OK, so now that I've got my information cleared up about the part, I have another inquiry so I've started a new thread. If I have to replace the coolant outlet housing, is there any gaskets or some special type of adhesive to replace? (I notice there is some pink colored residue around the base of it) It's plastic right? Also I've scanned my Haynes repair guide and there does not appear to be any torque specs for it. In fact I can find NO information on Coolant Outlet Housing itself at all except for the very brief bit on the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor on p-6-11 #8. Is it a simple unbolt - new gasket-reattach process or is there more to it? I assume since it's plastic it's susceptible to cracks. Anybody got any cool tips on this part and it's replacement. Thanks to all in advance. JG

 

u can remove the intake or undo all the bolts and lift it up use an 8mm swivel socket to get to the bolts and the pink stuff is dried coolant aka the reason why u are replacing it .

 

The gasket comes with the new part. Yes, the part is plastic; if I remember correctly, there are metal sleeves in the bolt holes, but the bolts are relatively small so don't over tighten them. The spec is 105 inch-lbs. (That's inch-lbs, not ft-lbs). You can buy the sensor with the part. The problem with removing the old sensor is that most if the time it's seized in the fitting. When you turn it to get it out, the fitting just spins in the plastic. That's why they sell the sensor with the new part. You may get a slightly different reading at the temperature gauge due to the differences in the sensor.
DO NOT fuss with the bleeder on top. The system will bleed itself after a few warm-up cycles, then refill as necessary. The bleeder fitting can spin in the plastic just like the sensor fitting.

 

Excellent, thanks guys. JG