hi bruce_uk1. I purchased a Sealey vacuum pump/gauge tester. See
There is a handy PDF (also available at http://www.sealey.co.uk/pdfs/instructions/VS4021.pdf) in the kit detailing common uses and a how-to. If you need I also have the service manual from Chrysler where there are Chrysler specific tests (with and without such tools) and the expected nominal values e.g. 27in Hg out of the vacuum pump.

A good buy...I wish I had purchased a while back.

Rgds, kkc.

 

Update: used up one can of Bardahl EGR cleaner spray. This was sprayed into the air intake after the air filter and MAP sensor. I was sceptical as I couldn't see how this would clean the EGR since that is not in the flow except until after combustion in the piston chamber. This implies that the spray creates enough energy / heat to burn away carbon deposits in the exhaust manifold and also the EGR system. Hmmmm...! Note, on the Voyager, it's not easy to spray directly into the EGR valve intake..!

MAP sensor was squeaky clean - guess the air filter is doing it's job.

Result: it made NO difference. On the other hand the Bardahl diesel additive did make a minor difference, most likely due to cetane increase.

I know that pressure testing shows the EGR valve diaphragm to be leaky, so next step is to replace the EGR valve. Has anyone done this? Is it straightforward to do this? There seem to be two pipes in the way - one is a coolant pipe and the other looks like it may be from the turbo.

Thx, kkc.

 

I had a bash at removing my EGR valve yesterday due to the same symptom, I took the pipe off that goes to the turbo. which left me clear sight of the EGR valve. problem is that I couldn't get a spanner or a socket and wrench on the bolt, there was not enough room. the second bolt sits just below the heat shield in which is impossible to get too with a tool. then there is the EGR cooler has the same problem of not able to get anything onto the bolt heads. any advice ?

 

Bruce... can you try a crowfoot spanner/wrench? The crowfoot may help with the bolts going up/down. Not sure about the bolts going horizontally across (cooler bolts). That space is so tight it's a real pain ita. Can you post a photo? I have the service manual and reading that you are lead to believe it's a breeze to remove the egr valve. Good luck...! And please keep us informed. Rgds, kkc.

 

Bruce... just found this image on the web. It seems that if you can use the crowfoot on the EGR bolt between the engine block and the EGR, then you could remove the cooler and EGR as one unit. rgds.

 

Thanks KKC, I have attached a close up of the EGR in situ that I had used, the crows foot would get the first bolt however I think the second bolt is going to have to remove the exhaust manifold cover that surrounds that area which means stripping other parts out to just get to that. I have the tech guide and followed those few steps and its a bigger job than what it says.


But this is only on the presumption that the EGR is my issue. when rpm goes over 2000 it then starts to chug with some loss of power then when stopping and idle it chugs for a minute and a half then stops chugging and smoothes out. the chugging also stops when resuming driving at a steady pace at less than 2000 rpm for about a minute and a half. I can drive round for a good few miles at under 2000 rpm and not have any issues, as soon as it goes over then it chugs.

 

Maybe check first that

1. the glow plugs are nice and tight - when doing this also check tips to see if any one cylinder is not firing cleanly
2. the injectors are nice and tight

If these are both ok, then we are left with one or two injectors, fuel system, egr...maybe something else.

G'luck. kkc.

 

I reported earlier that my rough "rocking" idling got perfectly smooth after running a full tank with CRD cleaner additive in my diesel and running a full tank Vpower on long high speed trips.
Since then I did ~3000km on mixed roads (highway/city) and still my car isn't rocking in front of traffic lights any more.
So my problem seems solved.

 

I did some research on injector clogging and some interesting facts came up--

As I knew already from schooldays, absolutely nothing will dissolve carbon. So you can forget cleaner doing this for you. Only consistent heat could burn the carbon in the presence of oxygen to carbon dioxide. Hence the success at unclogging of long distance high speed driving a diesel. This hard carbon-crud alters the spray pattern (often designed with six smaller sprays) and therefore increases fuel consumption. At its worst the injector can dribble un-atomized diesel making for a really bad fuel consumption.

With diesel injectors, a common clogging material is often called "algae" which in fact has nothing to do with real algae at all, but is a kind of slime of diesel constituents getting in the injector. Cleaner will prob. get rid of this.

Most cleaners are a mix of xylene, acetone, toluene, paint-thinner such as a light paraffin/turps. subs., benzene, isopropanol, naptha and some exotic acids. The mix in the cleaner may contain some of these. Naptha is the very common one. Most of these solvents are very cheap indeed when bought separately

You should be very careful what you put in the fuel tank of high-pressure common rail diesels. NEVER put petrol or paraffin in the diesel tank for winterizing...goes the advice I've read. It's not necessary anyhow. Putting perol or paraffin into the tank could cause an injector tip to explode. I suppose they mean the pintle-end. Water in the fuel can do the same by abruptly vaporizing.

Sand in the fuel does not block fuel filters. The particle size is far too big. In fact sand is commonly used to filter drinking water.

So....I would say a long high-speed drive is more likely than anything to unclog injectors -- apart of course by otherwise removing them from the engine and having them professionally cleaned in an ultrasonic bath. This should also dislodge hard carbon, not by dissolving it, but by shattering it with 45KHz acoustic energy.

Leedsman.

 

Hello everyone.

Yesterday, I took out the EGR valve. Bruce-uk1 it's not that difficult. Steps are shown in the PDF here: http://www.own-initiative.com/files/... EGR Valve.pdf

The valve and the connecting pipes were very clean. Who knows if this was due to the Bardahl cleaning. Since after using the Bardahl and having a good long drive (75km) the engine is idling much smoother (though still not optimally), I must assume that some cleaning has taken place.

I tested the valve again and it loses vacuum at the rate of 1in per 9secs. Given that the vaccum supply would be constantly applied and how clean the valve is, I find it hard to believe that the EGR valve is the sole cause of warm rough idling. Thoughts anyone?

However I will replace it given that I can do so now.

One other point, having removed all this, it seems a good time to change the auxiliary heater supply/return coolant pipes, as mine are getting rusty.

I'll post back once I have installed the new EGR valve.