Our 2000 300m stalled and died after trying to pass another car on the highway. We got it towed home & replaced the crank sensor & then the cam sensor, it still wouldn't start. Finally, the timing belt was replaced & it started! But, it idles rough now & honks everytime it is started, the air comes on as well & none of the interior lights or the stereo works & the remote key fobs do not work either. Could I have mis-aligned the timing belt by a notch or two? Possibly I shorted something out when installing the sensors. This is our only car & I'm lost as to what to do next. What do I do? Please help,
Thank-You.

 

the lights have nothing to do with the timing belt along with the honk.
U could have bent a valve or 2 when the belt broke.

 

Well, the belt slipped on it. After looking at it inside the engine- it was the original belt. The vehicle has 164,000 miles on it. So, I honestly have been meaning to change it (i bought the vehicle roughly a month & a half ago) & am lucky it just slipped instead of broke. I was getting mixed reviews on the interference, non-interference aspect of the engine but now with you saying there could be a bent valve am convinced it is an interference. I guess, what after they went to an all aluminum block in 99'? Is there still a chance a valve or two is bent? The rpm's were fairly low- under 4k when it died.
Yes, I do know that the honk has nothing to do with the belt, I get that- it's a completely different system.
Here's an update: Today, I went to a friends custom car shop & he hooked up his code scanner & it was saying that there was an issue with cylinder #4 we looked at the coil & a piece of plastic was burnt off of it! Also, we fixed the electrical problem with one 10 amp fuse, this fuse controls the radio, the mirrors, the alarm, the interior lights & the annoying honk everytime the car was started! One fuse hahaa! Tommorow, I was planning on buying a new coil for cylinder #4 & installing it. My buddy seems to think it possibly burnt out & then the belt slipped. I think it may have been the opposite of that. Possibly we're both wrong (wouldn't be the first time). As of now I'm driving it, as it's our only vehicle. The check engine light is on & then as it is running crappier it blinks, then a chime & it doesn't blink. It seems it's running semi-decent for running on only 5 cylinders. Question: What type of coil do you suggest I purchase- is BWD a good one? We are planning on keeping this car for the long haul & eventually I want to make it a 'true 300' by upping the horsepower to 300. I really dig this car!
Thank-You very much for responding- I appreciate your time.

 

Yesterday, I installed a new coil on cylinder 4 & 6 new Champion Plugs. It's running better. Earlier, it was giving P1391 (cam/crank sensor prob) along with P0304, P0354. I readjusted the cam sensor & now it's only giving P0354. What is up with that? Why is it giving this code if I just installed a new coil over plug? I'm lost...again. Could the timing belt be off a tooth? Would it even start if it was off a tooth?
Thanks for your help.
Scott

 

354 will might not be that coil then possible wire issue or pcm issue
P0354-IGNITION COIL #4 PRIMARY CIRCUIT
POSSIBLE CAUSES
OPEN/HIGH RESISTANCE IN THE ASD RELAY OUTPUT CIRCUIT
COIL DRIVER NO. 4 CIRCUIT OPEN
WIRING HARNESS INTERMITTENT
COIL DRIVER NO. 4 CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
COIL ON PLUG #4 DEFECTIVE
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (COIL DRIVER NO. 4)

 

Hi there. I apologize for taking SO long to reply to your message (our internet got shut off). Recently, I bought a Chiltons book & took the timing belt off, again & repositioned it, again. It still runs the same- it's missing under 1500 rpm's & is getting horrible mileage (15 miles/91 octane gas). I suspect the pcm but have absolutely no idea how to check it. The codes coming up now are the same 0354, 0304, & one that means the cam or crank sensor has & intermittent prob also a new one- some type of temp sensor is goofed up now. I have a gauge to do a compression test because I also suspect it could be a bent valve. I do not know, I'm grasping at straws here. So, I took it to the dealership, they said 130 bucks just to tell whats wrong with it, BUT it would be applied to the repair. I'm grateful the vehicle works but it's bumming me out the way it's running. Anger! I'll keep you posted. Thanks for all of your help- It's really appreciated, friend.

 

They'll have to go after the coil 4 issue first and then address the interm. cam/crank. Don't be surprised if there are 2 repairs done here. Mention a possible cracked flexplate to them and maybe a crank keyway being broken

BTW, that diag fee will be applied to the repair...as a diag fee. It doesn't get rolled over when relating to electrical or driveability diagnosis. They just say that crap so you won't walk out the door so fast...it's an old saying that's long outlived it's usefulness. I wish they wouldn't even use it anymore but maybe your service writer is stuck in the 80s, who knows lol.

 

I'm misunderstanding you TN tech. I'm pretty sure the car isn't having a prob with the flex plate or the crank keyway being an issue. OR are you asking me to tell the dealership this? So, that they give me a better deal? The 300m's still having probs- I'm half tempted to pull the timing belt off & making sure it's aligned correctly(again). Would a 2000 300m even start if the timing belt was on incorrectly? The car misses at rpm's under 1500- probably throughout all of them. This is just when it's noticed the most because it sounds like it's going to & will sometimes die when idleing. Still can't afford a mechanic- sounds like especially one at a dealership lol
Thanks for your help!

 

Chrysler Tech, hey there- I followed the 2coil (#4) wires all the way to the pcm & neither wire looked damaged a bit old yes, but no bare wire showing through or cracks. So, now I'm guessing it has to do with the pcm needing to be replaced or 'rebooted' have you ever heard of a pcm needing to be rebooted? I'm guessing that possibly because the timing belt slipped it malfunctioned something in the coil driver.

 

timing is mechanical and the coil is electrical they are not related. resetting the pcm wont do anything. Assuming that the timing is good and no bent valves coil and wires are good the pcm is an issue.