Hello need some advice and help. I have a 97 sebring with an electrical issue. the interior lights do not come on. Fuse #5(10 amp) keeps blowing. I took car to the dealership and they suggested replacing the body control module. The car also drains the battery. The dealership did a draw test and said everything was fine with the battery. They did replace a door window switch. Car was fine and then one day my wife(her car) is driving the car and it just dies at a light. Got it towed home and it wont turn over. My brother(used to be a mechanic) said it was most likely the fuel pump. Was going to buy a fuel pump but went under the hood and swapped the fuel pump relay with another and the car turned over. I did have to charge the battery again. Fuse 5 is blown again but the car starts but no interior lights and dash says "deck". Could I have an issue with the IOD circuit? Does this sound like a faulty body control module? If so anyone know where to get one? thanks for the help

 

Well here is how that works U get a wire diagram of the car locate that fuse and see all of whats on it. Anything on that circuit has the ability of blowing teh fuse and also any wire short to ground will do teh same thing.

 

Have the manual, looked up the diagram. the interior lights, the door lock switches, the door entry lights, the door open ringer, the trunk switch, and the radio all on fuse # 5. Problem is the fuse blows every couple weeks and when it does it accompanies the battery being drained. Could not find exact location of bcm in manual so I did some online search and found thats its located behind the fuse junction block. I removed the dash and under panel and verified that it was there. Looks like its not easy to get to and discovered that one of the screws that holds the junction box(bcm hangs on it behind where the fuses go) was missing. Tells me someone was in here before. The car also has an aftermarket radio and whoever installed it did a bad job of crimping wires(found some exposed wire beneath some crimps). Wrapped them with electric tape. Waiting to see if the car blows the fuse and or does not start. Drove around close to home, to see if it happens again.

 

With everything off, all doors closed, lights off, etc., normal current draw should be less than 50 milliamps (0.050 amps). Those 50 milliamps represent the current drawn by things that are normally on all the time, like the receiver for the remote keyless locking, clock, and things like that. All those things should be disconnected when you pop the IOD fuse and current draw should be essentially zero.
If somebody has fooled around in there and created a short, you're going to have to hunt it down as best you can. This isn't rocket science, and you can either pay a technician $100 an hour to look for it or you can do it yourself and pocket the money. With patience and common sense you can find the problem. Keep us posted.