Dashboard lights not working
#11
04-21-2012, 01:11 AM
Chm... Interesting... A cluster with some inverter ? Then it must be a CCFL lamp illuminating everything. Pity I don't have the schematics... But if that is CCFL (the same as in BMW "Angel eyes") then you should look for a small step up transformer. Examples:
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/280...ransformer.jpg
They are small, from 10 x 10 mm to 30 x 30 mm and might be on the other side of PCB. If you found that transformer and CCFL lamp - great
Look around on the PCB, you should find some capacitors - they are the main thing of breakdown. On the low side (12 V) they are in the switching mode, same as in computer motherboard on CPU power line, so they heat and dry and loose capacity. Then the inverter is not working. Might even burn the fuse and some diodes. Try to replace all those caps (shouldn't be a lot - 2 or 3) and maybe it will help. I don't know your skills in electronics, but in fact there is nothing difficult, especially if you have some devices to measure voltage and caps. If you decide to replace caps - they should be the same capacitance, same voltage (could be higher but the size will be higher also, might not fit), and caps should be LOW ESR. ESR is critical parameter in switching applications. Post your photos of dash, PCB both sides, maybe I could tell more. Now its just guessing from crystal ball...
CCFL:
Cold cathode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/280...ransformer.jpg
They are small, from 10 x 10 mm to 30 x 30 mm and might be on the other side of PCB. If you found that transformer and CCFL lamp - great
Look around on the PCB, you should find some capacitors - they are the main thing of breakdown. On the low side (12 V) they are in the switching mode, same as in computer motherboard on CPU power line, so they heat and dry and loose capacity. Then the inverter is not working. Might even burn the fuse and some diodes. Try to replace all those caps (shouldn't be a lot - 2 or 3) and maybe it will help. I don't know your skills in electronics, but in fact there is nothing difficult, especially if you have some devices to measure voltage and caps. If you decide to replace caps - they should be the same capacitance, same voltage (could be higher but the size will be higher also, might not fit), and caps should be LOW ESR. ESR is critical parameter in switching applications. Post your photos of dash, PCB both sides, maybe I could tell more. Now its just guessing from crystal ball...CCFL:
Cold cathode - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
#12
04-21-2012, 12:41 PM
Sometimes I think the engineers must be bored and are just seeing how exotic they can build something.
#14
02-26-2013, 03:32 PM
After much research I found and ordered what appears to the correct EL inverter which powers the back lighting for 1997-2004 Chrysler Sebring and C 300 white instrument cluster's back lighting. If it doesn't work I will repost a correction if no correction..... it worked! I found it at www.glowhut.com for $9.00 plus $5.00 shipping. It is listed as a 12 volt electroluminescent inverter for A6 EL panel. According to Dcotter0579's post above it will take a few plastic trim tools and some knowledge in the Haynes 25040 manul to remove the cluster.
dcotter0579
Senior Member
2002 Chrysler Sebring
My Garage Join Date: May 2008
Location: Detroit suburb
Posts: 2,588
Basically, you must remove all the trim panels around the cluster. This involves taking off almost every trim panel on the dashboard. You'll need a set of plastic trim tools. Then, once you have burrowed down to the cluster itself, you unscrew the screws holding it and pull it out, disconnecting it from the plug that powers it. The Haynes manual (#25040) describes the process in chapters 11 and 12 reasonably well.
With the proper tools and some patience, you can do it.
dcotter0579
Senior Member
2002 Chrysler Sebring
My Garage Join Date: May 2008
Location: Detroit suburb
Posts: 2,588
Basically, you must remove all the trim panels around the cluster. This involves taking off almost every trim panel on the dashboard. You'll need a set of plastic trim tools. Then, once you have burrowed down to the cluster itself, you unscrew the screws holding it and pull it out, disconnecting it from the plug that powers it. The Haynes manual (#25040) describes the process in chapters 11 and 12 reasonably well.
With the proper tools and some patience, you can do it.
#16
03-29-2013, 05:55 PM
12 volt electroluminescent A6 inverter Worked Great!
It worked great ! (The 12 volt electroluminescent inverter for A6 EL panel), I listed above and bought from www.glowhut.com for $9.00 plus $5.00 shipping), was a perfect replacement for the original instrument cluster's inverter ( original is marked 04813406AA REV. AA EMD MEX 004403) used inside the 2001 Chrysler Sebring convertable'S instrument cluster.
NOTE: the new inverter comes with a connecter that looks similar to the original inverters connector, but it is on the wrong pair of wires. It's a black connector and is on the new inverter's 160VAC black output wires; so cut it off and scrap it. Then cut the original inverter's tan 12VCD input connector with the black and orage wires off of the old inverter and solder them onto the new inverters red and black 12VDC input wires. Solder black to black and red to orange. The new inverters output wires are black and output approx 160 VAC. So solder them to the yellow wires cut off the original inverters output that go into the instrument cluster's electroluminescent glow wires. Since the inverters output is A/C it doesn't matter which black wire goes to which yellow wire. You can test it in a dimly lit room with a 12V battery. My $860 Instrument cluster is fixed for $14. You will have to open the Instrument cluster using torqe bits to get at the inverter inside the cluster after removal from the car.
NOTE: the new inverter comes with a connecter that looks similar to the original inverters connector, but it is on the wrong pair of wires. It's a black connector and is on the new inverter's 160VAC black output wires; so cut it off and scrap it. Then cut the original inverter's tan 12VCD input connector with the black and orage wires off of the old inverter and solder them onto the new inverters red and black 12VDC input wires. Solder black to black and red to orange. The new inverters output wires are black and output approx 160 VAC. So solder them to the yellow wires cut off the original inverters output that go into the instrument cluster's electroluminescent glow wires. Since the inverters output is A/C it doesn't matter which black wire goes to which yellow wire. You can test it in a dimly lit room with a 12V battery. My $860 Instrument cluster is fixed for $14. You will have to open the Instrument cluster using torqe bits to get at the inverter inside the cluster after removal from the car.
#18
01-26-2014, 02:59 PM
Thanks a lot. Just followed your instructions and it worked great. Would have never have figured it out without this post!
#20
01-30-2014, 11:08 AM
Great...My backlight are still running great as well
Glad it work for you as well. Ya a $14 fix beats a new $860 instrument cluster any day. Thanks for the kudo's. Glad it helped you out. Once you wire up and connect the replacement inverter as I described earlier it works like a charm. Were all in this together, brother! Take the time to "pay in Forward" as they say. One random act of kindness a day can change your world.
Sixhackers (Bill)
Sixhackers (Bill)