Replaced thermostat and radiator cap. NO external leaks. Oil clean with NO coolant in oil. Bleed air multiple times.
No/little heat at idle. Will heat up and almost overheat when driving. AC works great. Horses all good. Runs great, no misfires or hesitation.
When rev up at idle, coolant gauge drops. Drive, and after a few minutes heats up. Send to get to operating temp really quick.
If drive with AC on high, tries to overheat. Drive for a long distance, tries to overheat.
Kind of at a loss. Bleeder housing is good. Again no detectable internal or external coolant leaks. Already replaced thermostat and radiator cap and bleed system multiple times.
Cooling fans all work perfectly fine.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

 

The 2.7 motor is a known cooling system "air entrapment" motor. If you have replaced all you say, then it is either still air trapped in the system or a partially plugged up radiator.
Have you confirmed about the near overheat by engine observation or by just temp gage reading? You could have a dying temp(gage) sensor or even a faulty dash gage.
How many miles are on your ride?

 

Sorry "rebel59", not much of a computer person.
As stated above, 96k original miles, verified by the computer.

 

Must be very careful putting in sealants thru the cooling system. These are a real pain to fully bleed out air. And I will agree about a rad. replacement..due to age(in yrs.), but you must be vigilant on the process to bleed he system of air again once installed. It take patience and time to get all the air out. Not just a fill,burp,run and top off process on this motor!

 

Any recommended sites to make sure i am doing it correctly? I know to use the air bleed and burp, let cool and do again, until all air is out. Any further advice?
Thanks for your help brother.

 

You could google it ,or check out youtube, I have not worked on a 2.7 in some time now and have never owned one myself. But it is a much used(and often maligned) motor.
Personal opinion on how I would bleed out air would be as follows
(1) cold..fill reservoir half full leave cap cracked open slightly
(2) set heater controls full hot and int.fan on high
(3) start and let idle, go watch resevoir
(4) if res. draws low, top up to 1/2 full, do NOT let it go empty..you will suck in more air
(5) if res. fills completely, close cap fully and turn on A/C leave heat to hot ,the rad fans should start running(if not you have a sensor problem).
(6) IF it should boil over, SHUT DOWN and let it cool off. You either have a bad(can happen)T-stat or a plugged up radiator.
This process should take NO LESS than a half hour to do if all components are working properly(stat and rad.), but not more than 3/4 hr. and DO NOT REV it.
I will watch for any further updates, and hope well for you in getting your ride to keep it's "cool" properly.

 

Whatever you do, don't touch the bleed screw on the coolant outlet manifold on top of the engine. That screw threads into a metal seat that is very poorly anchored in a plastic part. Turning the screw (which after several years will be seized to the seat) will also result in turning the seat which will strip out the plastic holding it. This will result in a leak that will allow air in at the top of the system. If you have already turned that screw, the chances are very good that you have stripped the seat and have a leak there. There are discussions here on the forum on how to replace that part and what tool you'll need to do so easily.

 

Thank you for that advice. I have already unthreaded it but made sure not to strip it. No turning in plastic, and made sure to hold housing but when i did it to guarantee i didn't ruin housing. Thank you for your heads up and advice.

 

There are a couple of known issues with Sebrings that can cause overheating. One is a blocked radiator. I would check and make sure you have constant temperatures at both the upper and lower hoses and good circulation through the radiator. Another is that the water pump impeller can separate from the shaft and not turn fast enough to pump coolant. It's not as common or as easy to diagnose as the blocked radiator so I would check that first.

John