I have a 2002 Sebring convt. 2.7 V-6. The A/C compressor clutch was cycling on and off and appeared to be charged but the compressor would not stay on for more than 5-10 seconds. Shortly after that, it stopped coming on at all. I jumped out the A/C relay and charged the unit until I was around 45 PSIG low and 225-250 High and it still would not engage the compressor clutch. I replaced the pressure transducer and now it comes on and when the pressure on the low side drops to between 40-50 PSIG the compressor cuts off and stays off until the pressure gets back up to around 100 PSIG on the low side then does the same thing. I would think that 40-50 PSIG is adequate pressure on the low side based on previous experience. Most cut oouts I have seen are below 30 PSIG. The high side eventually will work up over 200 PSIG after repeated cycling of the compressor. Am I undercharged or is there something like the BCM that could cause this?
It blows quite cool when it is jumped out at the relay.
THanks

 

The pressure transducer should cut out at about 30 psi on the low side and also at about 431 psi on the high side.
There's no way to measure the charge in this system. The only way to know you have a proper charge is to evacuate the system and then put back in the correct amount.
The correct amount of refrigerant should be listed on a label in the engine compartment. It is probably about 27 oz.

 

Well it takes 22.5 oz. I evacuated it and put back in the correct amount and no change. If I jump out the relay, it blows nice and cold but still no change without doing that.

 

There's a whole bunch of things that have to be right for the A/C to come on. The controls in the car are the starting point. There's an anti icing switch at the evaporator coil. There's the pressure transducer and a thermal limiter switch. Both the body control module and the powertrain control module are also involved. They monitor things like wide-open-throttle condition and maybe ambient temperature. Many of these can be checked with the proper diagnostic equipment. If you know a shop with a Chrysler DRB III system (the dealership has one for sure) and if they know how to use it properly, there might be an error code that could point you in the right direction.
I assume you are satisfied that the relay itself is not defective. If so, it is probably worthwhile to see if you can hunt down any error codes that might be present. The usual OBD code scanner you find at a parts store is not likely to be able to get into the A/C system.
I would not start replacing sensors and components *****-nilly. That could get real expensive real fast.

 

I had this problem. It is not the freon or compressor. First, black fiber shot out of my vents and got stuck. I pulled them all out with a Swiss army Knife Tool. The flap must have been sticky because the fiber was also. If it still runs hot air, then the inside is colder than the outside. Open all your windows and in about 10 seconds your A/C will be freezing. Just a thermostat reading. Two years, and no problems. Since 2002, I have never added freon. My mechanic said I was good. It is the dealers, Auto Spa, Costco, Goodyear, STS and others. They want to make a buck and create fear in people. "Don't be left without your A/C." Most people add every year if these companies add anything. If so, too much freon all the time will create leaks and ruin your compressor. Fear is big in the auto industry. say to yourself, "What could happen?"