2004 Sebring 2.7 Oxygen sensor problems.
#1
09-09-2014, 10:00 PM
2004 Sebring 2.7 Oxygen sensor problems.
Engine light came on, took a reading and the codes p0038,p0058 came up. bought one oxygen sensor and replaced the downstream one.
Parts store only had one or I would have replaced both, since cost was only $24.99.
Reset code and light came right back on almost immediately.
I took a reading on the voltage from the prongs coming from the connector harness for the 02 sensor, I received about 1.5 volts and 2.5 volts on the other prong (since there are 4 inside the connecter, one for each wire)
I'm assuming the 02 sensors are fine but I'm not sure if maybe there's a fuse somewhere or something else that would be easier to fix than changing all of the wiring running from the 02 sensor back to the computer.
Thanks and hope to get some help from you knowledgeable folk!
Parts store only had one or I would have replaced both, since cost was only $24.99.
Reset code and light came right back on almost immediately.
I took a reading on the voltage from the prongs coming from the connector harness for the 02 sensor, I received about 1.5 volts and 2.5 volts on the other prong (since there are 4 inside the connecter, one for each wire)
I'm assuming the 02 sensors are fine but I'm not sure if maybe there's a fuse somewhere or something else that would be easier to fix than changing all of the wiring running from the 02 sensor back to the computer.
Thanks and hope to get some help from you knowledgeable folk!
#3
09-10-2014, 04:38 AM
It's a bosch. But I took voltage readings from both connectors and they're both no where near 12 volts.
#4
09-10-2014, 09:02 AM
Browse the forum here. You'll see that people have had lots of problems with Bosch sensors in Chrysler vehicles. Take it back and get another brand or get one from a dealer.
#6
09-10-2014, 03:36 PM
Thanks guys. I just called around and I can't get a Denso for about a week but they did have a brand called "ngk" not ntk. that I could pick up.
Here's a new question, am I looking for 2 oxygen sensors or 4?
I've only seen 2, one underneath the hood by the oil dip stick and right underneath that one from the bottom, mounted on the exhaust. if there's more can anyone tell me where exactly? thanks
I'm ordering a repair manual for my car but won't be here for a few days.
Here's a new question, am I looking for 2 oxygen sensors or 4?
I've only seen 2, one underneath the hood by the oil dip stick and right underneath that one from the bottom, mounted on the exhaust. if there's more can anyone tell me where exactly? thanks
I'm ordering a repair manual for my car but won't be here for a few days.
#7
09-10-2014, 04:51 PM
The ones you can see are for the front bank of cylinders. There is a pair for the rear bank, similarly situated that you can't see easily. The upper one is almost invisible. You'll need a special socket to get them out, one with a slit to accomodate the wire.
When you are pulling them out, be aware that there might be crud on the threads of the sensor, and you might need to run them back in a bit to knock off the crud rather than drag it out through the threads which will cause havoc. If they suddenly get hard to turn, stop and back up.
The new ones will probably have anti-sieze on the threads. If not, put some on.
It's a good idea to replace them in pairs because they work together, one upstream of the cat converter and one downstream. That's how they measure the efficiency of the converter.
When you are pulling them out, be aware that there might be crud on the threads of the sensor, and you might need to run them back in a bit to knock off the crud rather than drag it out through the threads which will cause havoc. If they suddenly get hard to turn, stop and back up.
The new ones will probably have anti-sieze on the threads. If not, put some on.
It's a good idea to replace them in pairs because they work together, one upstream of the cat converter and one downstream. That's how they measure the efficiency of the converter.
Last edited by dcotter0579; 09-10-2014 at 04:53 PM.
#8
09-11-2014, 08:02 PM
The ones you can see are for the front bank of cylinders. There is a pair for the rear bank, similarly situated that you can't see easily. The upper one is almost invisible. You'll need a special socket to get them out, one with a slit to accomodate the wire.
When you are pulling them out, be aware that there might be crud on the threads of the sensor, and you might need to run them back in a bit to knock off the crud rather than drag it out through the threads which will cause havoc. If they suddenly get hard to turn, stop and back up.
The new ones will probably have anti-sieze on the threads. If not, put some on.
It's a good idea to replace them in pairs because they work together, one upstream of the cat converter and one downstream. That's how they measure the efficiency of the converter.
When you are pulling them out, be aware that there might be crud on the threads of the sensor, and you might need to run them back in a bit to knock off the crud rather than drag it out through the threads which will cause havoc. If they suddenly get hard to turn, stop and back up.
The new ones will probably have anti-sieze on the threads. If not, put some on.
It's a good idea to replace them in pairs because they work together, one upstream of the cat converter and one downstream. That's how they measure the efficiency of the converter.
update:
I just got my repair manual because I ordered a PDF format of it so that I could find my 3rd and 4th oxygen sensors. in my repair manual it shows where they are located but does not provide me with enough information on how to get to them, was wondering if some of you guys knew of what had to be taken off to reach this one closest to the firewall.
Below is a picture
All Info About Auto Repair: Questions and Answers
In that diagram, can you tell me which one is bank 1 and bank 2?
code p0058 says bank 2 sensor 2. and code p0038 bank 1 sensor 2.
I know that means they're both downstream but just want to know which is which and how to get to the ones close to the firewall. should I remove the wheel and come up from the side?
Thanks in advance
#9
09-11-2014, 10:17 PM
bank one is the side where #1 cylinder is at that is the plug that is closest to front of teh engine the front is were teh belts are so look at it from the pass side of teh car
#10
09-12-2014, 09:31 AM
The less technical answer is that bank 1 is the rear bank, closest to the firewall.
Depending on how big your hand and arm are, you might be able to reach the upper one in the rear by removing a couple of tubes and reaching in over the brake master cylinder and then down a little. If you know what to look for, you might be able to actually see the sensor, or at least its wiring by shining a flashlight in that way. You might have to get in there from underneath and behind the engine, but you'll be working mostly blind from there. Here are some pictures from down there that may or may not be helpful:
Chrysler Forum - Chrysler Enthusiast Forums - dcotter0579's Album: How to remove the crossover pipe from a Sebring 2.7L
Either way it's quite tight.
Depending on how big your hand and arm are, you might be able to reach the upper one in the rear by removing a couple of tubes and reaching in over the brake master cylinder and then down a little. If you know what to look for, you might be able to actually see the sensor, or at least its wiring by shining a flashlight in that way. You might have to get in there from underneath and behind the engine, but you'll be working mostly blind from there. Here are some pictures from down there that may or may not be helpful:
Chrysler Forum - Chrysler Enthusiast Forums - dcotter0579's Album: How to remove the crossover pipe from a Sebring 2.7L
Either way it's quite tight.
