OIL PRESSURE LIGHT
 

Hello,

I have a 2001 Chrysler Concorde with 50K miles, 2.7L engine. I am having a problem with low oil pressure and was wondering if this is common. Originally, the light came on at low idle speed (550 rpm). It would flicker and then remain steady. About 2 months ago, I found a badpressure sensor and replaced it. This AM same thing just started. Oil is good and clean (no sludge) and previously I cleaned out the IAC and throttle body just in case either was sticking and causing the low RPMs and resultant low oil pressure.

So, I have 2 questions:

1. With the car in gear at a stoplight, should the idle drop to 550? If I shift to neutral the idlegoes up to 650 and the oil light goes out. Is there a way to force the idle higher?

2. Could my fairly new sensor have died this soon?

Any help is appreciated. Seeing the red light of engine death is a bit disconcerting...

Bill

RE: OIL PRESSURE LIGHT
 

I did this on my 99 Condorde with a 2.7

NO: 08-36-99 SUBJECT: Engine Oil Pressure Light Flicker DATE: Oct. 15, 1999 OVERVIEW: This bulletin involves adding a terminal/wire/vent to the oil pressure switch connector. NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 2.7L ENGINE. SYMPTOM/CONDITION: With a hot engine the oil pressure light may be on or flicker on at idle. DIAGNOSIS: Verify engine oil pressure as described on page 9-21 of the 1999 Concorde/Intrepid/LHS/300M service manual (Publication No. 81-270-9140). If engine oil pressure is within specification perform the Repair Procedure. PARTS REQUIRED: Qty Part No. Description 1 05017800AA Wire Terminal/Vent REPAIR PROCEDURE: [ol][*]Raise vehicle on a suitable hoist.[*]Remove engine oil pressure switch connector from switch.[*]Remove sealing dart from the empty cavity at the rear of the connector.[*]Pull terminal locking ring outward from front (switch) side of connector to gain access to terminal locking tabs.[*]Install wire terminal/vent, p/n 05017800AA, in place of the removed sealing dart. Slide locking ring back into place.[*]Attach the connector back on the oil pressure switch.[*]Spot tape the wire/vent to follow the harness towards the top of the engine compartment[/ol]

RE: OIL PRESSURE LIGHT
 

Does this fix the problem?

RE: OIL PRESSURE LIGHT
 

Well, I was lazy. Once this forum told me that I didn't have an oil pressure problem, then I didn't follow through with the repair. Oil Light still flickers on hot days when the car is warmed up. Anywau, besides the slight oil leak that I can't find (somewher near the alternator) the car seems to run OK.

RE: OIL PRESSURE LIGHT
 

I went to the dealership to pick up this $27.50 part and was shocked to find that it looks like a piece of 18awg wire with a female stak-on connector crimped on one end. The wire is inside a piece of corrugated loom and it had electrical tape "sealing" the ends of the loom. Now, can anyone tell me that this "fix" is more than just a makeshift heat sink? Someone please tell me that there is more to this part than about 12 cents of junk drawer filler that they're charging a ridiculous amount for. I didn't buy it. I'm going to make my own and try it out. I'll let you know what the results are.

RE: OIL PRESSURE LIGHT
 

Hello,

I've read on other posts that the part you speak of is something that can easily be homemade. No one seems to know what this actually does, but it does seem to correct the issue. I guess if I ever sell my car, I'll fix this properly. Search this issue on the other forums (I think Dodge Intrepid) and you'll get more background.

Good Luck...
Bill

so, i got the same problem after buying Chrysler Sebring Convertible 2002 LX, 2.7 V6, 49K Mileage. Mechanics checked oil pressure sensor and found an oil leak right in sensor. So Sensor was replaced ($37 for part, $70 with labor cost - should be much more cheaper to do for yourself, and as easy). Went 5k miles - oil pressure lamp was never light again at idle or in any other case. Good luck to all who meet this problem.

Oil press light
 

For me, this problem comes and goes. I've recently found that using 10W30 works better to keep the light from flickering. Also, I had previously replaced the oil press sensor because it had a leak in it. Part was about $28 and it only took 10 minutes. A little messy because I wasn't expecting so much oil to come out. Still never bothered with the vent.

Oil pressure switch removal
 

'99 Concorde, 2.7 engine with the oil light flickering. I'm ready to install thge TSB which supposedly corrects the problem. I found the oil pressure switch but can not figure out how to remove the connector from it. I can see what looks like a red locking tab on the green barrel, but no luck getting past this simple task. Any help out there?

Connector
 

I snapped my connector clamp trying to get it off. I believe that the red piece is a lock. Slide that down and then squeeze the tabs. It will become intuitive once you get it off
Good luck...

It sounds like your oil pressure may truly be low. You should really have it checked with a mechanical gauge.

Low Oil pressure light - FIX
 

Here is how I fixed the low oil pressure light problem without using any parts, only the labor to remove the oil pressure sensor is needed. I have an 02 seabring convertible 2.7L engine and I was having the same problem with my oil light coming on at an idle. I bought a new sensor replaced the old one and had the same problem. I than got a test kit and tested my oil pressure. It was very good, never lower than 11 PSI hot at an idle. I was reading about the wire connector modification, but I had an 02 and this mod came out in 98, surely Chrysler incorporated this mod on its newer vehicles. Well after checking more they did not and this is what turned me off on Chrysler products forever. For a manufacturer to produce a vehicle with a known defect and a modification fix and not incorporated this modification on its newer vehicles is inexcusable.

After reading that the modification was to stop pressure build up in the sensor housing I decided to make a pressure release hole in the sensor housing. I took my old oil pressure sensor and using a 1/8 inch bit I drilled a small hole at the base of the plastic sensor tower. I put the old sensor in and drove for a week, no problem with my light coming on. To test further I took the new oil pressure sensor I bought and drilled a hole in it also. Put it in and I've been driving for months now and no problem with my oil pressure light coming on at all now.

Low Oil pressure light - FIX
 

Here is how I fixed the low oil pressure light problem without using any parts, only the labor to remove the oil pressure sensor is needed. I have an 02 seabring convertible 2.7L engine and I was having the same problem with my oil light coming on at an idle. I bought a new sensor replaced the old one and had the same problem. I than got a test kit and tested my oil pressure. It was very good, never lower than 11 PSI hot at an idle. I was reading about the wire connector modification, but I had an 02 and this mod came out in 98, surely Chrysler incorporated this mod on its newer vehicles. Well after checking more they did not and this is what turned me off on Chrysler products forever. For a manufacturer to produce a vehicle with a known defect and a modification fix and not incorporated this modification on its newer vehicles is inexcusable.

After reading that the modification was to stop pressure build up in the sensor housing I decided to make a pressure release hole in the sensor housing. I took my old oil pressure sensor and using a 1/8 inch bit I drilled a small hole at the base of the plastic sensor tower. I put the old sensor in and drove for a week, no problem with my light coming on. To test further I took the new oil pressure sensor I bought and drilled a hole in it. Put it in and I've been driving for months and no problem with my oil pressure light coming on at all now.

Low oil pressure light car dies now and then.
 

Z1 MILLION how is your car running read my info below. I wanted to get an update to see if your car is still running well with your mod. I think I might try that this weekend before I replace the oil pressure sensor. Or do you recommend your mod plus replacing the oil pressure sensor. The car will also die here and there once warmed up and you come to a stop light or something. Anyone with some insight to my problem below would be greatly appreciated THANKS!!



Hi I have the same problem as mentioned above. I just rebuilt my 2.7L engine with new rod, crankshaft, bearings. There is no evidence of sludge in the motor at all. So we have it all put together it runs awesome until the car reaches normal operating temp. I will have it in park just idling in the garage and every 30 seconds or so idle will drop and act like it will die and the oil light flickers and stays on. I checked the oil and it is fine. I am just doing some searches around on the internet to find out where to start and how to fix. Only thing going for me is I know its not a sludge issue. Just for FYI original problem why engine broke down was it had a small oil leak and mother in law drove it bone dry and broke the bearings, rod, and wore down the crankshaft. I look forward to replies either on here or my email at mcdonaho@aol.com. Thanks.

2.7 Oil Light Flicker
 

Ok well I think I got my light to go away. I pulled the oil sensor switch off and just removed the dart in the switch and it seemed to go away. I plan on in the next few days to pick up the part described in the T.S.B. to insert in the switch where the dart was. If I do notice the oil light come back on I'll prolly try drilling thru it like the other member posted. I didnt notice any oil in my switch or around the sensor. So hopefully all is well. One thing I'm curious about is before I did the work above once the car got warmed up the car would occasionally die at stop light or when I throw it in reverse hopefully the oil light and the idle issue are related. Guess I'll know this weekend when i put few hundred miles on it.

I have a 1999 Town and Country (3.8 liter) that I also just replaced the oil pressure sensor (a.k.a. oil pressure switch) today. It took three trips to Auto Zone and a few hours. For this model make sure you get a 28mm deep socket bit to remove the old and install the new sensor. You WILL NOT be able to loosen it any other way. I first tried a regular wrench, then adjustable wrench, channel locks, and vice grips. No way to get the leverage you need to get it loose with these other tools. They put these things on TIGHT. It's also much recommended to remove the oil filter to get to the sensor. If you use a ratchet with the 28mm deep socket you will be much happier later in the day, and you will have some day left over.

As for getting off the red retainer pin, it slides completely out one side and you can hold it in your hand, then and only then will you be able to push down on the little tab and pull the housing connector off the sensor. Otherwise you may damage it possibly beyond it working correctly.

Finally, I replaced the sensor after learning more than I wanted to, but the thing still beep beep beeps at red lights after the engine warms up. I also noticed some oil was inside the housing connector when I took it off and wonder if that could also be causing the beeping, like a short or something.

I also found that a fuse under the steering wheel for the rear wiper (on back of van) also disables the oil pressure light and binging, but later found it also disables the air conditioner. Man, how I wish they had a fuse just for this problem. If you don't need A/C then you may be able to pull that fuse and be okay. I live in Texas so that's not an option

So have done and given me the same explanation a mechanic, who is know as very good and experienced one. He said that the same problems are with the sensor on his Jeep.

BTW, in other auto repair service my sensor had been replaced a 12K Miles ago, and in a year the problem returned. I hope that the hole in the sensor housing fixed it finally.

this problem is clear and simple.

the PROGRAMMED value inside the computer is for a fresh sensor.
these sensors are aging and the signal they send out grows slightly weaker.
it doesnt mean the sensor is bad.. it means the computer has a value programmed into memory that is simply a little bit too high.

if the light comes on at a stop.. it should IMMEDIATELY shut off when you press the gas pedal.
it might even shut off as you move your foot from the brake pedal to the gas pedal.

when the RPM needle moves and the light doesnt shut off.. you are low on oil.

it seems like the only way to prevent yourself from buying new sensors again and again.. you need to know what voltages the sensor puts out, then build a circuit to boost the signal just a tiny bit.. but without affecting the quality of the signal.

you can pull up to a building (like at an atm) and roll down the window.. if you dont hear any noise from the engine, the oil level is high enough to keep the hydraulic lash adjusters firmly pressed on the camshafts.
when the oil gets low, the cams start to make a ticking sound.

For me it has been explained as air pressure built up in sensor housing, that prevents sensor to work on low RPM (when oil pressure is minimal). So hole in housing fixed the problem so far.

The sensor is an analog signal. At rest it measures about 7 OHMs and resistance increases as pressure rises. Could you be a little more specific as to where you drilled a "relief" hole. Thanks, Jim

Hello Jim,

I can't say for sure, it's been done by a good master in a service. The only thing i remember he's said that it's only one wire sensor and the hole in the sensor's housing is safe. Probably he has even removed some rubber ring surrounding the wire.

Oil pressure sensor
 

Thanks, Jim

What the heck?
 

I agree this TSB and the related P/N 05017800AA looks suspicious. My daughter's 2004 Sebring had this blinking oil light problem at idle, then after a year it started coming on even at 2000 rpm so we stopped driving immediately. I bought this part. If you follow the directions in this post exactly as written, you end up with two wires coming out of the connector and there is only one male tab on the sensor. So you end up with the original wire connected to the original sensor tab - how the Hell does that fix anything??????

I have it all a apart right now - I'd like more clarification before I put this all back together. Thanks for any help

What?????
 

I realize this is an old post, but I'm having this problem right now.
This TSB and the related P/N 05017800AA looks suspicious. My daughter's 2004 Sebring had this blinking oil light problem at idle, then after a year it started coming on even at 2000 rpm so we stopped driving immediately. I bought this part. If you follow the directions in this post exactly as written, you end up with two wires coming out of the connector and there is only one male tab on the sensor. So you end up with the original wire connected to the original sensor tab - how the Hell does that fix anything??????

I have her car all apart right now - I'd like more clarification before I put this all back together. Thanks for any help.