97' Sebring Convertible - No Start/No Spark
Ok. I've read to much at this point. I've read close to a million or 2 posts.. Here is my problem and what I've done..
Ran fine then wouldn't start at all.. Had no spark. Did the on-off-on-off-on and got the code 11.. I replaced the distributor because from what I read it seemed to be the crankshaft sensor.. The car sat about a month and a half before I got the new distributor, not to mention my girlfriend tried to start it with the distributor off so it was a pain to put back on. Had to find TDC on the #1 plug, which I did.. Anyways.. Got it all back together and its the same.. No spark. I have a manual and am mechanically inclined but am not sure were to go. The only codes I'm getting now are the one indicating the battery had been removed and 55 saying that it was the end of codes. Now that I say that I can't remember if it was code 11 or 12 but whatever it was it directly referred to the crankshaft/camshaft sensor. But that code is now gone. What can I do now and did I even provide enough info? |
You say you found TDC for the #1 cylinder; did you find it on the compression stroke? There are two TDC's for each revolution of the distributor, so you have to find it for the compression stroke.
Do you have fuel coming through the injectors? |
Well.. I had a compression gauge in the #1 spark plug hole. I waited until I had pressure starting to build up. I then took a wooden dowel and put it in the spark plug hole and worked the crankshaft up and down until I was sure I was at the top. Does that mean the compression stroke? Not sure about the injectors.. I probably should check that and didn't because I didn't have spark but would assume that may indicate if it was something like the auto shutdown relay or something.
I assumed my problem was no spark. |
Did I do the right procedure for finding TDC atleast?
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I'm sorry, I know I'm tearing my own thread up..
In my original post I mentioned code 11.. I'm actually getting a code 12 and 55.. The code 11 I was getting before I replaced the camshaft sensor. Being the code 12 says, "Camshaft and/or crankshaft sensor" the only option I guess I had left was the crankshaft sensor. I was confused because I was no longer getting a code and have since assumed this is because the car has not ran yet. So, I pulled the crankshaft sensor out and still no codes so I proved that theory correct. Is there some way to test this sensor to know for sure its faulty? |
Sounds like you've properly found TDC.
The cranksaft sensor works by having a 5 volt signal applied to it. As the crank turns, notches machined into the crank pass under the sensor causing the voltage to change from high to low as the notches pass by. If you have an oscilloscope you can watch the voltage change but I suspect you don't have an oscilloscope handy. If you can get probes carefully into the plug you may be able to check to see if the voltage is varying while cranking. The sensor will need to be in position and plugged in for this. You should be able to pick up the varying voltage with a voltmeter set for a low voltage AC reading. Or you could get a new crank sensor and stick it in. |
Yeah, my girlfriend works at a wholesale auto parts warehouse so she got one today at a much lower price than I was getting at the normal parts store. I will replace it tonight. Can't imagine what else it could be. The good thing in my mind is that the code 11 I was getting prior to working on it states crankshaft or camshaft so after I put in that part both will have been replaced. I'll be happy to atleast be getting some kind of spark. I'll let you know if it worked.
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And thanks for the help.
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"my girlfriend works at a wholesale auto parts warehouse so she got one today at a much lower price"
Hold on to that girlfriend! ;-) |
Originally Posted by dcotter0579
(Post 42348)
"my girlfriend works at a wholesale auto parts warehouse so she got one today at a much lower price"
Hold on to that girlfriend! ;-) I really, really hope this fixes it or I will be out of ideas.. Or atleast get me spark so I can move on to whatever else.. Are these things that much of a problem? |
Well. To no freaking surprise the replacement of the sensor did nothing! Still no spark.. I want to dump this car in the river! I don't even know what to do next. Anyone know where the ASD relay is? Could this be the problem? How can I be sure votage is going to the distributor? How can I be sure the fuel pump is coming on? I don't hear anything but not sure what I'm listening for. I am so frustrated with this car.
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I feel like I'm talking to myself.. But thats ok, hoping someone stumbles across this and tells me the one thing I am missing.
Anyways.. Found the ASD relay in a cluster of 4 behind the PCM. They all looked the same including the starter relay. So, I switched the ASD relay with the starter relay and still no spark, but the starter worked so I know the relay is good. I need help.. How do I know if the fuel pump is coming on? |
You could run a fuel pressure test using a pressure gauge and the necessary fittings. You could get a rough idea if the fuel pump is working by relieving all the fuel line pressure and then re-connecting the system, turning on the key and listening for the pump to come on for a couple of seconds to build pressure back up. It won't tell you if the pressure is high enough to work properly though. I don't think there is any code for low fuel pressure, so if that's the problem, it won't show up as an OBD reading.
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Originally Posted by dcotter0579
(Post 42365)
You could run a fuel pressure test using a pressure gauge and the necessary fittings. You could get a rough idea if the fuel pump is working by relieving all the fuel line pressure and then re-connecting the system, turning on the key and listening for the pump to come on for a couple of seconds to build pressure back up. It won't tell you if the pressure is high enough to work properly though. I don't think there is any code for low fuel pressure, so if that's the problem, it won't show up as an OBD reading.
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If your cam/crank sensors are not in sync you will get no fire. Check your timing belt. Does it sound funny when you crank it over?
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Originally Posted by TNtech
(Post 42416)
If your cam/crank sensors are not in sync you will get no fire. Check your timing belt. Does it sound funny when you crank it over?
When you say cam/crank sensors in sync how do I know if they are or aren't and how would I fix that? I honestly didn't think about the timing belt at all.. I'll check that for sure. |
You have to read the cam/crank signals sync on a scan tool. Funny as in sounds more like an air compressor than an engine turning over.
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