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Anyone have detail instructions on how to get to the input speed sensor on a 95 Cirrus? I think I see it below the fuse box on the left. I can't access it from the bottom, as it sits behind the solenoid.
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I think it's the same as my '01, and you get to it by taking out the air cleaner box and then pulling the transmission cooling hoses. My recollection is that you pull the input speed sensor to get to the solenoid pack, not the other way around. It's not a tough job.
The input and output speed sensors are in the same neighborhood. Logically, the input speed sensor is closer to the engine.
Thanks for the response DC. I believe the 95 and 01 Cirrus are different slightly. I removed the air hose cleaner, but still do not have a clear view to the sensor. From A604 transmission diagram I know it's sitting on the opposite side of the output sensor, which I replaced rather easily. I think I may have to remove the TCM and some other wires to get a clear view. We will see. Thanks again.
I was finally able to change the input sensor. It was just like Dcotter prescribed. I was lazy earlier on and just removed the top half of the air filter duct. I needed to removed the piece attached to the engine. In addition, loosen screws on TCM holder and moved to the side. I had to get a deep wrench socket to get to the sensor, but got it out.
I did notice something strange with the old sensor, which was that it was completely wet or oily when I took it out. Wasn't sure it was normal, but stuck the new one in its place.
Sadly to say, my car is still in limp mode. Things were looking promising after replacing the output sensor. It drove better, but was driving high on RPMs at 50mphs.
I cut the car off in neutral while driving in attempt to get it going. Car dropped back to original limp mode, which was pre-changing of output sensor.
I assume you put new O-rings on the sensors when installing them. That might cure the leak if it was from that point.
What is the history of the transmission fluid? If you don't know, then you might want to consider changing it. Use EXACTLY what is specified by Chrysler. If Chrysler calls for ATF 3, don't use ATF 4 thinking it's better.
If the old fluid has metal flakes in it, that's bad. If it's just old and brown, new fluid might solve your problem.
Consider changing the solenoid pack. You can find them for about $50 or so in the internet. You now know how to get in there, it's the same approach. As long as you are there, change the cooling hoses. They could be the source of your leak. You might need to pull the headlight to reach the upper hose connection.
I had the transmission replaced by AAMCO last year. The only major repair job I had done outside of dealer. So, I am assuming the dealer was using the right fluids since I had regular maintenance on the car.
I did not replace any o-rings. I believe o-ring is attached to sensors. I wouldn't be surprised water got in there when AAMCO replaced transmission. They replaced the hose because it was leaking.
I will try the solenoid pack. Don't know when, but will report back.
Did AAMCO give you a warranty? Might want to dredge up your papers and see if its still good.
The cooling hoses do not carry water. Trans fluid goes through the hoses to a heat exchanger in the radiator.
If AAMCO replaced the whole transmission, it's unlikely that the solenoid pack is bad because they would have replaced the solenoid pack along with the transmission.
It's probably best to stop guessing and get a definitive diagnosis. A transmission that has gone into limp mode will generate some error codes. It may require a DRB III to pick them up. Failing that, pressure testing may be called for.
Given the age of this car, I'm not sure how much money you want to pour into it, but throwing parts at it may not be a good strategy either.
DCOTTER.. The warranty was only for 30 days as I did not get a rebuilt tranny... I took it back repeatedly. They guaranteed it was the TCM, but I had spent too much money already. Took them to court, but loss that case as I did not have a witness present. Invoices from other mechanics are "hearsay".
Thanks for the advice on solenoid. Save me time. Nope, I am not looking to invest much money into the car. I thought the sensors might do the trick at a cheap cost.
I'll stick with the recommendation to use only what Chrysler specifies for your specific vehicle in the transmission. Transmissions are very sensitive to slight differences in fluid characteristics, viscosity, slip, etc. Dextron Mercon might very well be wondeful stuff, but if it ain't what the trans was engineered to work with, it might not be right.
As to those codes, the best Information I have is as follows:
21: Problem with oxygen sensor signal circuit. Sensor voltage to computer not fluctuating.
31: Evap system fault.
36: Open or shorted condition detected in the secondary air injection solenoid circuit (manual transaxle models)
41: Problem with the charging system. An open or shorted condition detected in the alternator field control circuit.
53: Internal PCM failure detected.
54: No camshaft position sensor signal. Problem with the camshaft sensor synchronization circuit.
That's a lot of codes, but that "53" code may suggest that the others aren't necessarily trustworthy. It shouldn't run at all given that "54" code. I don't know how the engine can run if the computer doesn't know where the camshaft is. Likewise, since yours is an automatic transmission, that "36" code doesn't make much sense.