Car has been running fine lately. Driving down the highway the other day and it "stutters" and then runs fine for a couple miles. It then dies. I start it right up and it goes about a quarter of a mile and dies again. It does this 'til I'm about 10 miles from getting home and dies without hope of restarting again. An hour or so later after hitching a ride home, I return to car and it starts right up. The whole ride home, the car's power faded in and out (couldn't give it gas, headlights would dim, heater would shut off). After I let the car cool down below operating temperature, it starts and runs great. It is showing a code of 43 per the key method. Any similar experiences with suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

That's nearly impossible to diagnose via the internet without seeing, hearing and having tools to pinpoint the problem. For example it COULD be a bad alternator, it COULD be a computer problem or wiring problem or CCD bus problem (communications link between all the computer modules). In short, there are 2 ways to go about this... One is throw parts at it until you hopefully fix it, or second, have someone with electrical knowledge, proper tools (multimeter, scanner, shop manuals) investigate the problem using a rational and pragmatic diagnostic routine. The hard part is finding someone capable to solve it.

 

Well, throwing parts at it won't be too fun unless I get lucky and get it right the first time. My luck isn't that good. I'll have to attempt the drive and get it hooked up to scanner I suppose.

 

Sorry that I cant give you an exact answer but hopfully you see it's nearly impossible to 'guess' what the exact problem is. Make sure you take it to someone with a REAL scanner, not one of them stupid code readers. besides your vehicle is NOT obd2, so autozone can't help with diagnostics as they do not have the connector for obd1 which your vehicle has.

IMHO, if you have any mechanical inclination and interest in fixing your own stuff, go on ebay and buy yourself a real scanner. The snap on MT2500 is one of the best and easiest to use scanners on the market. I've bought 3 off ebay for an average price of $350 each. Don't think this one problem is the only time you'll ever use it.... look at all the people with trans problems on chrysler, you can expect that will be you too. Besides, if you have a quality tool and become proficient with it, just think of how you could make money back diagnosing other peoples cars.

 

A month in I hope your problem has been fixed, if not. a code 43 as per the manual is "Peak primary circuit current not achieved with the maximum dwell time". Translation one of your spark coils (not the plugs the coils, where the wires attach to) is malfunctioning. Trouble is that can be either true and its the coil or many other things. One of the diode bridges in your alternator could have failed (or be failing) causing a low voltage condition. The voltage drop should have its own code if it gets low enough. If you have the knowhow put a multimeter on your car and record the voltage. A healthy alternator should be cranking out 14 volts with all the lights inside on and your high-beams on. As much as I disagree with the... people skills of 22chrysler above, this is probably beyond your average diy. There's too many things it could be, however with the age of the car things like a new/used coil, simple voltage test. The process of elimination may get you working again. Step one really for all things like this is head to your local wallmart etc and get the hayes (or the other main brand, i can never remember the name edison ?) manuall for your car. It has things like wiring diagrams and all the codes listed.

 

What do you mean my people skills? Gordon Ramsey is my idol.. We need more people like him to quit enabling stupidity. I'm sick and tired of lazy morons ruining our planet. Seems the stupider a person is, the more people feel sorry for them and solve all their problems. It won't be long before this planet turns into the movie "Idiocracy"

 

Replaced spark plugs and car ran great for 800 miles or so, then it started again. I ran into someone that had exact same problems on exact same car. He replaced fuel pump and never had any more problems. I replaced mine and didn't have a problem for 3 whole days. Today I replaced coil and wires. Car started right up and drove great for about 15 minutes. It then died. Still having same problems. Hard starting, cuts out and bucks, dies and only after sitting will start again. These are intermittent problems and don't happen all the time. It seems to me that it only happens with moisture in the air. Might try camshaft position sensor. The only thing that seems to be constant is an abnormally rough idle. The only mechanic within 20 miles has no clue as to what my problem could be after replacing what I have replaced

 

Car will start and idle for about 5 minutes before dying. After car dies, will not restart for several hours, then restarts fine and dies again after a few minutes. Just replace camshaft position sensor with no improved results. Being told that I may have water in the gas, but have put at least a half a dozen bottles of iso-heat through it in the last month or so. Codes it is showing is now 12,43,43,43,43,43,55. Stick of dynomite may be my next option.

 

Well code 12 is the battery code I was speaking of. Code 55 just means end of line, no more codes. Did you disconnect the negative battery cable while installing any of the above parts ? If so then that code is normal for the first 50 starts of the engine.

Replacing parts for "identical" or "same" problems is never a good idea. A fuel pump would be giving different symptoms, as would the camshaft position sensor, very different.

Have you tested the voltage yet ? You said you replaced the coil, wires and plugs? There is more than one coil, also what did your plugs looks like when you pulled them had any of them shorted? The wiring harness that connects to the plastic housing of the coils was there any damage ? Follow this harness parts of it sometimes fall against the exhaust housing melt and short.

I'm being as specific as I can here but this IS a gremlin issue and there often a PITA (pain in the ***). I once had a noisy steering pump in my younger years on an Olds, after replacing it the noise was better but not stopped tried a new serpentine belt. Then the head mechanic replaced the alternator noise was still there. I was looking in the side of the engine as it ran just staring at it and was hit by a tiny flake of metal... Went looking and found the dammed idler pulley was shedding its metal bearings and was making noise on and off. Replaced it and solved the issue. It had BEEN the issue all along. Your facing something similar.

 

I replaced the coil that all six plug wires plug into. Not sure where the other ones are. Haven't been able to test alternator voltage because I can't get car to run more than a couple minutes now, IF I get it started. Someone suggested fuel pump relay but that turned out to be fine. If you know anyone wanting a good car, that doesn't run, it'll probably be for sale after I try the crankshaft position sensor with no results.