Blend door is working, 3 actuators ? Passenger side by the heater core, the blend in the middle, another driver side down by the gas pedal, all working. Coolant is full. CODE p1614 ?? Any help greatly appreciated. It’s getting cold .!! Thanks

 

go to the heater core hoses warm the engine up see if both hoses are hot where you cant hold onto them if you cant coolant flowing good if you can hold onto them you have a clogged heater core.

 

Hey thank you so much for helping out, I was thinking I was gonna get no response at all. I believe you’re right about having a plugged core. One of the hoses gets hot, the other is not. The one that’s hot, the intake right, is Not super hot cause I can hold it firmly but it’s pretty hot. I need to flush it, reverse flush, On this LHS there is just no room to work on the hoses by the firewall. Is there another location that I could do that flush from ? Like by the radiator?

 

Also I had that pcode wrong, it’s 1684, which I found, just says battery was disconnected within last 50 starts. I ran it dead one day working on it. On the a/c I get a code 23. ( blend door feedback ) I did change the main actuator in the center right behind the stereo. It’s turning, working, but still getting 23

 

You may just have an air bubble in the system. Bleeder valve located front center of the plenum, looks just like a brake bleeder. Cold engine, cap off reservoir, over fill the reserve tank with a snug fitting funnel until coolant comes out the bleeder. Snug the bleeder, install pressure cap (tested good or new) start the engine, After 2-3 minutes crack the bleeder to let air escape, repeat again after a few minutes. Road test and see if that helps. I'm guessing you already did the ATC re calibrate/ code check.....

 

I’ve done a code check but not sure of the steps to recalibrate. It’d be great if you could tell me that. If that doesn’t get it, will definitely try this approach. I’ve seen some videos on burping an air bubble out. Hopefully that’ll get it. Probably need to flush it good anyway But I’ll try this tomorrow.

 

After performing the "code check" then do the following.
Engine running, vehicle parked, Set the temp to Full Cold for 2 minutes, then Full Hot for 5 minutes.
Extremely rare for heater cores in these cars to plug unless the cooling system has been neglected.
Coolant loop flows thru heater core at all times, summer and winter. Blend door takes care of the temperature.

 

an LHS will have the 3.5 no bleeder housing like the 2.7 even an air bubble will be moved around to blow by a heater core. the core itself is likely clogged. and no not really and good location to get at it. Unless u want to find the other end of the hoses and do it from there.

 

??? No Bleeder ???

Bleeder Screw - Mopar (5015248AB)

Genuine Bleeder Screw

 

not like the 2.7 no the 3.5 will have the one that goes into metal the 2.7 will be the plastic housing that will leak. As far as why you would need to even bleed air from a system that is air tight? If there is air in there that means there is a leak. No leak no air no need to bleed air from the lines.