Car jerks, then cruise control light comes on and off
Something is wrong with my car. I have a 2004 Sebring, and after the car gets warm, it will jerk suddenly, the speedometer drops to 0, then back up to speed and at the same time the cruise control light will go on, then off after a few seconds. The check engine light is not on, and the computer reports no error codes. Any advice?
The cruise control is operated by the car's computer. It takes information from the output sensor on the transmission and uses that to control the throttle.
The speedometer operation takes information from the same sensor on the transmission, passes it to the engine computer which sends it to the body computer for display on the instrument panel.
Common to both of these is the output speed sensor and the engine computer. Frankly, the chances of it being the speed sensor are not large, but it's a cheap and easy repair you could try. If that doesn't cure the problem, and it probably won't, you're looking at replacing the engine computer.
The computer may have a cracked solder joint in it someplace that spreads apart when it gets warm.
Search the web for services that will exchange your computer for a remanufactured replacement for a couple hundred bucks. Or go to the dealer and pay well over a grand.
Or live with the problem.
The speedometer operation takes information from the same sensor on the transmission, passes it to the engine computer which sends it to the body computer for display on the instrument panel.
Common to both of these is the output speed sensor and the engine computer. Frankly, the chances of it being the speed sensor are not large, but it's a cheap and easy repair you could try. If that doesn't cure the problem, and it probably won't, you're looking at replacing the engine computer.
The computer may have a cracked solder joint in it someplace that spreads apart when it gets warm.
Search the web for services that will exchange your computer for a remanufactured replacement for a couple hundred bucks. Or go to the dealer and pay well over a grand.
Or live with the problem.
Thanks, dcotter0579. I think you are right on the PCM.
I am thinking of a bad cap or solder joint in the PCM because the condition worsens as I drive in this 108 degree Texas heat and I can hear some coil(s) whining from the PCM even long after turning the car off. I had to replace the PCM once about 5 years ago and this is a dealer refurb, so not too surprising I guess considering. I want to remove the PCM and get into it to check the solder joints, etc. Is this possible? I haven't looked in-depth at the box, but it looked like it is sealed up pretty good. Do you know if it's possible to get inside the PCM with normal tools? I was planning on trying to do that this weekend.
I see you're from the Det area- I'm from GR originally- I'll be at the Rangers/Tigers game tonight rooting for the Tigs!
I am thinking of a bad cap or solder joint in the PCM because the condition worsens as I drive in this 108 degree Texas heat and I can hear some coil(s) whining from the PCM even long after turning the car off. I had to replace the PCM once about 5 years ago and this is a dealer refurb, so not too surprising I guess considering. I want to remove the PCM and get into it to check the solder joints, etc. Is this possible? I haven't looked in-depth at the box, but it looked like it is sealed up pretty good. Do you know if it's possible to get inside the PCM with normal tools? I was planning on trying to do that this weekend.
I see you're from the Det area- I'm from GR originally- I'll be at the Rangers/Tigers game tonight rooting for the Tigs!
hey, Go Tigs!
You know your abilities better than anybody. If you are experienced in working on automotive computers, have at it. If not, leave it up to the pros. It's not a job for the average DIYer.
You know your abilities better than anybody. If you are experienced in working on automotive computers, have at it. If not, leave it up to the pros. It's not a job for the average DIYer.
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