99 sebring 2.5 missing when hot
 

Hello, I just bought a 99 sebring with a 2.5. the car runs awesome when you 1st start driving it and thin when it warms up it will start missing and sometimes will die when stopped in gear, but when driving it runs fine. only when I stop.. it seems like if i keep it above 2000 there is no miss. there is a check engine light and it was a multiple cylinder misfire. (I'll find the code number tomorrow)
the previous said he changed
plugs
wires
cap, rotor
I did a search and didn't find my answer
any help would be awesome

the code I'm getting is PO300, random misfire

Might be a vacuum leak.

Since you just bought the car, start with the basics. Take a look at the spark plugs and replace if they are worn or damaged. Check the distributor cap, replace the rotor and spark plug wires. Check all of the vacuum hoses for any signs of wear or damage and replace as necessary. Probably a good idea to replace the EGR valve and air filter too. None of these items are expensive and you may well solve the problem. Not really related, but I would clean and inspect the battery connections since your under the hood anyway (the battery is located in front of the left front wheel and can be accessed through the wheel well). If it's still missing then you may have to visit a repair shop to have the problem diagnosed.

ok, I have done a tune up. new plugs, wires, cap rotor, egr cleaned the air filter new upper manifold gasket. also checked again for air leaks and it is still missing and wanting to stall (but only every once in a wile) sone times it runs awesome and there other times it runs very poorly. the only code i get is P0300.
any other Ideas.

today I just picked my son up from the bus stop and the car it seems to be getting worse. I almost didn't make it home. it was acting like it was running out of gas and wanting to die and back firing in the intake, so when i got it home I took off the air filter tube and gave it some gas (as it is sputtering) I sprayed carb cleaner in the intake and it did not change a bit. (so now I know it is not a fuel problem) the only 2 things I can think of now is the coil or the crank sensor.
how do I test them to see if there bad?

Chapter 5 of the Haynes manual for your car has a good discussion of how to check the coil which is built into the distributor. Chapter 6 discusses the crank sensor along with a lot of other things. The book will set you back about $25 and could save you many times that.

well I changed the crank sensor today, and it's doing the same thing :confused: runs awesome for 30 min to a hour thin it starts missing at 1st thin it starts bogging and back firing in the intake. but if you let off the gas it will idle ok . now it's just when you give it gas:confused:
I have a friend that has a book. so I'll test the coil tomorrow
thanks

Bad news, my friend cant find his book and no parts store has one in stock. is there a online book?
I would really like to get this car going

Check this out:

http://www.autorepairmanuals.biz/sit...uct/1563926547

You can buy subscriptions for a week or a month or a year of access to a manual if you search on line, but you'll pay more for a month of on-line access than you will for the hard copy, which you can take out to the garage with you and have handy.

cam sensor
 

I'd replace the cam sensor or distributor anyway. I know it's money but sometimes components like that can act up when hot when they are going bad. The cam sensor is the main culprit in most ignition failures on this particular car, so it may be a smart thing to just consider a replacement sensor as part of a tune-up. Beck-Arney and Cardone Select make high quality distributors at much lower price than the dealer. Also check for oil pooling around the plugs. If that's the case install new valve cover gaskets and o-ring seals. I think if a lot of oil pools around the plugs it makes it a lot harder on ignition components (by making a slight short) and may be the cause of a few cases where people had to change the cam and crank sensors after a short while.
The Egr may be the most likely thing. I comes into play when the engine is warm. It will not necessarily throw a code.

ok guys, car is still acting up. since my last post I put new distributor, cap, plugs, wires, egr, fuel filter and cleaned all the grounds. and I'm still getting a code p0300
what to do next??

HAs anyone checked fuel pressure??????

I don't have the adapter to check the fuel pressure.

Could be an egr. If it does not seat closed all the way then that will give you a bad idle. But usually it will give drivability problems by not opening up. When the engine is cold the egr will stay closed. It's supposed to work when the engine warms up. Another thing could be a timing belt that jumped just one tooth. I had that happen and the adaptable engine management system sometimes compensated for it well and other times didn't You might want to at least check the upper right cam gear and the crank to see if they line up. That rear cover is a pain to get off. I cut an oval hole in that rear upper cover so I can check the rear cam timing mark easy anytime I want to.

I put a new EGR in it. I'll check my timing on my next day off

I checked the timing and everything was dead on. please guys I need your help this car is driving me crazy and I'm about to take it to the crusher..

UPDATE!!
fuel pressure is 53lb
vacuum is at 13lb
the car is doing a little better today. it just wants to hesitate on take off. I pump the gas as soon as I get the R's up it goes away and runs fine. it's just when you stop at a light and let it set for a min.
Steve

I had the same exact problem you have been having, except my car was having problems starting in the morning, along with the same exact things yours was doing. I mean you were describing my car to a "T". I changed the distributor and it runs great now. I noticed the bottom of the rotor of the distributor i took out (which was a rebuild) had been rubbing on the coil. Maybe look at the rotor? I don't know if you got a new distributor or a rebuild, but it may be worth looking into, if you still have your reciept they may exchange it, and remember don't get any electrical components from autozone, I personally have never had any luck with anything electrical related from them.

I have swapped out 3 distributors in my car and the last one I got seems to be the best one out the 3. I can drive the car now with no problems other thin the hesitation on take off. (pump the gas and it goes away) I even took it out of town last week. when the weather lets off a little I'm going to check the timing marks to see if it has jumped a tooth :eek:

UPDATE FIXED!!
well after a lot of parts and time I got it running good again. between the 4 distributors and 3 caps. I put a new distributor and cap into it and the problem went away.
thanks everyone for your help,
Steve