2005 Chrysler Voyager 2.8 CRD LX P1130/start problems
#1
2005 Chrysler Voyager 2.8 CRD LX P1130/start problems
Hi,
I'd be very grateful for any advice on the following issues to avoid paying out any more wasted money and making a decision as to whether to keep the car. Had the car 18 months now and it has 150k on the clock but drives great (once started). The problem began not long after purchasing the car when it 'developed' starting problems. Engine would turn over but it would take a while and sometimes a few attempts to start; P1130 code is showing. I've read virtually every related thread on this site and taken the action listed below but still can't resolve the issue.
- changed fuel filter (3 times)
- replaced filter housing
- fuel rail tested - fine
- injectors tested and 2 replaced
- had fuel pump removed and tested - came back fine
- new starter motor fitted (packed up probably due to constant starting problems)
- new tank sender unit
- new MPROP valve
- treated with Grotamar
When the new filters and MPROP were fitted the car started 1st time on the key, however after a week or so the problem recurred. The main issue is when the engine is warm. Generally, from cold the engine starts after a couple cranks, when warm though if I stop for a short period then I'm guaranteed to have problems re-starting where on a couple occasions I've had to revert to engine easy start. Obviously I don't want to continue like this particularly as my wife uses the motor most with the kids. I'm a novice where cars are concerned but the only thing I can think of is an issue with sludge in the tank contaminating the fuel when the tank gets low. When the sender unit was fitted I'd have expected the mechanic to advise if there was sludge but based on the poor job he did (issues with quality of work) perhaps not! if anyone has experienced similar issues or can provide a potential solution I'd be very grateful as need to resolve once and for all.
Many thanks,
J
I'd be very grateful for any advice on the following issues to avoid paying out any more wasted money and making a decision as to whether to keep the car. Had the car 18 months now and it has 150k on the clock but drives great (once started). The problem began not long after purchasing the car when it 'developed' starting problems. Engine would turn over but it would take a while and sometimes a few attempts to start; P1130 code is showing. I've read virtually every related thread on this site and taken the action listed below but still can't resolve the issue.
- changed fuel filter (3 times)
- replaced filter housing
- fuel rail tested - fine
- injectors tested and 2 replaced
- had fuel pump removed and tested - came back fine
- new starter motor fitted (packed up probably due to constant starting problems)
- new tank sender unit
- new MPROP valve
- treated with Grotamar
When the new filters and MPROP were fitted the car started 1st time on the key, however after a week or so the problem recurred. The main issue is when the engine is warm. Generally, from cold the engine starts after a couple cranks, when warm though if I stop for a short period then I'm guaranteed to have problems re-starting where on a couple occasions I've had to revert to engine easy start. Obviously I don't want to continue like this particularly as my wife uses the motor most with the kids. I'm a novice where cars are concerned but the only thing I can think of is an issue with sludge in the tank contaminating the fuel when the tank gets low. When the sender unit was fitted I'd have expected the mechanic to advise if there was sludge but based on the poor job he did (issues with quality of work) perhaps not! if anyone has experienced similar issues or can provide a potential solution I'd be very grateful as need to resolve once and for all.
Many thanks,
J
#2
Can I presume your "easy-start" is basically ether? (It has a strong obvious smell). Having to use this to start a diesel in the old days usually meant poor compression due to worn rings and bores. HOWEVER...
You are saying that sometimes after fitting new parts in the fuel system it will start easy. This is perplexing: It sounds like some kind of fuel starvation, not yet covered.
As I said in another posting, many diesels have TWO fuel filters, one before the lift pump from the tank, and one before the super high pressure injector pump. One of them may be plugged up.
There may be a lot of crud in the tank, your difficulty in a warm start might be due to the crud being stirred up by the vehicle's motion. That 150,000mile on the clock makes me think this way. They used to remove fuel tanks and steam-clean them. Also there may be a partially blocked fuel line to the HP pump. A backward blast-through with a high pressure air line is often done to be sure.
These are direct injection common rail diesels, and every one I've had has been VERY easy to start no matter what the weather, or if the engine is hot or cold. But I have to say my experience with this VM Motori diesel is limited so far.
Well, best of luck with it...
Leedsman.
You are saying that sometimes after fitting new parts in the fuel system it will start easy. This is perplexing: It sounds like some kind of fuel starvation, not yet covered.
As I said in another posting, many diesels have TWO fuel filters, one before the lift pump from the tank, and one before the super high pressure injector pump. One of them may be plugged up.
There may be a lot of crud in the tank, your difficulty in a warm start might be due to the crud being stirred up by the vehicle's motion. That 150,000mile on the clock makes me think this way. They used to remove fuel tanks and steam-clean them. Also there may be a partially blocked fuel line to the HP pump. A backward blast-through with a high pressure air line is often done to be sure.
These are direct injection common rail diesels, and every one I've had has been VERY easy to start no matter what the weather, or if the engine is hot or cold. But I have to say my experience with this VM Motori diesel is limited so far.
Well, best of luck with it...
Leedsman.
#3
More...
There is more than meets the eye in this M-PROP valve. It is driven (in a pulse-width modulated way) by the ECU. The ECU gets its information from the RPS, Rail Pressure Sensor. Therefore a closed-loop situation exists here.
I would carefully inspect all wiring, plugs and sockets etc. for this entire system which is electrical. In my experience, 50% of these type of faults can be found by visual inspection. Slightly bad plugs/sockets can usually be fixed by a good contact cleaner like Electrolube (the best) and plugging and unplugging the plug/socket combo at least a dozen times. If all tests well, I'd go for the rail pressure sensor next. It will be a simple transducer, but operating at the rail pressure, around 25,000lb/sq." So be careful here.
The last thing would be the ECU itself, after of course checking the connector to the system. But the ECU is the most reliable part of the system, input sensors and driven devices much more likely to be troublesome.
Do let us know what you find...
Leedsman.
There is more than meets the eye in this M-PROP valve. It is driven (in a pulse-width modulated way) by the ECU. The ECU gets its information from the RPS, Rail Pressure Sensor. Therefore a closed-loop situation exists here.
I would carefully inspect all wiring, plugs and sockets etc. for this entire system which is electrical. In my experience, 50% of these type of faults can be found by visual inspection. Slightly bad plugs/sockets can usually be fixed by a good contact cleaner like Electrolube (the best) and plugging and unplugging the plug/socket combo at least a dozen times. If all tests well, I'd go for the rail pressure sensor next. It will be a simple transducer, but operating at the rail pressure, around 25,000lb/sq." So be careful here.
The last thing would be the ECU itself, after of course checking the connector to the system. But the ECU is the most reliable part of the system, input sensors and driven devices much more likely to be troublesome.
Do let us know what you find...
Leedsman.
#4
Might I further refer you to this....
MOTOR Magazine Article | MOTOR Information Systems
Here is a highly professional rundown of how common rail systems are controlled by the ECU. It indicates that both the CAM POSITION, AND CRANK POSITION sensors can affect if the engine will start or not.
Leedsman.
MOTOR Magazine Article | MOTOR Information Systems
Here is a highly professional rundown of how common rail systems are controlled by the ECU. It indicates that both the CAM POSITION, AND CRANK POSITION sensors can affect if the engine will start or not.
Leedsman.
#5
Hi ALC....I have 2005 2.8CRD Voyager with exactly the same problem. Have had all same parts changed (all 4 injectors though) and now local Chrysler dealer wants to change the High pressure fuel pump - £2.5k! They'll not guarantee it will cure problem so no chance. Have you made any progress with your issue?
#6
Ours used (still has) to have difficult starting --will crank over but not fire-----I found that if I turn ign. on for op. the cold start-----then turn OFF --watch the speedo/rev. counter needles 'till they drop onto their pins----then crank it again --for us, this system starts 99.9% first time
Nigel & Pamala
Nigel & Pamala
#7
Change the glow plugs and fill her up with some Shell V-Power and a tin of BG244 and see how well they'll start! Better still use some Archoil 6200 love juice in the tank
Last edited by TimmyTim; 08-19-2013 at 05:33 PM.
#8
Hi TimmyTim, first thing we changed was the glow plugs. But I'll give the BG244 a go. Thanks.
#9
Difficulty Starting.Yip
Yip, all the prognosis (god did I say that) of the fuel running back to the tank, hence needs cranking to bring it back up.
Front of engine bay is the fuel filter housing with a manual primer pump attached is that same as yours. Had this same problem on another car, hand primer wouldn't pump the fuel up because the pump diaphragm was cracked and letting air in...
Or did your filter, I take it you mean filter unit, come with this pump.
Front of engine bay is the fuel filter housing with a manual primer pump attached is that same as yours. Had this same problem on another car, hand primer wouldn't pump the fuel up because the pump diaphragm was cracked and letting air in...
Or did your filter, I take it you mean filter unit, come with this pump.
#10
Hi goggs. That's really interesting. I have felt from day 1 that air must be getting in somewhere. Why else would it work ok immediately after someone has worked on the fuel system? You mention the fuel filter housing under the engine bay.....I was led to believe the fuel filter on these is at the rear of the car next to the fuel tank. Is there a second one? Many thanks.