I'm hoping someone can help me. I installed a new stereo in my 1999 Sebring JX. I may have inadvertently shorted out the power lines while soldering on a new harness. Stereo works fine; all dash lights work. However, when I went to start the engine, it started and ran for a couple of seconds, then died. Repeated once more and died. Now the engine will not crank at all (not even a click). Battery is fully charged. I've checked all fuses and relays. On the starter relay plug, pin 85 (relay coil ground) has no continuity to ground (which it should if the neutral safety switch is in park and working). When I ground pin 85 with the starter relay in place, the engine will crank with the key, but will not start. When I turn on the ignition, I can hear the fuel pump activate. I have a simple OBDII scanner; there are no codes stored.
Did I potentially kill my PCU if/when I shorted out a wire on the radio harness? Any other suggestions?

 

The security system appears to be preventing the engine from starting. If an unrecognized/unprogramed key is used to start the vehicle, the first couple of times the engine will run for a few seconds and quit. After 2 consecutive attempts, the 3 attempt will trigger the the security system and prevent the engine from cranking. A solid lit red dot in the instrument cluster when attempting to start the engine will confirm this.

It is possible the SKIM security module (detects the key) was damaged or 'forgot' the programmed keys.

Suggest posting on 'allpar.com' as there are a number of chrysler techs that should be able to advise you how to proceed.

 

Thanks for replying! Unfortunately, it can't be my problem as the car isn't equipped with that option. It just takes an old-fashioned metal key (no chip or fob).

 

send me your vin ill look to see if it does have SKIM or not. and why would you be soldering anything that has power still on it?

 

VIN: 3C3EL45H3XT549471
As far as why I did it, I believe Forrest's Moma said it best: Stupid is as stupid does!
Thank you!

 

Yes you have a skim it will be a gray key thats the chip. I would make sure you have power on both sides of all fuses like number 6 in the junction block inside

 

Thank you for looking up my VIN. This is now super perplexing, as I have always just had all metal keys. I bought it in 2000 when the car was about 6 months old. It was a previous daily rental. Is it possible that I've somehow activated the long dormant skim? I don't recall ever seeing a VTSS lamp on the dash. As I understand it, VTSS was an option in 1999. Where does that reside? In the body control module? I'm just trying to figure out where to go from here.
I greatly appreciate your time answering my questions!

 

Ok, a bit of a stretch here. Is it possible the previous owner buried a chip key in the dash/steering column so that a 'cheap' non-chip key would start the engine? Might it be you dislodged the 'hidden' chip key while rewiring/tugging on the harness and it is no longer close enough to the SKIM antenna to be detected?

A workaround with after-market remote starts was to bury a chip key near the SKIM antenna so the remote start module would be able to start the engine when a key was not physically present in the ignition switch so this is common enough. Might it be the rental company used this technique to keep from buying/programming an expensive chip key when the renter inevitable 'lost' the key (back in the day two chip keys were needed to program a third - with only one key dealer service was required)?

 

did you check all the fuses to see if they have power on both sides of the fuse?

 

I was just able to check. The only fuse in the the engine box that does not have 12.4V on both sides is fuse #1: downstream oxy sen (no voltage on either side).
I have replaced the auto shutdown relay with a new one. There is voltage at both pins 30 and 86 of the ASR.