Is hub assembly hard to change on 2005 sebring?
#1
Is hub assembly hard to change on 2005 sebring?
A friend of mine has a 2005 Dodge Stratus. I didn't want to register on a new forum for one question so I'm assuming that anything that applies to the Sebring would apply to the Stratus?
I believe a wheel bearing is going bad. It has a loud rumbling noise that gets louder the faster the car goes. It holds straight in the road and there's no abnormal wearing on the tires.
We believe it's coming from the front right (passenger) side. Are there any special tools needed in replacing the hub assembly? Does anyone know what size socket is needed? Any other tips to offer?
Thanks.
I believe a wheel bearing is going bad. It has a loud rumbling noise that gets louder the faster the car goes. It holds straight in the road and there's no abnormal wearing on the tires.
We believe it's coming from the front right (passenger) side. Are there any special tools needed in replacing the hub assembly? Does anyone know what size socket is needed? Any other tips to offer?
Thanks.
#2
Replacing hub
I just did mine last night on a 2003 Sebring. If the 2005 is anything like it there are not many tools needed beyond what you need to do a brake job. You will need a T10 socket (available at most auto parts stores) and a 3/8 inch 18 inch pivoting breaker bar ( I got mine at Harbor Freight for $10). I used a hammer to hit the breaker bar to break the nut free since there is not a lot of room to leverage. You will need a 1.25 inch socket to take the CV axle nut off with and a 6 inch puller (that you can rent for free at Autozone) to break the hub free of the CV axle. You should buy a new axle nut every time. That is all the tools I used to do it.
#3
A couple of helpful hints too
You will need to unbolt the brake caliper and support it. I used bailing wire attached to the control arm to hold it up.
Remove the caliper bracket (a number 18 standard depth socket). Remove the rotor.
You do not need to disconnect the ball joints. I did unbolt the idler arm from its connection to make it easier to swing the breaker bar. I think it will take a number 9 wrench and an 18mm wrench to do that.
Use the T10 socket and breaker bar to remove the three bolts holding the hub on. A socket wrench has too wide of head to get good alignment on the head.
Use the 1.25 inch socket to remove the axle spindle nut.
Use the puller to pull the hub off the axle. You really only need to break it free from the rust that is common on these. Then you can pull it by hand the rest of the way.
That's it. Just put the hub bolts on and axle nut ( don't forget to torque them to spec). and idler arm and the rat is child's play.
Remove the caliper bracket (a number 18 standard depth socket). Remove the rotor.
You do not need to disconnect the ball joints. I did unbolt the idler arm from its connection to make it easier to swing the breaker bar. I think it will take a number 9 wrench and an 18mm wrench to do that.
Use the T10 socket and breaker bar to remove the three bolts holding the hub on. A socket wrench has too wide of head to get good alignment on the head.
Use the 1.25 inch socket to remove the axle spindle nut.
Use the puller to pull the hub off the axle. You really only need to break it free from the rust that is common on these. Then you can pull it by hand the rest of the way.
That's it. Just put the hub bolts on and axle nut ( don't forget to torque them to spec). and idler arm and the rat is child's play.
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bumu
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02-18-2007 01:44 PM