2011 Chrysler 200
#1
2011 Chrysler 200
So I’ve got a 2011 Chrysler 200! So my voltage while car is on and at idle doesn’t matter if acc is on or off my voltage stay 14Volts but when I turn ac on and the compressor kicks on the voltage drops to 13.3 to 12.8. And it only happens when the ac turns on! Belt is new, alternator is new, battery is new!
#2
Make sure the belt is properly tightened. Does the engine RPM drop when the A/C kicks in? It shouldn't. The RPM should stay nearly the same. The PCM tries to compensate for the extra load on the engine from the A/C. Might want to check to see if that system is working properly.
#3
Make sure the belt is properly tightened. Does the engine RPM drop when the A/C kicks in? It shouldn't. The RPM should stay nearly the same. The PCM tries to compensate for the extra load on the engine from the A/C. Might want to check to see if that system is working properly.
so the rpm’s drops a little when it first turns on then goes back to the same! And yeah the belt is tight! It was just replace and snug on there
#4
Check the A/C clutch circuit. You might have a partial short there somewhere. Not sure what the proper current should be, maybe somebody here might know, but if everything is working right, there shouldn't be that kind of voltage drop.
#5
tried looking up what the current should be but can’t find anything outside of testing to see if the clutch is engaging and obviously it’s engaging it ac is blowing! Not sure what the current is actually suppose to be to test it? I’m down to test it!
#6
Given the scenario you describe, it's possible that the A/C clutch is beginning to fail. At this point, it doesn't seem to be presenting any real operational issues, other than the slight voltage drop at idle. If it were my car, I'd live with it until it does fail and presents a problem. Who knows, it could go on like that for years, or it could break next week, or it could be something else entirely that we haven't considered. Replacing the clutch could be expensive if you hire it done and difficult if you DIY. Before I went through that headache, I'd want to know it was necessary. The car is 11, going on 12 years old. It could die from under you at any moment from any number of causes. Fixing a problem that is not causing any real issues might not be the best use of your time and money. It's up to you, but that's my 2¢.
#7
Agree with dcotter - not to worry.
Alternator output is typically lower at idle especially when demand is higher, e.g. a/c on, headlights on, blower on high. The output increases as engine rpms increase. I would believe the battery lamp in the instrument cluster. If lit, there is an issue needing to be investigated. If off, this is a good thing.
Alternator output is typically lower at idle especially when demand is higher, e.g. a/c on, headlights on, blower on high. The output increases as engine rpms increase. I would believe the battery lamp in the instrument cluster. If lit, there is an issue needing to be investigated. If off, this is a good thing.
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