bag with rust remover for a few hours (it leaks out). And I heated it up. My tool is a 32mm nut with 1/2 "and a 1/2" t-handle. And a big torque wrench from Hazet with 3/4" head But I only own a 1/2 "nut 32mm. And a adapter 3/4 "to 1/2". That is not enough. With extension, the tool may break. Even a simple 1/2" impact wrench with 12V does not solve it. I did not want to buy expensive special tools now. With a bit of luck, an impact wrench with 3/4 or 1 "for possibly $ 35 will be sold, but currently only new and expensive. I rarely need such "extreme tools". |
Should have broken loose the outer CV joint axle nut before raising it off the ground. Yes they can get "rusted"tight. but they are also torque spec tightened to around 130Ft/Lbs. A shot "T-handle" won't do the job, I use a 3 ft. long handled 1/2" drive breaker bar and sometimes slip an extension pipe over the breaker bar handle when things are "nasty"!
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Thats why i love my 1200 FT LB Milwaukee impact gun All electric baby ....
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Perhabs "Breaker Bar" is here "unusual" ;-) . I have now used Google Image Search.
EDIT: OK, this is a "flex head nut spanner". The first 1 inch with 100cm (~ 1 yard) for ~$70 free shipping. Without a nut... 3/4" with 61cm (2ft) for $28 free shipping. Actually, there is a ratchtet (I do not want to burden very much by extension), t-handle (movable 1/2" connector), extension, I have a Stahlwille 1/2" t-handle, and a extension pipe. I had tried it with a extension pipe, but i am afraid for my tool. It may be the world's best quality, but it can break (if extended). The 1/2" T-handle become a "curve". Not broken or defect, but it looks dangerous when you put weight on it. |
https://www.ebay.com/p/Snap-on-SHBB2...1787189&chn=ps
your wasting your time and money on crap that will not work. its simple physics. the more stuff you add onto your extensions and t handles the more torque you loose get a single handed 2ft or 3 ft 1/2 breaker bar and if needed use a pipe to add more torque. |
This is only 1/2".
My existing professional tool in 1/2-inch bends through. I gave it up before it broke. I thought of 3/4 or 1-inch. For example, here also a ~2ft long tool, but with 3/4": https://www.ebay.com/itm/282298929989 BGS is not Hazet, Stahlwile or Snap-On, but it is a known brand. Not with cheap crap image like "Brüder Mannesmann" (Brothers Mannesmann, not related with "Mannesmann" industrial conglomerate, known for iron pipes) etc.. Actually I fixed a plastic cap from a spray can with dough and a ferrucid in it. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.chr...7d2e22a89d.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.chr...e4c1ef0812.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.chr...04d09fef8f.jpg |
yeah man that tool is cheap if you can bend it with your hands its cheap. 1/2 inch it just the size of the socket end unless you have a socket with 3/4 or 1 in ends getting a bigger breaker bar wont do you any good.
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No, my tool is not "cheap", it is a 1/2 inch Stahlwille sliding t-bar (one of the most expensive tool brands).
Like this: https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/...iding-T-Handle But with a extension (metal pipe) it "bends". And I do not want to risk my tool breaking. Yes, 1/2 inch it just the size of the socket, but I think 1/2 inch is generally too weak for this purpose. I think the BGS breaker bar with 3/4 "is more stable than the snap-on with 1/2". |
yours is vary cheap this is vary good never bend it take more fore then any man can do.
https://store.snapon.com/Breaker-Bar...r-P813610.aspx the whole point of this whole thread you will not get the nut off with the cheap tools you have final answer |
The linked 3/4 inch breaker bar is not mine.
Actually I do not own a breaker bar. Therefore no "very cheap" tool. We do not know, if Snap-on or Stahlwille is better. Both are professional tools of the highest quality. Stahlwille is used in industry, aviation etc.. And "Snap-On" is not very common here. Perhaps like Stahlwille in the US (?). If somebody had offered a used set of snap-on hand tools at the time (when I bought Stahlwille), perhaps I bought snap-on. But it is rare in here. At that time, Snap-On was not unknown to me. Good mobile tool boxes. But rare. Especially at the used market (I prefer good but used tools for a good price). I have a big mobile toolbox from "PROTO - professional Tools". But with a heavy weight. Not really "Mobile" ;-) (in a small one car home garage with sloping driveway with edge). Which is Your Favorite European Hand Tool Brand?: https://toolguyd.com/best-european-hand-tool-brands/ george says May 5, 2015 at 12:45 am stahlwillie and hazet. kive says Nov 27, 2015 at 10:23 am Socket / Ratchets / fork wrench – Stahlwille, probably not most ergonomic but practically unbreakable, also one of the most expensive brands. Well, practically none brand is best in all tools but if I had to choose 1 brand to stick with it would be stahlwille. P.S.: Is it impossible to link to a video without embedding? Less intrusive here. |
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