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04 Chrysler Sebring 2.7L charging issues

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  #1  
Old 09-10-2015, 06:58 AM
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Question 04 Chrysler Sebring 2.7L charging issues

Hi, I'm new here, I've posted 2 threads but can't find them now. I've recently (8-30-2015) bought a 04 Chrysler Sebring Touring 2.7L Sedan. I'm not familiar with Chrysler's, I have owned 2 Dodge Grand Caravan's and 1 Plymouth Voyager mini van though.

Ok, this is what is going on. I bought this car from a couple that said the only reason they parked it and was selling it was because the husband was coming home one day from work and on his road it died. He said the alternator went out in it. He said he replaced it, but kept it parked because they got 2 new vehicles to drive. So I went and test drove it and only got to test drive it a 1/2 of mile because he said the battery was shot that was in it. I pulled back up in his driveway and as soon as I came to a stop, the car died and wouldn't restart, which I figured the battery, seeing he said it wasn't a good battery to began with. When we came back to buy the car, we took the 5 month old battery out of my husbands 91 Chevy S10 4.3L pick up and put it in the Sebring for me to get home, when I started it, it had a real slow crank but did start. I got 3/4 of the way home and it felt like the front end jerked OUT from under the front of the car, not once, but TWICE and the 2nd time it did it, I noticed the car shut down (the oil lamp on the dash came on and I had NO power), so I pulled over, popped the hood (the temp gauge was below a 1/2) and where the climate cooling bleeder valve sets it was spewing out water where it sets on the motor and you could hear the water boiling/bubbling in the overflow tank, I gently and carefully released the radiator cap on the over flow tank and it spewed for a good 35/45 seconds before it stopped. I let the car completely cool down then added more water. I got in it and it had a very slow cranking but did start, I got it about 2 miles and I noticed the heat gauage was right over 1/2 and it did it again, the oil lamp on the dash came on and I had no power again. I repeat the steps and decided that was enough, I locked it up and left it sitting on the side of the highway for 8 hours before I could get someone to help me get it home. When we went back and my son (which is the one that helped me get it home) got in it to start it, it was dead, very slow cranking but wouldn't start, we ended up pulling it home with my husband's S10. I let it set a week and went out there Saturday (9-4) and tried to start it and it's still dead, hooked up the jumper cables and it's STILL dead.

I need to know how to test this alternator myself at home because I can't get it to the Parts Store to have it tested and I know my battery is good. I have a Multi Meter, I just need to know what to set it on and what it should read to tell me if he's twit and actually changed out this alternator, because from the way it cranks, the sound and not starting the car, is a classic tail of "bad alternator", because I've it before on my Caravans.

ANY help would be greatly appreciated! Thank You!!
 
  #2  
Old 09-10-2015, 07:44 PM
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I hate to say it but you have more serious problems than just an alternator. Your main concern should be the fact that you had coolant spewing out from the bleeder valve and bubbling in the overflow tank. That indicates either a blocked radiator or a bad water pump. Both are common problems with Sebrings and the 2.7 motor. You need to have your cooling system checked. Slow cranking could indicate that your water pump is seized. The water pump is driven by the timing chain. If it seizes up completely your timing chain could break and there goes your motor. Even with a bad alternator a car will still start when jumped. The best way to test your alternator is to start the car and put a voltmeter on the battery. If you have around 13.5 volts or more your alternator is good.

John
 
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Old 09-11-2015, 01:26 PM
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The best way to test your alternator is to start the car and put a voltmeter on the battery. If you have around 13.5 volts or more your alternator is good.


I can't do this if the car won't start....
 
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Old 09-11-2015, 02:21 PM
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The only way to test an alternator is put power to it and test the output voltage with it spinning. If you can't start the car then you will have to remove it and take it somewhere to have it tested.

John
 
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Old 09-12-2015, 09:16 AM
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Well I found out the "clicking" noise in the front end, it's the tire well splash guard on the front passengers side, the WHOLE thing that is connected to the front bumper cover is HANGING and hitting the front passengers tire. I'm going out today to put the battery charger on the battery to let it charge it up, just that "in case" the battery is low/dead.. I'm going to try and get it started to see if the radiator is blocked or has a leak/hole along with all the hoses and the seep hole on the water pump. I also have the OEM bleeder valve replacement piece that I am also going to be replacing, BEFORE I get it started, in the case if that was what was wrong, I don't want to take the chance of the engine over heating.
 
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Old 09-12-2015, 09:32 AM
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I would also pull the dip stick and check to see if you have any water bubbles or a milky look to the oil which would indicate a water pump leak. They can leak into the crankcase and not be visible from the outside.

John
 
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Old 09-12-2015, 10:21 PM
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I went out and checked the dipstick. No bubbles, No milky substance. Just super DIRTY oil, No odor except the smell of oil. I got the bleeder valve changed out and all of it put back together. When I went to detach the upper radiator hose from the radiator, the clamp wasn't even on it and the hose wasn't even pushed all the way on the inlet of the radiator. I took pics of the dipstick and the upper radiator hose before I took it off, to show how it was, but I don't know how to upload them into this thread..
 
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Old 09-13-2015, 09:24 AM
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It obviously had cooling system issues before and someone was trying to figure it out. It sounds like the couple that sold you the car weren't completely honest.

John
 
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:43 AM
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No, he said he "changed the valve cover gasket", which would require to unhook and remove the top radiator hose as it's in the way.

I put the battery charger on it last night and let it charge the battery, after 30 minutes I tried to start it, and it's got a good crank, but a "dead/low" battery crank, not the slow crank like it did. I think I'm going to just replace both the Positive and Negative wires and ends on the cables bc it's got a new battery in it.
 
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Old 09-15-2015, 09:10 AM
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I charged the battery, fully charged, it cranks- a strong crank, but still won't start. Everything works, lights, horn, radio, alarm, electric seat, electric door locks, but it won't start. I've checked the dipstick, no milky look or bubbles on it, it smells like oil (not antifreeze or gas nor appears to have any water in it). Do you think the starter maybe the culprit? I don't know what else to do, I've never owned one these cars before, it's so different from my Dodge Caravan.. ANY help would be great.....
 


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